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syklone

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Posts posted by syklone

    Timberline Trail conditions?

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted

    Any thoughts on how the T-Line trail looks right now? I'm taking my non-climber girlfriend for 3 days on Monday, and am just wondering how much snow (and possibly bitching) to expect.

     

    I'd say that the south side should be clear in most places, with some patches on the north side? But I'm just talking out of my ass.

     

    Any one been up that way recently?

    Troy

    Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    The car is located above and climbers left of Bite the Bullet, and its just the firewall, so no seats for lounging. Too bad, it'd be cool to belay from a comfy seat.

     

    Bill: I'm all for rebolting those shitty rusty things that seem to liter the place. I'd even throw down some good old fashioned cash to buy good SS stuff. As long as its existing stuff that is being upgraded, I don't think that people should have any problem with the new gear, I hope.

     

    Just a general rant on bolts at rocky though: All this chopping that goes on just seems to stop any improvements. People are now forced to stop, ask questions, get opinions and whatnot before they replace a 1/4 thats older than me? WTF? That just straight up safety common sense. I was soloing Blueberry Jam on Monday, and when I was rapping over the edge to find anchors to rig a TR, I saw the thickest fucking bolts ever. They had been chopped. Must have been 5/8 or 3/4. They were HUGE. I saw why they were chopped too. An OLD pin and semi-good 3/8 blot were below and to the left a few feet, as listed in the Olsen Guide. These huge bolts would have made rigging a TR easier from above, and replaced crappier gear nearby. I dont get it. I ended up rigging on the bolt and pin, with a loonnggg cordlette to a tree nearby to back things up. Somebody tried to make the anchor more SAFE, and instead the bolts were chopped in favor of what? Tradition? Sorry thats just plain BS. If you want to argue that putting extra bolts on an existing route is bad ethics, fine do that. There is some merit there. But anchors are there to be solid, and they need replaced over time with better, safer gear. If the FA put in 1/4's you wouldn't replace it with 1/4's, would you? And if there is a pin that's going to pop one of these days, put in a new set of anchors that will last 50 years.

     

    John: I'd be all for participating in the brush clearing fun times. I've actually grown fond of the damn place in the past few months.

    Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    Bill: I think a note to the PBC is a good idea. If anything, it will let them know that there are serious safety issues around the cliffs, and that students hanging out there(especially drinking) are putting themselves at risk. I think a shorter letter would get your point across better though. If I may be so bold as to edit it down a bit, I'll do that.

     

    Climbing tomorrow? I hear broughtons after 3 with Ivan. I'm down for that.

     

    Troy

    Rocky Butte rockfall warning

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted

    Last night while waiting for the peeps to show up at the Butte, a lady pulled up and asked if I climbed there often. Anyway, she lives in the house furthest east above the cliffs, and said that she had seen a large boulder slowly moving closer to the cliff edge next to her house. Now, I havn't climbed that far down on the cliffs to know route names that might be affected, but she said she has seen a guy out there quite regularly who times himself doing laps on a route underneth the suspect boulder.

     

    She was really quite nice, and was just concerned about safety, and not about climbers walking through her flower garden to get to anchors or anything. I forgot her name, Jean, Jane, or something like that. I said I would let people know, and maybe take a good look at it to see if it needs to go over the edge if it is a real safety threat, and its not just her house that is slowly going over the edge. So if anyone climbs near there regularly, take a look at the thing and post if you think it needs to go, and we can organize a trundeling party or something.

     

    Also watch for loose holds out there too. I pulled out a shoebox sized rock on the Silver Bullet bluff last night.

    keep illegals legal?? WTF?

    in Spray

    Posted

    As I understand things, many illegals have forged visas, social security numbers, etc. So when they are hired, the employers are withholding taxes - but the illegal worker has no way to claim any benefits.

     

    If this is true - how do we hold the EMPLOYER accountable? If he looks at the required paperwork (birth certificate, social security card, driver's license, work visa). And its all in order, what can we expect him to do? Report suspicions?

     

    Is this right? Is it fair? (They're not the same thing)

     

    You are right about the visas and SSN's. Want a new one? $60, Woodburn OR. Hell I could even direct you to the correct block. Every illegal I know (5 off hand) has forged papers. As an employer, when you send in SSN's to the Feds, and it comes up bad, the resoponse from them is along the lines of "this number is not correct. Please give us more information if you have it." End of story. Do employers know that certain people are illegal? No doubt. But what is the real problem here then? Taking jobs from Americans? Nope, they don't want to work at Taco Bell past age 17. Getting gov benifits without paying taxes? Thats the biggest lie out there right now. Illegals with bad SSN's pay Social Security that is NEVER collected. EVER. They are helping to shore up a faltering system(not to get in to a discussion of SS) They pay taxes. Sales tax, excise tax, alcohol tax, cigarette tax, income tax (not much if you claim 10 dependants at the fed level, but some gets withheld at the state) The point is, they add significantly to the economy.

     

    And, any one who knows economics should realize that for the US to support the number of illegals that we do, we must also have that number of excess jobs too. Market economics. If I could get illegals to work for me at half the cost of legit Americans, no shit I would go that route. The Americans that do the types of jobs that most illegals do arn't worth shit for wages.

    Sno Park Permits in WA - Who's got one?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Here's the relevant Washington law on the issue:

     

    " WAC 352-32-260

     

    Sno-park permit.

    Only those vehicles properly displaying a valid winter recreational area parking permit issued by the state of Washington or by another state or nation which honors a Washington state winter recreational area parking permit shall park in designated winter recreational parking areas: Provided, That Washington licensed vehicles shall be required to display a Washington state winter recreational area parking permit. Those vehicles in violation of this rule shall be subject to the application of RCW 46.61.587. Any violation of this section is an infraction under chapter 7.84 RCW. "

     

    I would request a contested hearing. At the hearing argue that the WAC 352-32-260 applies only to winter time, as stated explicitly in the code. Alternatively, argue that even if the code applies to non-winter time it is unconstitutionally vague as applied to the facts in your case because it failed to put you, an ordinary citizen, on notice that the sno-park permit requirement applies in a non-winter season.

     

    The code doesn't say anything it only being applicable in wintertime. Read it again. It only says that to park in the desiganated area you need the permit. According to the wording that you quoted, they can ticket you for not having the pass in July if they want, as long as it is designated a winter recreation area.

    Climbing in Cuba?!

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Getting into Cuba is not hard at all. You can get flights from Mexico City, and from major Canadian hubs. The Cubans love American money, so they really want you to come. They don't even stamp your passport, so there isn't really any trouble there either. I've really wanted to go for the past few years, but just never enough time...

    Denali Patches are In !!!!!!

    in The Yard Sale

    Posted

    What if I solo the Cassin Ridge naked via the direct bouldery start variation? I'm sorry, but I dont want the same sad-ass patch as the rest of the heathen gumby mule-train masses. Is there some sort of epaulettes or medallions.......ala Central African Dictator...... I can add on to signify my greatnitude?

     

    This is some funny shit. Epaulettes, lmao!!!

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