Janez_Ales

Met Graeme and Chris on Saturday morning at Railroad Pass and was thinking about their iced up rock climb while I was running around with another Chris between the bumps of Face Mt. and Locomotive as a part of a large VOC Mountaineering Camp. Most people ascended Locomotive. On our way out on Monday morning we met a group of a dozen women hiking up. It must have been the Monday morning rush hour... ;~J

Anybody Keen? 7-8.8.

Climb: Viennese - Clark Traverse-Upper Statlu, E to W Date of Climb: 7/31/2004 Trip Report: Great trip, two guys climbed Viennese N face on the same day, but did not find my watch I have forgoten on top of Viennese, so if you go there, check out west side of it and you might score a nice watch ;~!

If I do not go this weekend I will not see Bugs this year. So my last try to find somebody from Vancouver (or close to it) to drive out towards Invermere... I would like to do B.-C. route on South Howser. Have been in there a few times (C-G East face of Bugaboo, Furry Pink, Sunshine, McTech, East Ridge of Bugaboo, Pigeon) We should be able to swap leads... Walk in on Saturday - to the route, climb Sunday... Any keeners? J.

Hi Fluffy Kittens, Thanks to Brian and Andy for putting up a nice route. As I said on the wall I do not argue grades, to me they are more guidelines for nice lines that we choose (or not) to climb. However, I have to point out, that you simply must redpoint the route in order to downgrade it. J.

WI 5 will do (did it last week).

Clipping alternate strands makes a fall shorter if you blow a clip. My rule is that if I plan to clip two double ropes into single biner anywhere on the pitch I always clip them together. Otherwise the different lengths can cause one rope to damage the other in the common biner in case of a fall. This does not exclude from cliping them into the same bomber piece after using alternate clips, just use two draws (of different lengths) on that piece... All that said, if you clip them together all the time, why not use twins? True enough, except if there are three of you, then half of a twin is maybe a bit thin for your followers to sling their life on...

Use a double fishermans on a thick rope and a triple on the thin one. You can also back it up with a double fishermans on each tail. And it doesn't matter how long your rope(s) is(are) always have the belayer tie in or make a big knot of some sort on the free end of the rope.