OldManRock

Jeff Thomas has a higher prioity book project going right now, but is still working on a new version of his guide kinda in the background - You can't keep a good writer down.

If you want to write a guide book - Be prepared to have everybody who was asked for info, seen requests for info and did not respond, who knew somebody was writing one but did not want anybody to know thier special place, etc be your worst critic when it appears in print - "I did the first of that route", "Its a lower grade than that", The worst route description I have ever seen" - Over a beer or two, Nick Dodge, Jeff Thomas, and Greg Orton have told me stories of how people seem only be able to spot errors after the fact.

I wondered why my beard had got so long, and I couldn't afford the cheap wine I drink - But since the Bauman's state I started climbing when the rock was still hot, I am getting slower - I best go sharpen up the triconie nails on my boots.

With help from NOLDs I was able to view the photo - I notice the name under the picture was Acker_Rock_o36 - Its not - This is Eagle Rock - Old Man and Old Woman are off to the right up river.

Hi Jim - If its a bunch of old army pitons, some hemp rope and slings, a few nuts with threads filed out, I sure its mine. When you send it back why don't you toss in one of those cam thingys - I always wanted to see what they look like.....

Opedilldock Pass north of the North Sister on the PCT

For some reason the photo will not appear for me - Damn computer - If I could see it, I'm sure I could put a name on it - This was my stomping ground back in the 50's/60's when I started climbing - So please send it again...

A couple things - The McLoughlin Memorial is a NNE ridge route - Not the North Face which as far as I know has never been done - The last bit of overhanging loose blocks makes a bold statement - Maybe its the last great problem - I also feel that if someone has a picture of the ridge taken from the ridge off to the northeast or from an airplane which could be use to mark the various ways that have used to top out at the normal lunch ledge below the summit - I know that Mark and friends had tried to climb via a route that was more to the east on a couple of the trips they made down to Thielson - When Bob, Tom, and I climbed we went up the first real buttress as we came around from the PCT on the northside.

Well here I go again - Reading comments about the Mclaughin Memorial route on Thielson tells a lot about the changes in climbing from the 60's to now - When we made the 1st ascent, we did not have a route description, no sticky rubber boots, no nuts (unless you had time to file out the threads of some regular nuts), and we did not leave any trace of our passing through. I do not remember either Bob or Tom placing many (if any) pitons except for sure as an anchor before Bob lead the crux pitch - I was the sherpa with the pack and they alternated the lead - One place for sure that was protected, was the anchor for the belay of Bob as he lead the crux, a 40 foot vertical cinder pitch which had no place for protection - It was a awesome lead - I will agree the final gully is kinda scary with its vertical scree - I wish now that we had taken a can of paint to mark the route as I have been chastised for the bad route description a couple of times - I think I was too gripped to remember as I was climbing.

Hi - I just found this site and seen the mention of the winter Three Sisters climbs - As a particpant of that trip I thought some information about it would be of intrest - The whole trip was done on skis - No sleds The packs were damn heavy - We packed for 10 day trip to allow for weather - Winter camping and climbing equiptment added a lot of extra crap - First day to Green Lakes camp - 2nd day climbed Broken Top - 3rd day South Sister - 4th day to Chambers Lake area to camp and rest/repair - 5th day spent enjoying the area and contiued rest - 6th day over to Hayden Glacier and up and through the notch - Camped on the flat area beyond - The other 3 decided to dash up the Middle while I was appointed camp cook - The next day while I soloed the Middle, they made an attempt on the North - They were stopped at the base of the summit pinnacle due to the 27 types of snow and ice which made climbing very dangerous - They decided to return to camp and we packed up and headed down - The ski down was awesome - When we reached White Branch we followed the creek down to where it was close to Deadhorse Grade on Mckenzie Highway - Then it was just follow the tips of our skis to White Branch camp area where a friend picked us up for the trip home. We felt even though we had not climbed the North the trip was a great sucess.