wildbillc

I currently use a mini traxion for a top rope solo belay device. In the past I have used a jumar and a shunt, but the mini traxion gives me the most confidence, especially on the overhangs. The m-traxion is a hauling device, am I out of control using it for TR soloing???

I need to get in shape for a couple of upcoming trips, looking for someone interested in lead climbing or cleaning behind me. I lead up to 10+. Great chance to get some gear handling in even if you don't lead that hard... Any takers? Cody

Hey retired and Corvallisclimb, noticed corvallis is interested in replacing bolts... beings the menagerie is a ground up bolting ethic and I would gues the route does not have alot of bolts on it anyway, whats the call on replacement of bolts? Certainly no additional bolts should be added.

Isn't the Salathe a bit of a stretch for ones first big wall, seems more reasonalbe to get on something like the west face of leaning tower and earn your badge prior to the real deal.

Think I got it covered for red rocks, turns out I only have the 19th available, thanks for the responces. Hey Retired, how much do I owe you for those comments, or what scrary pitches will you make me lead???

Hey Mellisa, I posted, climbing partner, "Red Rocks mid March", check it out. I may be up for a day in the canyons and never say no to a party. Cody

I am going to be in Vagas mid march and hope to hook up with someone for a day of climbing. I lead sport 11- and trad 10+ , enjoy climbing at all levels. Have climbed: Levitation 29, Eagle dance, solor slap, bulahs book Epenephrine, Dream of the wild turkeys, Yellow brick road, refried brains, Crimpson... Would love to climb prince of darkness or hook up for a afternoon of single pitch sport climbing. Last time I hooked up with a unknown partner at red rocks I draged him up the first three pitches of prince of darkness prior to bailing, Hope to avoid reliving that experience. Cody

OK, I am no mountaineer but assuming the leader is not seriusly hurt seems the easiest and safest method would be for him to self rescue by simply jug out. Hauling off a snow anchor (up to 3X anchor load) to pull the leader out seems like a last resort, especially with a two man team. But then I gues you wouldn't get to practice your rescue rescue system and isn't that what mountaineering is all about?

Many of those are impressive routes to be done alone in a day, Impressive link ups. I used to go to red rocks and climb as many routes as I could per day, after 3 days of hard climbing my trip was pretty much over. Now days I take a week and start out slow, take warm up day of easy sport, a long multi pitch route, a rest day, hard multi pitch day... My objective is to get alot of routes in durring the whole trip, but then I am just a mortal climber.

The sp is a nice devise for self belay lead climbing but seems much less versatal then the gri for aid. In aid the gri is used for self belay leading, belaying, and jugging, when short fixing you can leave it on the rope all day long whether you are leading or following. The sp is a bit of a hassle putting on and off the rope and the aspect of having to gain some fall speed prior to locking it up can shake you up a bit. Either one you choose will work, the key with bothe is to ALLWAYS TIE A BACK UP KNOT (thats allso the key to them feeding correctly). CP

Hey, I can be human allso, I just have big plans for the end of Sept and have some lost time to make up for. No takers? Good trad leading practice, even if you just want to follow/clean.

5.10 trad leader looking for early morning partner for the columns . The routine will be fast and furius, 6 leads and a couple of TR's, and then limp to work, can that be done in 1.5 hours? Sept 6th - Sept 22. Let me know if your up to it. Cody

Two grade IV in two days... Most likely you could but it might be more fun to get used to the rock on a couple of sport climbs and something tasty like Dark Shadows (5.8 trad 3 pitches)for your first day and then do one of the five star long routes the second day. I don't think it is nessasary to spend the night on any of the grade IV, allways seems like alot more work to bring the bivy gear and as chanard says for epinephrine "if you bring bivy gear you will use it..." just leave camp early and have a turn around time.

Nice long routes there, what grade are you looking for? Bulas book into sollar slab can be combined for a total of 10+ pitches and goes at 5.9 - 5.6, Refried brains 5.9 for 7+ pitches, frog land 5.8 (never done it due to traffic) Epinephrine 5.9 grad V? climb to the top of the tower for 8 pitches (by the book) or top out by doing all pitches 15 -20. eagle dance 5.10 7 pitches... The list goes on and on at red rocks. If your going prior to late october try to pick long routes in the shade. Unless your planning on spending the night on a route you should make sure that you have a turnaround time, for instance top of the 6 pitch by 2pm or wrap off. don't take my ratings or pitch numbers to seriusly Im sure theres some errors. Give me a belay and I will break out the red rocks select. Mon or Wed mornings early work well.

Sorry to see you didn't get a partner for the trip, I would love to make it to the bugs in the next couple of years.