Kimmo
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Posts posted by Kimmo
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I've never been on a 5.15, but once the 9a grade is reached it seems that hard boulder moves are always involved, rather than the pure fitness that can often comprise low and mid 5.14's. By pure fitness, I mean there are consistent moves in the V7 to V8 range, maybe a bit harder, to V9 or V10 if it's a bouldery line, but routes 9a (and harder I would guess) usually have a crux or multiple cruxes in the V11 and above range.
Siegrist said Era Vella (9a, although controversial) didn't have anything harder than V7. And it sounds like it even has some rests. I have a vague memory of the big Austrian dude saying he thought Action Direct had V7 max individual moves.
I'd think Eiter would send a consensus 15a first, because of her free time and availability of such routes in her hood (and the fact that I think she's getting close on La Rambla??) But if Ashima does one any time now, I don't think anyone would be surprised.
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In the Watts guide to Smith he helpfully grades the individual cruxes. So you can see that To Bolt has six separate cruxes, rated 13-, 13-, 13, 13-, 12 and 11 for a total overall difficulty of 14a. No 14a moves.
Except his gradings aren't "helpful", nor are they accurate.
13- has, by traditional convention, been associated with a V7 bouldering grade, and I don't think the above route has three V7's (and one harder problem, per his notations). I've often heard it mentioned that this route has continual V4 climbing, but I don't know from personal experience.
Badman is also given 5.14a (somewhat morpho, but what route isn't), and has perhaps 2 V7 boulder sections, and certainly isn't as sustained as the aforementioned route.
BTW, I've never heard of, or given, routes grades based on any notion of "onsite" difficulty. Grades generally tend to settle in after a familiarity with the route, along with consensus.
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I'm generally ok with dogs. I like 'em.
I don't even mind well-mannered dogs saying hi.
But climbers around you shouldn't need to change their behaviour because of your pets.
People around you shouldn't have to safe-guard their food because your dog is wandering around.
People around you shouldn't have to keep an eye on their small kids because of your dog.
And please, if your dog is barking more than infrequently, it's a major nuisance to at least some people around you!
Please leash wandering dogs, and if they are barkers, please keep them at home.
Thanks!
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It's incredibly hard to load a kernmantle climbing rope to failure without exposing it to cutting forces.
Whenever I have fears of climbing rope strength, I like to visualize a 10 mm climbing rope suspending two subaru foresters in the air, something it's entirely capable of doing.
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I got diagnosed with Dupuytrens Contracture (DC) ~10 years ago by a hand surgeon. It hasn't progressed. I think perhaps climbers may get something that looks like DC but actually isn't.
thanks for feedback. i've started doing some (painful) massage on mine, and it seems like it might be going away a bit.
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This is a deal with competitive sports, based upon one time performance: ANYONE can win with ANYONE on any given day. It's true and proven on so many occasions. And at some point you WILL GET DE-TRONED. That happened to Woods.
His interview was a prime example of a sore loser speaking.
There is a quote from Joseph Conrad that basically says: some people go through life feeling good about themselves- it's because they have never been challenged. Woods was finally challenged, and mentally he did not raised to the task.
Maybe he should hire a coach? What other sport has no coaching, eh? Even Ondra has a coach now. Also he might have to choose between climbing on plastic and climbing outside on natural rock. But every time an athlete trying to explain his/her loss and blame the rules will simply look like a sore loser- end of story.
I support your right to get up in arms about climbers getting up in arms.
btw it's "DE-TRONNED". you forgot the extra "N".
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i seem to have that distinct hardening at the base of ring and pinky fingers. seems like it came on about 3 years ago during some more intense training. hasn't gone away, nor progressed.
anyone know if the condition has been known to go into remission, or is it considered to be always progressive?
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watched the last vid bit that the link took me to, fail to see the outrage. nothing but woods saying he wished the rules wouldn't change, congratulated mohammed on problem 3....
what's the big deal? and don't ask me to watch more please!
regarding americans on the international bouldering comp scene: i think webb is the only one who might have a chance right now on a regular basis, and i think even that is a big maybe. what i'm curious about is if sharafutdinov can win again, and if ondra (i think he's doing the boulder circuit?) can be beat.
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Orbit, free solo.
Nice, how did that go?
Years ago I accidentally free soloed Orbit, onsite. Shook me up pretty good!
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Should this be only in the Yard Sale??
Anyways, need old climbing ropes, not for climbing!
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Have any old climbing ropes you're done with?
Not for climbing, will be put to a good use!
Thanks.
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Whoever approved the permit is the one who should be liable here.
nah, I think kundig himself should be (is) liable, since he knew very well about local opinion and the covenant, choosing to disregard them.
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from the move the hut dot org site.
To our many friends and supporters: We won the court case against Seattle architect Tom Kundig! Superior Court Judge Culp has ruled that Mr. Kundig and his partners violated the covenants by placing their hut on the ridgeline of Flagg Mountain and must remove it. Not only is this an amazing victory for a small community that banded together to fight a Seattle celebrity architect, but a victory for all who are fighting to preserve the wonder and beauty of unsullied nature. Frank Lloyd Wright had plenty to say on this topic: "No house should ever be on a hill or on anything. It should be of the hill. Belonging to it. Hill and house should live together each the happier for the other." Many thanks to everyone who made this happen.
Good news indeed!
I spent some time at a friend's place in Mazama recently, and became somewhat informed of the situation.
What struck me the most was how one monied individual seemingly had such complete disregard for local tradition.
The idea of the mountain tops littered with buildings a la Winthrop is disturbing, and the covenant was in place to prevent this, so I am happy the judge ruled this way.
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PM me if you or someone you know does this kind of thing. Thanks.
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Any surveyors who freelance or moonlight?
Need some basic survey work for bridge abutment placements.
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probably my first and last visit this year to climb on this pile of turd.
Bob, I bet you can redpoint Aborigine next go, man. I heard it got brushed and everything.
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we would like to hear if anyone else has experienced this and how they have gotten over it, if they have at all.
We would appreciate if you would share your experience and ideas with us.
Thank you
I think it's entirely reasonable to wonder if climbing is worth the risks.
Climbing is an inherently dangerous activity, especially in the alpine environment. Is it something you are prepared to die doing?
I think if your desire to climb is greater than your fear, then naturally your fear will be overcome, but maybe listen to your fear and see if it's giving you good advice on this subject.
There are plenty of happy, smart, well-adjusted humans who don't climb, and think it to be a rather silly hobby.
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I recently purchased a life insurance policy and they had not questions related to climbing. They did have questions about parachuting, scuba, and a few other activities.
Do you mind me asking what company you used?
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I got these a few years ago.
I've also tried the CU's, but prefer the ones I have. And half the cost.
But put 'em in a hard case. mine broke from sitting on them, and I have yet to fix them.
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let's now talk about the role of the presidency in american politics.
oh lordy, i'm out. have a great weekend my fellow warriors.
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history has a way of repeating itself.
history can teach us.
if we reflect.
but i suppose you aren't one who has ever talked of jimmy pejoratively.
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what i really wanna know is what did jimmy carter do wrong on the economy?
QUESTION(!):
CAN SOMEONE PLEASE ANSWER THIS?
stagflation
malaise
yes yes we all know the symptoms.
are you implying he was the cause? seemingly fairweather was.
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what i really wanna know is what did jimmy carter do wrong on the economy?
QUESTION(!):
CAN SOMEONE PLEASE ANSWER THIS?
RIP Dean Potter
in Climber's Board
Posted
His entire life seemed to center on extreme risk-taking, so I'm not much surprised with this news.
I admit to having misgivings about such exploits in general, the public's perception of these exploits, and the monetization and promotion of these exploits by both the individuals performing them and corporate interests. It's a continuing and seemingly unquestioned trend in our culture towards the more and more "extreme", getting to the point with some of these activities where there's a significantly reduced survival rate. A strange fetish, really, and troubling to me.
I also think chirp's comments, although perhaps a bit inappropriately timed and offered, shouldn't necessarily be taken as a final indictment of his character. I don't know chirp, but I think his post speaks to the polarized way in which people responded to Potter. Potter's behaviours certainly created controversy.
In the end, I'll respond to Dean Potter's passing in the same way I would respond to anyone's: I sincerely pray that he passed from this life being ok with both the time and manner of his passing, and that both he and his loved ones are at peace.