InspectorGadget

Dave, In tacoma you might try Tacoma Screw. They are just northwest of the I-5 / Hwy 16 interchange. I do not know the street. They are on the web. I've gotten swaging materials there before. The crimpers are expensive. Ken

Do you still have the Highlite? Thanks. Ken

I have an old Centurion Dave Scott model in my attic that you can have. I forget it if it is a 54cm or 56cm. If I recall correctly it has most of the parts still on it (Shimano 105).

For an all-day affair, you certainly have what would seem to be the right amount of gear, nothing extraneous. I carry about the same thing. The belay mittens and parka depend on the conditions and everyone is different. Since this amount of kit isn't really a burden weight-wise the only problem you may be encountering is time. If you arrive at the belay, tie into the power point, pass the pro to the leader, and then put on your jacket and mittens before putting the leader on belay you are probably wasting a little time that you could save. After you tie in and pass the pro, clip your pack into the belay gear. Set the leader on an auto-block so he can begin moving out and only then begin to satisfy the clothing, food, water issues. The leader is now on belay and you are simply minding the rope, feeding slack, and tracking his/her progress. Your hands are mostly free to take care of your needs at the belay. If you give this a swing next time you're out you may just find it helpful. Ken

Ben, By Sorak San I take it to mean that you are going to the northeast side of the country. There is also a Sorak just north of Seoul if I recall correctly. Many of the ranges around Seoul have a version of Via Ferrata with bolted ladders and cables. I have to second Colin's warning about Korean climbers in general (and I have met quite a few who are an exception to this). I witnessed far too many occassions of climbing practices that we consider far too dangerous for our western tastes. In one instance I watched a party abseiling a route and taking very long bounds. One "climber" bounded right onto the top of a sign proclaiming the summit of the mountain we were on. He broke his back and was carried down the mountain on a gurney. I believe that the majority of the climbing shops in Seoul were in Namdemoon (sp?) market. Only one in Uijongbu, none north of that. Prices there are excellent. Use a credit card and get the best exchange rate for the day. I never did make it out to the east side, although I wish I had. The spires out there look spectacular. Best of luck and enjoy your trip. Ken

Update to the gear closet, which will be temporarily closed until 3 January due to vacation to Moab/Ouray/Tetons. Thanks so far for the interest. Ken

ken4ord, Any chance you found the #2 camalot that I dropped on High E 10 years ago? That was the first climb that I seconded and I could have sworn the biner had clipped to the shoulder sling I was wearing. As a college student at the time it was a very expensive "oops." I wish the lawyers had been around when I was there so I could have made the booty sweep. Ken

In my opinion, any military gear you may find is usually well behind the technology curve (like fabrics and such). The modular bag for instance is very heavy and you really need all three pieces to stay warm at times. I needed to use the green bag in combo with the black bag and goretex bivy last December in northern Iraq (avergae temp 25-35 degrees). In addition the "new" intermediate gear is nothing more than heavy weight fleece (jacket and bibs), which you cannot wear while doing any type of activity, least you sweat to death. The best thing going currently is the silk-weight underwear, which is really like Patagonia's silkweight. Since I get this kit for free I'm not complaining, but if I were spending my hard-earned dollar on it I would go commercial everytime. Keep in mind that military gear is designed to be used by people who normally do not take the same care with it that they would if they were buying it themselves. Soldiers are able to make "bomb-proof" gear self destruct. Ken

Time to clean out the gear closet. I have entirely too much stuff. All prices are negotiable and pictures are available. Can ship or make available for pick-up. PM if interested. (Sold) Backpack: North Face Stamina 70 (4300 cu), size large, $80 Backpack: North Face Patrol (2750 cu), size large, $75 Ice Screws: 3 x Black Diamond Express, new, 22cm, $38 each Ice Screws: 2 x Grivel 360, 1 new, 1 used, 22cm, $40 and $30 respectively Petzl Ecrin Roc Helmet, excellent condition, size large, $40 ( Sold ) Climb Axe helmet, excellent condition, size large, $15 Black Diamond Raven, excellent condition, 70cm, $50 (slider leash included) DMM Prowire carabiners, new, 8 total, $9 each DMM Wirelock carabiners, new, 7 total, $8 each ( Sold ) Intuition thermofit liners for mountaineering boots, several heatings left, size 10, $30 La Sportiva Evolution (I think that’s the name) climbing shoes, excellent condition, size 43.5, $20 La Sportiva Taos, new resole by Dave Page in Seattle, size 42, $35 Grivel G12 Newmatic crampons with old style anti-bot, great condition, $80 Black Diamond tool holster (1), new, $5 Granite Gear nylon compression sacks, like new: (1) Green, large, $15 (2) Red, extra small, $10 each Thanks, Ken

Joel, Don't sweat it too much. This time last year I was in Kuwait waiting to leave for Samarra, where we spent Christmas. As for the cold, be thankful you are not further north in say, Mosul, where it gets really cold. I just came back at the end of October and have found that the climbs have not gone anywhere. They'll still be here when you get back. Sounds like you may want to see the chaplain regarding your self-flagellation. Ken