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hemp22

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Posts posted by hemp22

    Breaking News at Broughton's!

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    Yeah, sounds like seriously bad choice of locations for a "practice" bolt ladder.

    It also sounds like these people weren't very receptive to you trying to reason with them?

     

    I think Olson still checks this site sometimes, right? - maybe he could go check it out & see if it does overlap the old line.

    New Climbing Gym in Portland?? (Survey)

    in Climbing Gyms

    Posted

    Hm, yeah - ditto the above people saying that the price sounds steep.

    And yes, adding in a full fitness gym or yoga stuff would make it less appealing as a climbing gym.

     

    You say classes are included in your price, but if you're looking to get opinions of experienced climbers, they're not gonna care about classes. If you want to go the "full fitness gym" route with the rock wall collecting dust in the corner, then sure, offer climbing classes to your members - just don't let someone incompetent teach them. The last thing we need is more people at the crags getting in trouble because they got a 2-hour class at their gym.

     

    But, I live in Beaverton area, I would probably stop by occasionally for a day pass if the location was close & convenient enough for me. I'm lazy and have limited time, so I'll go wherever is closest.

    But for regular attendance, I wouldn't give up the $25/mo my annual costs me at SW.

    Looking for climbing couples with kids/babies

    in Kids

    Posted

    that sounds pretty similar to my situation - well, except maybe for the "avid" part. I like to get out as much as I can, which has been a lot less since we had our baby in October.

    We do know another couple that climbs a little & has a 9-month old, but haven't put together any outings yet in the winter months.

    But shoot me a note once things warm up a bit, and we'll hopefully be looking to get out.

    filter pump or tablets...?

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    I got giardia from my walmart tent.

    The tent leaked like crazy, so it was useless as a shelter, and I just used it to filter my water. I'm sure it was from the tent, because it's so obvious from the literature that untreated water doesn't pose any risk of giardia.

    Sport beater rope recommendations

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    yeah, i'd stay away from the Petzls...it was the Petzl Zephyr with all the sheaths falling apart, but the other models are still too pricey.

     

    if you don't have a brand preference, check spadout.com for deals on 60M ropes in the 9.5-9.9 range.

    I've heard surprisingly good things about the Mad Rock ropes, and those have a pretty attractive MSRP of $120 for 9.8x60

    [TR] Beacon Rawk - Bitch Slapped on the Axe of Karma (5.10c A3 III) 11/8/2008

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted

    The differnce is I've only trundled significant rocks that have been absolute death hazard or that are so loose there is no possibility of climbing through / over it safely. I've never in my life deliberately trundled a rock of any significance that was an essential component of a climb.

    Joe, I think the point is that you are the one who decided that those rocks were an absolute death hazard, and you are the one deciding that this flake in question is not. As someone alluded to earlier, your "absolute death hazard" is another person's "bomber hold", and your "bomber hold" is another person's "absolute death hazard". There's a level of subjectivity built into your decisions. It's entirely possible that the subjective decisions of others on the same topic will differ from the conclusion that you arrived at. It seems like you may have trouble accepting that.

     

    Same thing on the possibility of whether the traverse could be freed once the flake is gone. Your conclusion is "no", but some day a better/stronger climber may come along and decide "yes" and pull the flake and then free it. Even classic climbs with defining features do change over time.

     

    So, no matter how many times you re-phrase and re-state your arguments, they don't increase in validity. There's still a level of opinion built in.

     

    Now, on to this statement:

    And if anyone turned up to climb those lines who had half a brain and was concerned about it they'd go elsewhere for a bit.

    Normally, I don't think you're really all that elitist or anything, but the implications of this statement are a little over the top. So, if someone who wants to climb windsurfer sees someone up at the pipeline anchor trying to climb this traverse, and they aren't familiar enough to know that there's a loose flake up there and they should leave, then they only have half a brain? The elitist image that you may need to fight doesn't come from your desire to preserve the rock, or to preserve adventure...it comes from your ability to talk down to or about anyone who doesn't climb as much as you at Beacon, or doesn't have your experience level with those climbs, or style of climbing.

     

    Anyway, on the topic at hand, I've never looked at that flake, so my opinion is theoretical based on the description of the situation. What the right answer is in my mind is always going to depend on the unique situation, but my 2 cents is that if the flake can be yarded off the cliff by a climber (either free or aid), either in a stance, or under body weight or pulling, then it should go. But it'd be inappropriate to use a hammer or any other means of mechanical advantage.

    There are examples in the area of loose & wiggling blocks on heavily travelled routes that have been there for years, and will continue to be there. So I think if you can't get it off with body weight or a good tug, it isn't going to go anytime soon. (With the caveat that freeze/thaw cycles do have an impact and it'd need to be re-evaluated down the road).

    And sure, respecting that the route was accomplished before with the flake in place is important, but when they arrive at a position like that, any self-respecting climber will still value their own life and safety more than they value the history of the route, no matter how classic or obscure the route may be.

     

    But in the end, Joseph, if you're attached to the possibility of free climbing the route, and you're worried that someone else freeing or aiding the climb is going to pull that flake off, then it's entirely on you to just get on the route and get it done before anyone else has an impact. Regardless of how many people have travelled over that traverse before, you can't tell someone else to not get on a route, or how to climb a route, just to ensure that it's preserved in the state that you want it. It's not your rock.

    To the fathers......

    in Spray

    Posted

    Hey Kevin - congratulations man!

     

    You beat me by a few days.

     

    I'm not normally one to spend much time in the spray forums, but i had to spray about this: my little guy showed up yesterday.

    He's not so little actually: 9lb 13oz.

    Mommy and Baby are both doing well and getting some well-earned rest now.

    Cam Doubles

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    since you have a full set of nuts already, i'd agree with the people who are recommending that you get a 0.75, 1, and 2 for your doubles. and don't bother with the tri-cams for now.

     

    but also, be sure to shop around, and you might find that you get get more than 3 cams after all. you can always find online sales or coupons to get stuff at 20% off or more

    Mt. Hood Resort Skiing

    in the *freshiezone*

    Posted

    nice thread - here are my opinions:

     

    Timberline: nice for kids and learning. The terrain is pretty mellow, so it can get boring for more advanced skiers, but it's probably good for families.

     

    Ski Bowl: it can suffer from low elevation in mediocre snow years, and the lifts are slow. But, it's the closest & cheapest & least crowded. When the snow is good, I think it is the best bet. It's also the most convenient to get to for after-work skiing if you're a working stiff in portland like most of us.

     

    Meadows: Probably the largest amount of fun/interesting terrain. But it's too expensive for day passes, and way too crowded on weekends (plus is an extra 20-30 minutes to get there in typical weekend traffic). So, I personally think it's only worth it if you get the season pass and can ski mid-week days all winter.

     

    So I'd go with the Fusion pass too. You could do the ski school at either timberline or ski bowl, and then take the shuttle between the two if the snow conditions warrant.

     

    Also, for side/back-country, I think Timberline & Ski bowl are much more accepting of people skinning inbounds, or using their lifts to access out-of-bounds areas. Meadows ski patrol is more adamantly against it.

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