hemp22
-
Posts
430 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by hemp22
-
-
i'd recommend not getting that petzl zephyr as your first rope. I haven't used one, but there are stories on the web about the sheaths on them fraying/fuzzing quickly.
Also, for a first rope, you can do a lot better than $179 for a 60M rope. The REI deal Bill posted above would be a great first rope, if it's still available.
check out www.spadout.com for other single rope deals @ online stores - for example, you can get a 10.2mm x 60M beal edlinger for $120, or a 10.3mm x 60M Edelweiss Axis for $130.
http://www.spadout.com/store.php?cat_id=467&cat_view=1&st_sort=pricelh
-
Might be this one:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/oregon/ramona_creek_crag/106286504
If so, Talk to Andy who works at PRG.
Edit: but actually, from your description, that doesn't really sound right - where exactly was this in relation to rhododendron? you're not talking about up on Tom, Dick, Harry peak, right?
-
Well, I didn't have a particular study in mind - just knew that I'd read that before in multiple places.
But a quick google search turned up this test (which I hadn't seen before) that the AMGA had Blue Water Ropes perform on an HMS biner:
...When the knot was tied incorrectly, with the load strand farthest away from the spine of the carabiner, it was found that the knot tried to align itself with the spine at 250 lbs., and carabiner failure occurred–before rope breakage–at approximately 38% below the carabiner's rated strength.
(See link for a picture of what's considered incorrect load orientation)
-
no, it shouldn't matter whether the cross is right-to-left or left-to right.
but, it is recommended that if you're clove-hitching into a 'biner that the load-bearing exit strand is the one closest to the spine of the 'biner. just make sure you're doing that right, and you should be fine.
-
From Vegastradguy's RC.com OR show report:
This bad boy first leaked about two weeks ago- check out the latest cam from DMM- the Dragon. So, I’ll answer two quick questions right now- YES, it is a double axle cam, and YES it is as sexy as it looks. The action is amazing on them- as smooth as or better than that other double axle cam, and the look… the hot forged process allows a three dimensional look to be forged into the lobe giving it a hell of an appeal.
Some answers for the folks in the thread about this cam- they’re going to be up to 10% lighter than a C4 in the bigger ranges, a little less than that in the smaller. The color coding you see above is exactly what you think it is- DMM picked the color coding to roughly coincide with BD’s, going with the theory that it’ll make it easier for most folks to grab a cam if they know that hand cracks are the yellow cam, regardless of manufacturer- which is something that I really like, especially since the MaxCam and Link Cam have also done this. Finally, I asked about the Duplex cable system used to connect the 5mm stem cable to the 3.2mm thumb loop cable, and Paul said that its more or less a hub connection just above the thumb loop (think like on a tent) that is swaged right there in three spots- very slick. Finally, look for these cams to price between $74 and $79 a piece and be available in February. Oh, and yes, I asked if they are planning on expanding the set to include smaller (and possibly larger cams) and the answer was a resounding YES. Woohoo!
-
Them's some sexy cams.
Not that I need any more gear, but those do look nice.
As usual w/ DMM gear, though, I'm sure they'll be pricey.
Anyone want to wager on what they'll retail at on this side of the pond? I'm guessing $75 and up.
-
wow. 27 SAR members responded?
Lowered 250 ft - so they were in the west face cave maybe?
very confused as to how this all would have happened.
-
cool bill - i hadn't seen that other thread.
it's a good idea. I haven't been out there in a while, but remember thinking a lot of those anchors could use some love.
I've got a ~5' pry bar if you think it'd help.
-
So Bill, you'll have to share eventually: where is the offending bolt that you're replacing?
-
what makes you think that waivers will be required at madrone?
-
cool TR.
but question: what kind of fork is that on the pope-mobile?
(also, not that my opinion matters much, but i'd also support a MTB forum - i enjoy biking as much as climbing & skiing, so it would just make sense for me personally - since I don't have time to go frequent MTB-specific websites.
there was an outstanding downhill MTB trip report on TGR several months ago from somewhere in the Andes, I think - it was better than any of the usual ski TRs)
-
Hey man, no hard feelings. I'm glad you got some of your gear back. It's great that you still have such detailed memory of the gear that was lost back then. I was more surprised at the apparent lynch mob that was forming without much substantial evidence that it was your stolen gear.
for what it's worth, the reason for the skepticism is from comparing the gear in the photos to the gear in your 2004 post.
....versus....O-P oval and REI anodized locking screwgate from mid-80s, 2004 Camalots (there was a whole set of BRAND NEW ones from 0.1 to 4), the TCU, the Alien with the tweaked lobes (tweaked from my own use), and the belay device combo of the Reverso, Gri-Gri, and silver-anodized ATC.
Most of what you got back (reverso, ATC, alien, TCU, REI & OP biners) wasn't in that original post.- one set Camalots, 0.1 - 4.0, mostly newer single stems (# 0.5. 0.75, 4.0 were older double stems)- one set mostly older WC Rocks
....
- 15 quickdraws on purple Spectra 11" slings, and a few Petzl bones
- half dozen-plus locking biners for TR set-ups
- half dozen runners including 4 newer yellow Mammut
- 3-4 lengths of TR webbing
- old Grigri
.....
Almost all the biners were newer BD: Mostly Neutrinos, a bunch of HotWires, 6 Positrons (BD's standard keylock that came out new last year), 6 or so OvalWires, 6 or so lockers.
hopefully you'll understand the reason for doubt...
cheers
-
what's remarkable is that, from the photographs, people would think that it's his gear from 5 years ago...despite the fact that the gear list in his post from 5 years ago only matches about 1/3 of the items in the photos.
people need to chill - sure, this stuff looks stolen, and the pawn shop story sounds bunk, but to think that it's pindude's gear is really reaching...
-
Curious - if the cams pictured were pindude's cams that were stolen in April 2004, how are 3 of the pictured cams C4 Camalots?
-
I think Dane's point is that there's a broad spectrum of situations in climbing where the risk of something hitting you on the head varies from zero to extreme.
For me, the situations where I consider the risk to be zero are: any time top-roping or TR belaying (or bouldering) when there's no one above us that's likely to drop/trundle stuff (obviously, climbing in a gym falls into this category.
Then there are the situations where the risk is not zero, but it's very low [e.g. leading routes I've done several times, etc.], where I take other things into account as well: is it extra hot out? are there cute girls around? will I mess up my hair?
And then for the situations where I consider the risk to be high (alpine, leading at/near my limit, or belaying someone who's placing gear and likely to drop stuff), I'll generally always wear it, even if I don't expect to need it.
Of course, that same sort of spectrum exists for the other activities mentioned as well. Class 3 kayaking is different than class 5, etc.
Road cyclists don't wear a helmet because they expect to ever have to use it.
-
looks like a locksafe Shadow. but it looks like a keychain biner behind the sheer size of the MGD.
FYI Bill, I got a couple locksafe Sentinels recently, and they're pretty pimp.
-
So far, Leclerc has the most logical explanation - and he wasn't even alive in the 80s.
It makes sense that all 80s sport climbers were huge A-ha fans - but on the off chance that the sport climbing usage came along before the hit song, then "take up slack" seems to be the next best thing.
But, I definitely agree that the term has been bastardized over the years to mean just about anything - but the most common meaning in today's climbing lexicon is: "take all the slack out of the rope so I can sit hear and rest on this top rope, or on this bolt that I just clipped, before trying the next move, because I'd hate to fall a couple feet and have to spend all the energy to do that last move again."
when actually falling, I try to be clear about what's going on, so I try to remember to not just say "take", but to say "falling" or something - it usually comes out as "tah-fah-ohh-shiiiiii!!!1"
-
Ditto on the request for helmet recommendations.
I'd figured I'd hold out on the Metolius Safe-Tech helmet, but it looks like that product has been canned. Now I'm looking at the Mammut skywalker - anyone used that?
my old edelrid hardcase is getting pretty crusty these days.
in terms of usage: almost always when leading, when on multipitch, when lead-belaying, or when people are above. but not when TR'ing.
-
oh yeah, and if saving a few grams is your main concern - also look closely at the grams/meter weight of each rope, and not just the diameter - some ropes might be 0.1mm thicker, but actually lighter.
Edit: I think that the sheath/core ratio plays a role in the weight per meter, and unfortunately, that leads to the weight per meter & edge durability of a rope being inversely proportional
-
i think a 9.4 or 9.5 would be fine, but I personally wouldn't go below 9.4 for regular single-pitch use.
I have a 9.7 and use it regularly and feel good about it.
but I also have a 9.1 joker and wouldn't subject it to daily cragging use.
I have climbed on a serenity 8.9 at a crag, and did feel a little nervous about it - but it wasn't mine, so I didn't mind abusing it.
I think the main thing to worry about is whether the weight savings of the thin lines is really worth it given how expensive they are, and how much more frequently they'll need to be replaced.
For any of those diameters 9.4 and above, any device except a grigri should work fine. But the thinner ropes do require a bit more attentiveness.
I've developed a rule of thumb for myself that I try to always use a belay glove when belaying/rappelling on < 10mm.
-
Well, what grades are you looking for? I think there are some good easy trad leads at each of the local areas (broughton, rocky, carver, ozone). They may be relatively short, and not as heavily travelled or "fun" as some of the popular sport climbs, but lots of opportunities to build up a strong "base" of gear climbs to get your comfort level up.
(but yes, if you want to learn on multi-pitch as well, then go to smith)
-
Good on ya for wanting to be taught in person, and not just figure it out from books or the web.
I think most any place where you can get a lesson on lead climbing could also tailor a lesson for you towards top-rope anchors (with the exception of the mazamas - they may not be so flexible). Some local businesses can take you out for a guided trip with the focus being on learning TR anchors. I know a few individuals in town who do that sort of thing - I can PM you with names/companies if you'd like.
Alternatively, post up here in the partners forum and offer to pay local climbers in beer and belays to take you out under their wing for an afternoon of top-roping.
-
the others I was referring to were hikers getting lost up by the salmon river, near welches. 2 day hikers got lost monday & were rescued on wednesday. then another 2 day hikers got lost on wednesday & were rescued on thursday, in nearly the same area.
http://www.oregonlive.com/clackamascounty/index.ssf/2009/05/sheriffs_crews_rescue_second_p.html
that scramble near the tunnel seems like a likely place for this guy to have fallen 20 feet.
-
spending the night in the woods seems to be all the rage for oregonians this week.
at least the media seems to be calling them hikers, and not climbers
FOUND Quickdraw on the P1 anchor of Young Warriors
in Lost and Found
Posted · Edited by hemp22
interesting place to leave a draw.
wonder what happened there...