robpatterson5

Just saw a Duality in store - looks AWESOME. Lighter and seemed more compressible then my DAS, plus WAY warmer - seemed almost twice as thick. The Duality looks like a great jacket, I might size down though. I take a medium in everything, with this one I think I might go for a small-even as a belay jacket. Oh-and the hood does not have one of those rear cinch-cords. Not necessary but I enjoy the one on my DAS. Not sure why Arcteryx chose not to include on on their much more expensive Duality. Cheers,

I just saw the ArcTeryx Duality Parka - despite being twice the price of the DAS, I was impressed! Looks more packable and WARMER. I just wish I could justifie replacing my DAS. I really like my MH Windproof Balaclava Pata mixmaster pants = awesome. And most of the time I find a silkweight base, 100 weight hoody and maybe 200 weight vest+shell is a great system. Most likely whatever you get will be great. These are just items that are really great in the winter.

Give it a go. I'd be interested in hearing reports of falls held w/ the system. The equalized stuff sounds like a pain to make every 3-4 feet. FF is fall length vs rope out. a fall of 20ft w/ 10 ft of rope out is a ff2 - a fall of 96feet w/ 48ft out is also a FF2. Has to do w/ the ropes ability to disperse force and the amount of rope compared to the length of a fall. The length of fall (force) is relevant, but not as much as the shock absorbing capabilities of the rope, based on rope out. Depends how it catches you, but a fall onto your lowest lanyard at its full extension (say 3 ft) is a 6 foot fall. Which calculates out to a FF2. If the upper one catches you it will be less - but (I bet) w/ a FF of greater then FF1. You make your call. Cheers, Rob

-length of the lanyards has nothing to do with the fall factor -How would you place multiple pieces - equalize them? You only have two arms on the lanyard. -I heard of someone who soloed Dierdre in Squamish - they had 3 daisy chains, and pushed 3 yellow metoliouses up the whole climb and soloed the approach pitches.

It might, but the gear that you put in - do you think it will be as strong as the bolts on Via Ferettas? I imagine they are at the very least using climbing bolts. Do you think that the force of the falls w/ a Via Ferreta+leapfrog is going to be more or less then a traditional self belay w/ a gri-gri or cloves? I wonder if the Via Feretta will not have fairly harsh falls, even w/ the screamer, and if they might not be harsh enough to pull gear?

I really like my Gamma AR pants, the pockets and fabric is nice. I hear Valhalla Pure uses the same fabric in their pants? I'd suggest getting any other color then black. Hope that helps.

Looks NICE!!!

Hi all, after getting most of my face burnt off on a glacier I'm in the market for a new sun hat. Looking for something lightweight, with good coverage, and preferably a dark brim and light color. If I could wear it with my climbing helmet that would be excellent. If it looks great that would be even better. What are people using? Fashion comments aside, I was looking at the OR Sun Runner cap. Cheers, Rob

Thanks guys! Now the only question is whether to just replace my 60cm Raven, or the Raven and my 35cm Simond Fox hammer?! I'm thinking just the raven...

That's great feedback, thanks Mkporwit. How do you find it is swinging two different lengths?

Hi, I was looking at getting a set of Venoms or Air Tec Evos for summer alpine climbing and was wondering what people thought of pairing a 50cm hammer with a 60 cm adz? I'm wondering how they climb? My thought is to get them both in the 50cm length; my piolet is a 60cm Raven Pro, I haven't however been impressed with it on steep ice, but it is the right length. Just wondering what people have found makes for the most usable setup for alpine ice and glaciers. I do like the extra 10 cm on the Raven vs. my tech tools for glacier walking and side hilling.

I have the RAB and really like it. eVent is awesome! Great solo tent, for two people you really need to work together to get in, but once in its great! I might be tempted to sell mine, I'm moving out east at the end of the summer and doubt I will have the chance to really use it for the next few years. I'm thinking for the east I might just get a Hubba Hubba. If your intrested shoot me a PM. Cheers, Rob

Thanks Montypiton, thats what I suspected. Unfortumently I think that even with my DAS parka the TNF Elipants foot will only be a realistic 20F bag - and at those tempratures I usualy bring a lighter belay jacket anyways. Too bad, might have been a cool way to save some weight. Re: Al crampons, I know steel is good. Still I'd much rather scramble easy climbs in sneakers then in summer climbing boots and my steel's need a rear clip. Too bad.

Anyone use Eliphants foots bags or have any thoughts on them? I've always been tempted by the weight savings but just saw the new North Face one and was tempted for summer trips or emergincy gear in the winter touring. Wondering if they are a good option at all? Also anyone used Al crampons for alpine summer rock climbs? I'm tempted by the weight savings but don't want to sandbag myself with them

bump

Thought that I would bring this thread back and ask about useing aluminum crampons on Rockies summer routes? Were looking at some routes like the East Ridge on Temple, The 5.7 on Alberta, Edith Cavel, ect. Routes where either you may or may not need crampons -- or your going to be carrying them for most of the climb. I was wondering about useing a pair of Grivel Air-Tech Lights vs. my Saberteeth. With some of the easier and less snowy climbs the disadvanatge is that I'll have to use my Trangos rather then climb in aproch shoes. I'm wondering what peoples thoughts of aluminum crampons are for Rockies summer alpinism, am I better of with steel? Thanks all.

posted in the wrong forum, deleted.

thanks - where do you get the inners? I didient realize that you clould buy them sepertly

I think thats Mystery Ranch that your thinking of (had to google that) Anyone used the Montbell Alpine light parka or jacket?

I think its bozeman mountain works, their house brand

Thanks all, I just found a great deal on the Montbell Alpine Hoody so I think I`m going to get that, that is unless I`m making a huge mistake planning to take it into the Rockies in summer...

Thanks but I`m a medium or a small. The MH hoody looks nice! Was thinking of trying to keep the jacket under 1lb (if thats even a smart idea), but might have to go for the MH. Was also looking at a waterproof hooded pullover from MEC, but it only has 60gr of primaloft (the same as the Fraction hoody, but a higher quality fill).

Hi, I`m thinking of upgrading my summer belay jaket and I`m trying to decide between the BMW ProParka and the MB Montbell Alpine Light Down Parka. I have a OR Fraction hoody, but its not quite warm enough (I was caught in an unplanned bivy in it in the Canadian Rockies last summer - I survived it but I was COLD). Usualy I bring a R1 hoody and maybe either a R2 vest or a R.5 pullover as my insulation in the summer. I really like the look (and warmth) of the Patagonia hooded Micropuff - but want to keep the weight down. Does anyone have any thoughts? I am also thinking of layering the MB Alpine Light Parka under my DAS for a trip up the West Butress on Denalli. Cheers

Sounds like a great trip, maybe next season down there... Any other info/good tips? Cheers

Jeaze, its almost as cheap as Denali or the Ruth! Is the website (and the alpinist issue) the only reliable and colected info on routes until your down there? Or is it all reserching spicific routes? Cheers