hemp22
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Posts posted by hemp22
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I like the Grivel Manu too - but for what you're asking for (to carry 2 pairs of shoes plus 2 windbreakers), I think it'll be too small.
I believe it's only 13L.
That Arcteryx 18L pack looks like a pretty nice one that could probably meet your needs.
Cilogear also makes a 20L pack that's a bare-bones summit pack and not much heavier than the arcteryx. (280g).
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just wanted to echo the props. got my dmm offsets delivered this morning, the day after they showed up as available online. + free shipping
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Probably the Mountain shop (around NE 6th & Broadway) or OMC (around NE 29th & Sandy) are gonna be your best bet.
Edit: just checked the websites, and it looks like OMC should have a couple different models. I didn't find any on mountainshop site, but their website isn't really useful or accurate, so they might actually have some in the store ..
Edit again: REI carries at least one model, but probably not currently on the shelves in the store. Probably best to call each store (OMC, Mountain shop, or downtown REI) to see if any of them have them in stock)
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you can try posting the same message on the smithrock.com forum. Also, give Redpoint in Terrebonne a call since they occasionally have kind of a lost & found
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yeah, i wasn't sure if most people knew about that already, or if i'd be fueling a fire....
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also note that the portlandrockclimbs site does have online topos for all the areas covered in his book. It even has the I-rock & Lamberson Butte stuff that was taken out of the 3rd edition of the book.
(It even has "elusive" info such as an Ozone topo & directions to the Lake O crag)
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some of the walls at broughton have routes that will dry out quickly, or even stay totally dry while it's raining....But all of the walls there also have spots that are effected by seepage and take a long time to dry out.
but for climbing without any wet rock, i wouldn't hold out much hope for either broughton or ozone this weekend...
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for the choice that the OP is looking at, I'd go with the 9.8 dry rope. If the dry rope & non-dry rope are the same price, I'd go with the dry rope any time - even if planning on only using it in dry conditions. In addition to what's mentioned above, some dry treatments seem to reduce friction (on rock or on biners) a little bit too, which is nice.
Sure, the 9.8 may wear out a little faster than the 10.2, but by the time it does, you'll be able to find another good rope deal...
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Perhaps a better question would be to ask Mark what he ended up deciding to do last summer, since that's when this thread originated.
Sounds like he just let it go.
Hopefully if he sees this thread, he'll let us know.
(i don't get to Lworth enough to have a meaningful opinion, but i'd also say no more bolts are necessary)
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i have a cilogear pack. for fitting the frame sheet, i just followed the instructions that are available on the website (or maybe a copy of the manual comes with the pack too). it's pretty straight-forward - just figure out where to bend it to fit it to your back, and bend it over your knee. As the instructions mention, you'll probably have to try a few times before you get it formed just right - so be patient and do it a couple times. you can always re-fit it again later.
for the straps, once you get used to how to connect & disconnect them, and how many types of strap there are, you'll realize that there are pretty much endless possibilities of how you could arrange them. Toy around with the different configurations and just see what you like.
I find that most of the time for casual usage (cragging with a rope or rack in the pack), I just leave 2 of the short "simple" straps on each side in a "flat" configuration (parallel to the ground...no angles) so that I can cinch it open & closed quickly.
But for a longer haul or heavier load, and when I want to have something strapped to the sides of the pack (like tent poles & sleeping pad, or probe & shovel), I choose some of the other fancy straps instead and spend some time at home getting it set up so the load carries well.
For these more specialized uses, i've probably tried a different setup every time, and haven't necessarily figured out what's best yet.
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The video notes that their "Corax" harness is "adustable".
Any of you own one of them thangs and can verify its adustability?
Yes, the new corax is adjustable - as in it has adjustable leg loops & waist belt is adjustable on either side. (the old corax was adjustable too
Edit - nevermind...didn't see the typo earlier
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First, I'll say good on ya for getting out and doing your first multipitch gear anchors (sans crusty mentor).
Don't worry about how long it took you - I'd say probably everyone spends a really long time setting up their anchors on their first time out. Don't worry - that will improve with practice. You'll get a lot more efficient with both the placements and the rigging of the anchor.
It looks like you're using the equalette, so I'm guessing you've either read the latest version of John Long's book, or you've at least read all about it online. If so, then you probably also know that the gear placements are the most important part of the anchor, and from pictures we're not really going to be able to assess each one of your placements for you. But once you have bomber gear, then how you rig your anchor - with an equalette or a power-point cordalette tie-off - is not as critical.
But I'll offer some thoughts on your equalettes too.
In the first two pictures, it looks like your belay & tie-in are slid all the way to one side of the equalette. This will remove some of the equalizing properties, so it's best to set it up so that the limiter knots are at approximately equal height. Ideally, you don't want the weight on your equalette to actually hit those limiter knots unless one side fails.
So, like in the 2nd anchor - adjust the cloves on the left 2 pieces so that the left limiter knot hangs down to the same level as the right one.
In the third pic, I remember that tiny crack at the top of the 3rd pitch. If I remember right, the gear there is tiny (not necessarily bomber) but there are some decent ledges around there. Remember that if you have a good ledge, you can save a little bit of time by only plugging in a couple pieces for a quick anchor, and then planting your butt firmly on the ledge and belaying off your harness so that you take most of the weight before the anchor does.
Also, if you want to have a single-biner powerpoint to belay your second directly off the anchor, you might try this variation that's sort of an equallette with a quad powerpoint:
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it's right up there with the "suction cup pro" (a.k.a plunger head) prank too.
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The detour from 97 west to 197 at the Dalles is like 20-25 miles, but then in OR 197 will just head south and eventually meet back up with 97, so you don't really have to go 20 miles out of the way on both sides of the river.
Driving through portland then over 26 could be just as fast if you time it to avoid any traffic.
The bridge construction on 97 is supposed to be over May 11.
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for what it's worth, i have the 4 largest WC zeroes, Z3-Z6, and I have never placed the Z3. At such a small size, the range is just miniscule (not to mention to low strength). I'd be inclined to get a double in the size of the yellow #2 metolius, or the 0.4 camalot, before getting a Z3.
As for which brand, I think both metolius and BD make solid, quality gear, so the decision between TCU, master cam, & C3 is really up to your personal preference.
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One pack idea that I have had and never seen is simple little piggy back for my harness. I don't particularly like climbing with a pack or a camel back, but would like a little mini pack that could be fixed to the back of my harness so I could carry stuff like bars, small bottle of water, first aid stuff, tape, you the ten essentials (ha). This way I wouldn't have to have crap dangling off my harness, stuffed in my pockets or carry a pack on multipitch climbs.
Sounds like you're looking for a Metolius harness pack
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Thanks Kellie, that sounds like good news!
I'll try to make some of the planning meetings, and certainly the clean-up days.
The clean-up days may need to be a recurring thing also - I've heard some recent reports of high school kids using the area to party on weekends and smashing beer bottles, etc... (reminiscent of rocky butte?)
Oh, and anyone know whether there's a lot of poison oak out there these days? I need to avoid that stuff or wear a full hazmat suit...
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the stoneworks intro class is a great deal. for the portland area, i would recommend that class even if it wasn't the closest gym to you.
you get a free month membership with gear rentals, so you have time to go back and figure out if you're really going to be into it.
regardless of which gym you go to, you can always go back on your own without having a partner. just boulder to get a good workout, and/or meet other people there to trade belays with.
as long as you're friendly and easy-going, some of those people can turn into more regular partners if you stick with it.
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This is already posted in both this forum and the Events forum (see posts by anastasia)
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Ah, don't feel too bad about the weather.
One of the recent times when I flew down to vegas to climb in the sun, I was greeted with snow on the Strip.
The rangers very strongly advised against going up the turtle back hike, so we did a mellow one up in the White rock springs area I believe. We ran into a guy on XC skis going the other way.
We bailed and went hiking in Zion instead.
You're right - it can definitely be beautiful to see the desert like that....
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To answer your second question first: yes, I'd support a local grass roots company if the product quality/design & customer service are all good. Someone else mentioned cilogear as an example of this, and I have to agree that his reputation for customer service is a big part of his success.
As for the question on preferences - it all depends. people will have widely different tastes based on the type of climbing that they do. It sounds like you have 2 different pack designs in mind, but even with 2 designs, each will probably be "pretty good" for many situations, but not specialized enough to be "excellent" at any one application. What people want in an ideal pack will change a lot with what it's going to be used for: rock-cragging, ice, ski-mountaineering, overnight trips, etc.
So, a lot of it will certainly come down to your design - and as someone mentioned above, until we see the design & craftsmanship, we're not going to be able to say much of anything.
Rather than just asking a large user base what they like, you'd be better off showing your design ideas (or, better yet, finished products) to people, and let them say which features/qualities they like & dislike, and for what reasons.
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i can't make it there by 3:00, but if you'll still be going at around 4:00, I could show up then and help out.
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FYI - the Highway 97 bridge across the Columbia is closed until ~May 11.
Wanted: Multipitch pack
in The Gear Critic
Posted
Interesting - everywhere I've looked online at the old style Manu still has it listed at 13L. Gearxpress, everestgear, mountaingear, etc... all list 13L for the old one.
Of course, it's kind of a moot point, since either version of the pack is still too small for what Alpinfox is looking for.
So Graham - your 20L is too small to fit in 2 pairs of shoes & 2 windbreakers?