alexbaker

I used one in sub-freezing last weekend. About 20 deg maybe. Although not real cold, it performed awesomely. The pot that came with mine was just a tad short for filling a Nalgene. Other than that, the snow was dry but I got water remarkably fast. I recommend buying an extra long spoon for this one. all in all, i was very impressed. Alex

Wow. Thats crazy. Maybe you camped in a different spot than us. I noticed there was a somewhat large camp on the normal route side of the glacier ( i think). Maybe that was the one in your picture? Anyway, we camped directly below the glacier, and crossing in the morning without crampons would be horrendous, nearly impossible, at least in the icy condition we found it. Anyway, im just reminiscing at this point, Im sure you know what your talking about. Did you meet Daniel Lopez in base camp? He has the huge blue tents, great guy to make friends with. Have a good trip. alex

The polish traverse requires crampons. Trust me. Also, the direct is almost always in better condition than the regular route. DO NOT GO UP THERE WITHOUT CRAMPONS.

Sent you an email.

Check out acopa. Ive tried many, many shoes, and acopa are by far the stickiest, most sensiteve and comfortable shoe out there. Before them, i thought most rubbers were pretty similar. not true. try em out. alex

Get a hilti and some "5-peices". Pretty much go anywhere...

What is the BCD rated? For free the first move is definitely the crux. Running start brings the rating down, im sure. However, I have not climbed it and i think it would be near impossible to free. And as ivan says, pound in pro or even screw in pro would be best. Tell me, will ice screws work if i want to aid the first moves of BCD?

If you know of any, post up! Nailing, hooking, clean, mungy, whatever. Ahhh, sick days.

Im the opposite. I want to be out climbing more than anything right no, but "eh-eh", im reading about dolphins.

Holy shit, i cant believe i just read that "list". The dolphin, absolutely classic.

Yeah, im sure this year the cracks will be filled with tons o grimy crap, if you can make even make it to the base safely. Jeez, not even worth climbin there this year. not to mention the hunters... honestly.

Or anywhere. All i really want to do is stand in aiders and shiver.

Just lookin for a ride, not necessarily a partner. I could leave friday sometime but must be back on sunday. thanks, alex jabaker@pdx.edu 605-390-3739

I live in ptown and would be happy to do some work as well. Just shoot me a pm if need be. alex

I was up there not last season but the season before. Email me-- jabaker@pdx.edu if you have questions, etc.

hehehehe. yes, that one. dirty harry, please explain.

Is it out? I think they should seriuosly consider changing the rating of spiderman from a 3 pitch 5.7 to a one pitch 5.6c/d. Also, that crack at the begining of the west face of monkey face is misgraded. (The real west face) I think it felt much more like C1+ than 5.11. I mean seriuosly, who rated that shit? Is it too late to change it? Oh ya, to whoever is making the new book. Make sure you still call the west face variation the 13a variation. I love telling girls in the parking lot i climbed the 13a on monkey face. Oh ya, and to all the people who sit at morning glory wall with down coats on in the summer heat while their dog chews on my rope, wtf? I dont hate you, your probably a good person, but i just dont understand. Thanks for listening alex

i met annabelle when she was an acon-slog-ua. Talkative girl, didnt carry much gear (guides did), but definitely had the attitude like, "im gonna get this fucker done". And she did. Anyway, to do what she did would be real hard, no doubt, even in the style she did it.

northwest passage is on monkey face right? starts on the west face for first pitch and then turns the corner? anyway, does it go clean at that rating? also, is there any free climbing? thanks one more thing- is bubbas doable without that hanger(see above), and does anyone care if i was to replace it?

Sweeet! Other people that want to aid at smith. !Layedback (or anyone), how was bubbas? Decent belay bolts? Still A3? I would imagine large angles, true?

nail whatever the fuck you want to. just respect everyone else that may use that area for whatever reason.

werd

dude, i free soloed this 5.11 once, and fell a bunch. Even from the top. Luckily, when i free solo i like to attach myself to a mini traxion and a fixed line. hot? no, i took my shirt off but blinded all the local bums that hang out at rocky butte.

for those using the ushba, check supertopo.com good thread, ushba failed.

hmmm. side to side. i havent done a route that traversed enough to find that out. i do understand the idea of having only one little clutch between you and the ground. but, i know of pros that do it so it must be completely safe and fail proof. right. anyway, this topic has been beat to shit eh? go out there and learn for yourself i say, then tell us when then thing breaks. good luck friends