Johnny_R

gapertimmy - Ah - memories of Paulina when it "tries" to come into condition. There's a pic of a very wet top-rope session from a few years back at http://www.flickr.com/photos/52556861@N00/323469716/in/set-72157594272820248/ for those who might be curious as to what it looks like when it is sort of climbable. This pic is of a section to the very far climbers left of the falls away from the main flow where, in your last pic, the ice has yet to really form let alone touch. Wet, wet, wet but fun, fun, fun.

Dammit! This blasted cc.com needs a place where folks like me can hire one my fellow dirt-bag climber buddies to sit for hours and hit the return key on one of my spray posts so I too can have lots and lots of posts and not look like some dumb poser / loser. Unless, of course one of you guys are looking for something to do? P.S. I'll pay top dollar - at least the current Federal minimum wage (less withholding, workman's comp and a special "climber's retirement" fund contribution that goes to me) that works out to something around 50 cents an hour). If you read this far JUST KIDDING!

Thank you guys! I needed this. After spending (wasting?) many hours mostly lurking on the main Mt Hood thread and dealing with lots of personal "grrrrrrrrrrr" I stumbled across this thread. As they say, "laughter is the best medicine." Danke.

mattp, I hear you but those posts with suppositions / assumptions worded as questions are more like clever trolling. I like questions that ask for information like many that have been posted and really like the many quality responses especially those with images (1000 words, eh?). I was a newbie once too so I understand the curiosity but a post with nothing but a string of questions that are, for the most part, unanswerable until facts are determined (i.e. an autopsy)? Not necessary IMHO.

I'm glad that folks are very interested in these climbers, mountain climbing in general and Mt. Hood in particular but based on a number of posts full of nothing but questions I'm beginning to question the truthfulness of the old adage, "There's no such thing as a stupid question." Take a deep breath, do some independent research, read all of the prior posts, take some time to digest the info you've collected and then, and only after some critical thought, consider posting your question. Thank you.

mrd & LH, The completely hypothetical scenerio was deleted by Johnny_R.

LH - I hope some of the following helps- Tie-In Rock is the very large rock located on Cooper Spur just before the spur begins to steepen. Do a Google Image search "mt hood north side" and you will find an image with red lines indicating climbing routes (be cautious with this information - just because someone put an image up with routes doesn't mean they either exist or are any good). Tie-In Rock is the large rock surrounded by snow directly below the "ur" in the word Spur. The north face "gullies" are sort of indicated by all of the confusing vertical red lines that rise from the Eliot (only one "l" in Eliot) Glacier. A Google Image search "mt hood south side" will provide an image captioned "Mt Hood South Side Climbing Route". Again, be cautious with the indicated route lines but you can see that the south side of Mt Hood is not as steep or rugged (generally) as the north side. The South Side Route is the easiest (careful with words like easy as they are relative, eh?) and by far the most attempted route on the mountain. Depending upon conditions (the mountain and the weather) and the skills and experience of the climber, the challenge to climb south side route of Mt. Hood can range from moderately difficult to life threatening at any time of year although most people climb the south side route during the "normal" season in and around April through June (give or take a week or two depending upon the winter snowfall, etc.). A Google Image search "mt hood pearly gates" will provide you with a number of images of this south side feature (the Obsidians image gives a good idea). The standard south side climbing route ascends from the Timberline Lodge area to the right of the large volcanic plug where a snow ridge called the "Hogs Back" (where many climbing parties rope up - Google Images search "mt hood hogs back") leads up (and over/around the bergschrund) to and through the Pearly Gates (named for the beautiful rime ice that sometimes forms on the rocks of the "gate") to a short uphill section that leads to the summit ridge. Mt. Hood has a summit that is actually a gently undulating ridge line that is maybe 100 yards long or longer that runs generally east to west. All of the routes on tne north side of Mt Hood are more difficult than the South Side Route with the possible exception of the Sunshine route (again, depending upon conditions, etc.). The Cooper Spur route has the highest ratio of accidents per climber of any Mt Hood route in part because it looks "easy" but isn't and the consequences of a fall on the route are oftentimes deadly. And the gully routes on the north face that rise above the Eliot Glacier are best climbed in late winter when the gullies are full of hard snow and ice that "glues together" (most of the time anyway) Mt Hood's loose volcanic rock. Without this 'winter glue' the route is incredibly dangerous and thus why it should only be climbed when in "winter condition" and then only by experienced, technically competent winter mountaineers. If in doubt, hire a qualified professional guide service.

Selected info from 8/3 Register-Guard (Iain is quoted in the full article): "MOUNT WASHINGTON - Officials involved in the search for and recovery of two experienced climbers who fell to their deaths here last week haven't determined the cause of the fall but they issued a warning: Beware the mountain's loose rock. Although the Deschutes National Forest could not provide statistics, the fatalities were thought to be the first in 10 to 12 years on Mount Washington. Seifert and Gentz chose the West Face route, an approach that is significantly more challenging than the standard northern route, rescuers said. Rescuers found no obvious signs of equipment failure, but they are unable to say whether the climbers had adequately secured ropes and other gear to the mountain. "It's going to take experts to look at the evidence and conclude what happened," said Mark Foster of the Jefferson County sheriff's office search-and-rescue unit. In an incident in the same area on Mount Washington in 2000, two climbers fell after their equipment failed to hold, Morris said. They dropped more than 100 feet but survived, landing in deep snow." For complete article go to: http://www.registerguard.com/news/2004/08/03/d1.cr.mountainsafety.0803.html

Geeze, I've just today actually explored this fun site (not one to ever claim to be a "first adapter") and discoved that there's a collection of folks I've had the pleasure to climb and otherwise play with during the years past who have had occasion to post here. Excellent. Wild Willie was my first and best rock teacher and Tex kicked serious posterior back in '01 as the runner on the Fun Hog Gang S2S team. Then there's Bobbo M. and David "pirate rings" E. who shared a Lotus ledge with me up there in canuk land years ago. And not to forget that wonderous day on snag ledge when Mr. Beacon Rock wanted to name Rock Master "Leave It To Beaver" in honor of Miss G but was outvoted by the very Miss G. Darn! I liked LITB better . Thanks for bringing back great memories. (P.S. I still get out every blue moon and can still lead trad at 4.9 and better on a good day.)

The pictures tell a huge and sad story. Any one who's been on Washington knows just how lousy the rock is and how committing the routes can be. Summer before last I backed off of Central Pillar after testing the crux and did the North Ridge instead - I sure wish these guys would have had the same option. My condolences.