eldiente

I've heard rumors of a route talking a direct line up the East Buttress of North Early Winter Spire but I can't find very good beta on it. Anyone climbed this route or know anything about it? I heard it was around 5.9, 11 pitches. I'm familiar with the area but have a hard time picturing where exactly this route comes up or where it starts. Any info would be great. Thanks Nate

Link to my climbing/sailing site. I use my boat as a way to travel to the crag so it goes in there. Enjoy. http://web.mac.com/eldiente/iWeb/Home/Start.html

I'm driving down Saturday night or early Sunday AM on the 23rd. email me if you'd like to bum a ride down. natetack@gmail.com Nate

Here we go. I'm looking to do some very part-time work in Squmish this upcoming summer and was wondering if anyone had any insight. I'm ok with any type of work but I'm trying to keep it to just a few days a weeks so I can have plenty of time to climb. I'm from the States so I'm trying to get a handle on how difficult it will be to get a work permit. What about doing labor and getting paid under the table to bypass all the paperwork? Any idea on how a foreigner would go about getting a day labor job up there? Any help would be great.

Here we go. I'm looking to do some very part-time work in Squmish this upcoming summer and was wondering if anyone had any insight. I'm ok with any type of work but I'm trying to keep it to just a few days a weeks so I can have plenty of time to climb. I'm from the States so I'm trying to get a handle on how difficult it will be to get a work permit. What about doing labor and getting paid under the table to bypass all the paperwork? Any idea on how a foreigner would go about getting a day labor job up there? Any help would be great.

Partner and I are heading down to Smith for the weekend. If anyone needs a ride down we've got room for two more people. Email me as I don't check my PM that often. natetack@gmail.com

Thanks for the good info. I was really wanting to do the full ridge and minimize the amount of time on the ice. I'm not opposed to brining some crampons, but I hate to lug around the hardware for what otherwise should be a dry climb.

I'm thinking of doing mount stuart via the north ridge this weekend and was looking for a bit of info. As I'm short on time I'd like to go car to car in one long day. I'd like to to travel light and am wondering if it is possible to cross the glacier without an ax this time of year. Any thoughts?

I've heard rumors of an early opening if the nest is empty? Any thoughts on this?

I'm really wanting to go up to Beacon and climb this weekend (July 4th) but I'm guessing that it is still closed for nesting. Any chance of Beacon being open for climbing this weekend? I'm looking to sail my boat up there and would be glad to meet up with anyone for a climb/beer, that is of course if Beacon is open. Nate

Anything would help. Pitch by pitch beta would be great but even a brief description would be of help. Are the cracks fairly continuous? I've heard rumors of harsh OW up top? Is this true?

Were thinking of getting on Hyperspace this weekend but are having trouble finding any good info. The book I have gives a rating and thats about it. Does anyone know anything about this route or have any ideas on where I could get some beta on this route. I'd love to hear from people that have climbed this route. Nate

Looking for anyone that would want to climb Smith on Sunday or Monday or both. Fire me an email. natetack@gmail.com

I've got to work on Saturday but will be off Sunday Monday, I mostly climb trad but clipping bolts is good fun too. Fire me an email. natetack@gmail.com

rango Flex Cams: Size 1-8. $25 A full size range of some great lightweight cams from Trango. I bought these cams two years ago as a supplement to my rack of Friends and Aliens, to use on climbs that required three or four of the same size piece. These are nice cams for doubling up on sizes as they are incredibly light and will fit cracks from tight fingers to big fists. The cams are in good condition; some of the cams have only been placed a few times. The only exception to this is the number 3 cam, the stem is a little bent from some rough cleaning. All cams were recently cleaned and oiled. The Carabineers are a mix of wire and bent gates, all are of the light variety. There is also two Clog cams mixed in here as well that have only been used a few times. Overall these are solid cams that I would feel comfortable falling on and should last for years to come. I am in the Portland area but will ship anywhere in the US $25 without Carabineers $30 with Carabineers or make me an offer on the whole rack. Thanks eldiente@io.com

Any beta on what type of shoes to wear? Is it worth bringing comfy approach shoes for the low-angle pitches and put on climbing shoes for the "real" climbing? Or is it better to suffer all day in climbing shoes and just try to move real quick like? Any help would be great.Thanks!