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Posts posted by OlegV

  1. Trip: Mt Hood - Illumination Rock - East Ridge of South Chamber

    Trip Date: 09/06/2020

    Trip Report:

    We climbed the South Ridge of South Chamber on Sunday.  I camped several hundred feet away from the IR on the boulder field and met my partner in the morning.  The lower ZigZag glacier and the Illumination saddle looked like a war zone, but the night was pleasant.


    I saw the Lyon Head fire from the distance (my apologies for a grainy image) and at first though it was a lava flow from the Jefferson.


    The Mt Hood looked surreal.


    The snow at the base of the IR is mostly gone. We climbed the ridge to the left of the large brown spot and then traversed the face to the summit.


    Climbing I-rock (I wouldn't call it a "rock"). The slab pitch (#4?)


    At the last pitch - it felt like the summit rock is made of sand. 


    We still look happy at the summit.


    Reid from the rappel station


    The crux of the climb was getting off the IR. There are numerous loose blocks laying around frightening to kill you.  The last rap brought us on the steep unconsolidated slope. We traversed it to the right.

    I do not recommend to climb this route in summer...     

    Gear Notes:
    medium rack, ice axe, crampons (worked really well on the dirt), beer before and after the climb

    Approach Notes:
    South Side

  2. Hi Alex,

    I saw your post and got exited - you are back to NW! How are things going? I hope your injury is nothing serious. I've been getting through the same "sitting too much" problems - neck pain and knee injury. 

    I am looking for alpine partners as well. Have you climbed in WA Pass? I just climbed the Burgundy Spire and would like to go back in August - early September and do the Liberty Bell and The Early Winter Spires.

    If you are interested, here is my contact info:






  3. 17 hours ago, ScaredSilly said:

    One needs put a few things in perspective about the classic routes such LR. If one thinks about the FA it was done in August.  50 Classics was written in the late 70s. Since then anthropomorphic climate change has greatly affected many of these routes.  In the late 80s when I did LR people regularly did the route through July. Rarely is that the case now.

    What makes LR a classic over PR? That is pretty simple. LR has a bit of everything ... glacier travel, a climb to a high camp in a great position, long sections of exposed climbing that does not end until right at the summit. PR has little of that, a long hike to a high camp, at best 2000' of climbing, then a mostly leisurely 2000' stroll to the summit. 



    I actually liked the PR better because of its remoteness and variety of the terrains

  4. 8 hours ago, DPS said:

    SS. you make a good point. The routes in 50 Classics are not always the most difficult or most aesthetic, some are of a more historical significance.  For example, is the WR the best route on Forbidden? Many would argue NW Arete is a much better route, however, WR has more history. I think as a young and inexperienced climber I had unrealistic expectations for LR.

    Getting on the other side of Forbidden is a real pain though. 

  5. On 6/30/2020 at 3:01 PM, DPS said:

    Oleg, I was underwhelmed by the route also. We dodged large falling rocks from the toe (5th class climbing on an un-mortared pile of bricks) to Thumb Rock. I wonder, however, if PR was a 50 Classic Climb if there would be more accidents on that route. 

    Dan, your LR experience sounds classic - Thumb Rock is falling apart and scarring people. I suspect some of this rock derbies turn into a meteor shower flying down the first pitch of the LR. I've never had any problems with the rock fall ABOVE Thumb Rock, although people did get hit by the avalanches there.      

  6. Whoever called the LR the "classic climb" was wrong. I've climbed this ridge twice and each time my partner or I were an inch away from being hit by a flying rock.  The PR is a much better and  safer objective. There is nothing aesthetic about LR either.  The bottom line, the LR is a boring dangerous place.  

  7. It looks like they are turning the T-line into a crazy land. We now must purchase a ticket to get there?  As always, the businesses and the government are trying to patch their budgets out of our pockets and the climbers are not even considered.

    There are other ways you can climb Mt Hood. Park at the snow park parking lot across the White River Recreational area and follow the White river canyon to a great weakness in the canyon wall from where you can get to the south side. This trip will add extra 2000 ft to your climb.

    From Mt Hood Meadows, you climb North-East-facing routes 

  8. The weather forecast may improve in the next week or so. I am looking for a alpine partner to climb snow and ice (if there is any left).  Some ideas:

    Mt Hood (Devils Kitchen HW, Sunshine, NF gullies (considering low snow level, it's a stretch and an extreme calf burner)

    Rainier (Gibbs Ledges...maybe)

    Chair Peak (NF?)

    Extreme hiking is always an option