jport

There was a dominant couloir that we could see (from Illumination Saddle) at the base of Yokum Ridge. I suspected that it was probably Leuthold. Our original plan was to hit Leuthold. Although that soon changed as we traversed below the Reid Headwall routes... conditions seemed ideal for climbing that face. Both of us quickly agreed on a route and went for it! I only had limited knowledge about the "route"... which gully?, steepness?, top-out location? I knew there were lots of options, though. Weather was excellent and the snow was in good shape (with the exception of some short sections of knee-deep powder. Our route began climbing the face before the largest rock outcropping at the top of the Reid Glacier. My understanding is that in order to reach Leuthold, you have to traverse below that outcropping... is that right? We also topped-out along the ridge of West Crater Rim. We followed that ridge upward, approximately fifty yards to the point that Yokum Ridge intersects. Regarding the "Green Route", it was sustained steep snow (up to +/- 50 degrees) and ice (up to vertical). There were two steps of ice that we had to negotiate. Each step came at distinctive "hourglasses". The first was a 10-foot section of +/- 70 degrees bare, dense ice. The second was a 15-foot section of vertical, nasty rime. That second chute was about 4-5 feet wide, so stemming solved the problem. In all, we climbed through three "hourglasses". Keep in mind, the majority of the route is exposed to ice and/or rock fall. Even with cold temperatures, there was a constant shower on us... nothing bigger than maybe baseball size. This route is definitely a "no fall zone"... especially if you're climbing solo, like us. Run-outs are long and usually lead to drop-offs. If there is any doubt or lack of confidence, those slopes should be protected by pickets or screws. Otherwise, it's pretty exhilarating climbing... lots of fun! Photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/11863105@N04/sets/72157604080114354/detail/

The Marble Mountain Sno-park is currently closed. Check current conditions at: http://www.fs.fed.us/gpnf/recreation/winter/current-conditions.shtml I'm not sure about the road conditions leading up to the Climber's Bivouac...?

I'm not convinced that the green line is Leuthold Couloir. Compare with these photos from summitpost.com: http://www.summitpost.org/image/175215/156300/entering-leuthold-couloir.html http://www.summitpost.org/image/274835/156300/lower-leuthold-couloir-2-mount-hood-2-2-07.html We passed through several "hourglasses"... all of which were more narrow than anything I've seen of Leuthold: http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/4569/2224/1600/in%20the%20hourglass.jpg Additionally, doesn't Leuthold only have one "hourglass"?

I'm not sure if this is the start to the standard Reid Headwall Route... perhaps it's a variation? Can anyone confirm which line most climbers take from where this photo was taken? At this point, we were traversing the upper Reid Glacier (approximately half way between Illumination Saddle and Leuthold Couloir). We opted for the route indicated by the green line.

Illumination Rock, 3/8/08

Conditions on the west face of Mt. Hood are excellent right now! Yesterday (March 8th) we climbed Reid Headwall. There are a few short section of thigh-deep powder, but the majority of that route was styrofoam or ice. There is a lot of rime ice on all the vertical rock formations. It's not really an issue in the couloirs... EXCEPT, if you encounter steeper ice. We negotiated one, 10-foot section of rotten ice with powder build-up. Luckily that section was narrow and we were able to get through by stemming. There was another 10-foot section of bare ice (maybe 70-degrees). We descended the south side face (just west of the Old Chute and Pearly Gates). Preston skied the face while I downclimbed. That aspect is nicely consolidated right now. I'm not sure what the upcoming warmer weather will do...? I strapped on the skis at the Hogsback and we made our way down through chunky ice and more dense snow.... not very fun! Those conditions persisted until we got to the groomers of Timberline. Also, Illumination Rock has much more exposed rock than the previous photo, taken on Feb. 29th. I'll post a picture once I upload them onto my computer.

Gonna pass on those tools... perhaps you've already unloaded them.

Left Wy'East lot at 8am... Skinned up the Palmer and took a break at the top of the chair... Continued up; under clear skies and slight breezes... Took off the skis on the east side of Crater Rock and kept going to the Hogsback... Scoped out the climbing routes from there. Looks like the Hogsback's positioning is very similar to last years location... We didn't bring pro. or ropes, so we decided not to tackle the steep, rime-covered slot that is the Pearly Gates or traverse the loaded slopes to the Old Chute. Our group skied, boarded, telemarked, and side-slid (as I did) from the Hogsback. The snow was is wonderful condition and made for a very nice descent. Beautiful day and great company!

I just wrote a new post in search of a second Grivel Alp Wing Lite tool. If I cannot find a second one, I will be very interested in your Cobras. I'll give it one week before getting back to you. Thanks!

I'd like to find a second Alp Wing Lite ice tool (with adze). Grivel has stopped making them! Let me know if you're willing to part with one or know where I can find one. Thanks!

Throw me in with the tigers! I'm ready to go! (I know I have a lot to learn, but I'm looking forward to the process!)

I've heard wonderful things about the Wallowa backcountry in winter. I'm heading out the Wallowas in a few weeks... psyched to find out what it's really like!

I'm 5'-10" and 160 lbs... curious how my 177cm Atomic Kongurs will perform this winter??? Hopefully they won't be too long.

Hey JL, I'm equipped with a new AT set-up! Gonna have to get into the backcountry with you and letsroll sometime soon. Peace!

Checked out your blog... good stuff! I gotta get back into B.C. and the Bugaboos!

Way to go guys! Nice line! I'm wondering what you encountered midway up that route... your photo shows that you traversed right below a rock face. Was there a pitch of vertical ice that you navigated around?

Reads like a reasonable day-climb. I'll have to look into hitting this up. Suitable for a January ascent?

Cruiser is a good climb. There are several options on the actual summit block. We scoped out the 5.7 variation, but opted for the east face (not sure the actual name?). If I recall, there's a 5.8 variation too. I don't have the guide book in front of me to confirm that, though. The climbing is straight-forward, but protection is difficult to come by. There's lots of downward sloping shelves and not many cracks or pockets for gear... just means a little more run-out.

Nice work Kip! Keep the TR's coming. I saw your photo in the Bend paper the other day, too... you're becoming a bit of a celebrity, eh? I was with "letsroll" on 9 O'Clock. We were able to climb the couloir (one full-pitch of steep snow... lots of fun!), but turned back at the saddle because of time. By the time we got back to the car, it was definitely a full day. Keep me posted with your climbing plans. Maybe we could hit something together!... relive old times!

Well done! Tapping into your reserves for motivation and energy in an empowering experience... your body can definitely do more than your mind thinks. Gotta love the long-mileage adventures. You may want to also consider some of the classic cascade circumnavigation trails: Timberline Trail (Hood), Loowit (St. Helens), Wonderland (Rainier)... lots of possibilities.

I think we're all falling into the same trap here: over-generalizing climbing clubs. Let's not be mistaken... Explorer Post 58 is an independent organization for teens. Our program should not be categorized with other large-scale, adult climbing clubs in the Northwest. Post 58 is truly unique in its approach and methods. It's primary purposes are: 1. To provide Post members with opportunities to learn climbing and wilderness skills through outdoor experiences in a safe environment. 2. To provide Post members with an opportunity to learn group living and leadership skills. 3. To enhance personal growth and self awareness. 4. To teach respect for the wilderness. Hopefully we can all see the benefit of teaching teens safe practices in the mountains and at the crag. Many of the lessons we learn in the mountains extend into other aspects of our lives... hopefully making us more aware of ourselves, others, and the environment. My original intent for this post was to simple make people aware that there is a very, very active youth climbing club in Portland. Perhaps the accusations and debating can continue in another thread. "Climbaround" thanks for your support!

I've had no problems with my Montrail shoes is snow. Plus they have "Gryptonite" rubber soles... very sticky!

I've been using my Montrail Hurricane Ridge XCR shoes this summer. They're relatively stiff for a trail runner, so I've been able to strap on crampons for short snow/ice approaches. I'm also able to slop through puddles without worrying about soaking my socks. So far, they've performed well. After switching from boots to trail runners, I'll never go back to boots (unless I'll be carrying a large pack... and need more support). IMHO, for weekend outings trail runners are ideal. Less weight on your feet = more mileage!

Bringing this thread full-circle... I've decided to get the Dynafit Verticals without brakes. We'll see how the season goes with leashes. Thanks for all the advice and opinions!

Tunnel Vision at Red Rocks is a fun 5.7 multi, too.