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rbwen

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Posts posted by rbwen

    leavenworth accident?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    A little hard to follow your post but I think the 2-pitch bolted slab you're referring to is Cocaine Connection, 5.7. I've crossed over to R & D at the obvious ledge at the top of the second pitch (there's some webbing and I think a rap ring there) and also a bit higher up under the obvious roof with the great crack at the base for making a natural anchor.

     

    Climbing is inherently dangerous, that's why that is printed in the beginning of any guidebook. Accidents happen to all of us. The climbing is easy on the route but there are many variables that can come into play even on an easy route (experience of climber, weather, pro placement, condition of route, number of parties, etc...) Don't blame the route.

     

    rbwen

     

    <

    name of the route and where excatly it's ment to cross over to r&d (well it did at least when i climbed it lol) the lowest slab 2 pitch bolted left side of wall and then you come to a ledge at the tope of the second pitch over that and then traverse over to r&d is this a route or did i just get lost? and is r&d really that dangerous? it seemed perfectly fine to me when i was up there no problems and not very much to be sketch about but from reading some of these i'm wondering.......>>

    leavenworth accident?

    in Climber's Board

    leavenworth accident?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    This from today's Wenatchee World...

     

    http://www.wenworld.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20070702/NEWS04/707020350/1001

     

    Rock climbing accident sends one to hospital

     

    Posted July 02, 2007

    LEAVENWORTH -- A 60-year-old man rock climbing Icicle Buttress near Leavenworth fell about 14 feet Saturday afternoon, according to Chelan County Sheriff Mike Harum.

     

    Richard Kennedy of Olympia was listed in satisfactory condition this morning at Central Washington Hospital. According to Harum, Kennedy may have suffered a broken ankle and rib injuries.

     

    Technical climbers were able to reach the man within two hours after the fall was reported at 3:09 p.m., with the man on a ledge about 100 feet from the top of the Icicle Buttress rock formation.

     

    Rescuers began lowering the man down the rock formation at about 6:20 p.m., and by 7:16 p.m. the man was headed to the hospital. Harum said rescuers had to lower him about 800 feet.

     

    The man fell after not affixing rope to an anchor point on the formation, though an upper anchor was roped to the formation elsewhere, keeping the man from tumbling farther down, Harum said.

     

    Harum said climbers from the sheriff's office High Angle Rope Rescue Team and the volunteer Chelan County Mountain Rescue groups helped the injured man down the formation.

     

    -- Jaime Adame, World staff

     

    rbwen

    quick question

    in Spray

    Posted

    You can also get them at the 76 Station at Icicle Junction...they might open earlier.

     

    - Wenatchee area: Northwest Forest passes are available at Arlberg Sports Inc., Hooked on Toys, and Mountain Air Gear.

    - Lake Wenatchee area: Passes are available at Cole's Corner Market (Shell station), Parkside Grocery, and Plain Hardware.

    - Leavenworth area: In Leavenworth passes are available at Der Sportsman, Icicle Quik Stop 76 gas station, Leavenworth Mountain Sports, Sleeping Lady Mountain Retreat Gift Shop, Pioneer Market in Cashmere, and Ingalls Creek Convenience Center & Lodging at 3057 US Highway 97

     

    rb

    Poison Ivy/Oak? in Wash Pass and/or Leavenworth?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I got it last year at Peshastin Pinnacles right about the end of June climbing Martian Diagonal, so I'm not sure if it was somewhere on the route or at the base. Then went up to Skaha and spent a miserable week climbing in 105 degree temps and it was all I could do to not scratch because it felt SO GOOD. What feels really good, almost orgasmic, is to get in the shower under hot, hot water and let it stream all over the poison oak. Now don't go rushing out to get poison oak just so you can experience this high. But, damn, it felt good.

     

    I used Tec-Nu on it and also another product we bought at Safeway to stop the spreading but it was too late and I just had to endure it until it went away.

    Auto Belay Cost? Options?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I do realize the need for someone to be familiar with belaying, and see the need to teach it to the youngsters, but the people who sign the insurance liability forms don't.

     

    When I refer to auto-belay I'm referring to the setups you see on the portable rock walls.

     

    rbwen

    Feathers Accident

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    From today's Wenatchee World

     

    Ellensburg teen suffers serious injuries in rock climbing accident

     

    Posted May 11, 2007

    George -- An 18-year-old Ellensburg man fell from a cliff about 15 feet onto a rocky surface Thursday night, suffering serious injuries, a Grant County Fire District 3 official said.

     

    Battalion Chief Tony Leibelt said the teen was free climbing at about 8 p.m. in the Feathers Rock climbing area southwest of George.

     

    Leibelt said friends of the teen described him falling about 15 feet.

     

    The teen was transported to Samaritan Hospital in Moses Lake in stable but serious condition, Leibelt said. He said the teen did not appear to suffer a head injury.

     

    Careno Crag Access

    in Access Issues

    Posted

    We climbed at Poison Ivy Crack last year and met the landowner and his son. He was very friendly and we asked him about access across his property because of its proximity to the crags. His reponse was something like, "How are you guys going to climb the routes if you can't get there?" He basically gave permission to cross his property to get up there.

     

    I've seen the sign he put up this year "...at own risk" and I'm pretty sure it's in response to climbers accessing his property.

     

    rbwen

    R & D start?

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    It starts on the left side of the buttress (not on the face) about 100 yards up the small canyon. Look for the slabby two-pitch 5.7 called Cocaine Connection that starts in a small roof/corner and then go uphill another 50 yards to the left.

     

    rbwen

    Veteran's Club Climb Grades?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    We climbed two routes at Veteran's Club in the Icicle on Saturday that aren't in Kramer's book and wondered what the grades (and names?) might be. Going left to right they were the second and third climbs on the wall. The second climb started in a fist-sized double crack that trended left and up to a thin face and another wider crack about 3/4 of the way up. The third climb from the left started on an arete, moving left to small face features, then up onto a slab to the shared anchors with climb #2. My friend who climbed them thought they were 10c or a bit harder. These are the two climbs immediately left of Left Cheek (10a).

     

    Any ideas?

     

    Thanks! That's a fun wall if you've never been up there. An 8, a 9+, and a 10a (plus three other 10+ climbs). Sorta one-move wonders and a bit short but fun nonetheless on good, gritty rock.

     

    rbwen

    APPLE RANT

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    I work in the Tech dept. in a school district and we have older eMacs (less than three years old) and the logic boards are all starting to go. Ours are under warranty though so we just have to swap them out. Does happen on all computers though.

    Peshastin

    in Access Issues

    Posted

    Here's what I found from the website:

     

    "Scheduled Opening: 3/16/2007 *Snow conditions may influence reopening date"

     

    I called the parks department, (509) 664-6373, and their message said it was open. It also said some of the trails had been washed out from the winter but that they were passable.

     

    There's no snow there now. Happy climbing! Give a quick TR when you get back to let us with mending bodies know how it is.

     

    rbwen

    Orthopedic Surgeon (knee) Recommendations

    in Fitness and Nutrition Forum

    Posted

    I had mine done by Dr. Lawrence Holland at Swedish and I highly recommend him.

     

    http://www.swedish.org/11762.cfm

     

    I went the patellar tendon route because I asked him what he would do for a pro athlete or a family member. It took a few months longer in rehab but I think it's stronger (no chance of denial as in an allograft (cadaver) and not made of hamstring strips). Plus the patellar tendon will grow back, the hamstring won't.

     

    PM me if you want further details.

     

    Also, lots of discussion on the subject here:

     

    http://factotem.org/cgi-bin/kneebbs.pl

     

    rbwen

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