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Posts posted by slogon

  1. Wow, that might be a ways over my head, A3? F--k that. Maybe I'll think about it after a few more years.


    Then try this one on for size - the "cheater enchainment" - Take tram up to Mt. Howard. Walk ridge to East Pk, continue walking ridge to Hidden Pk, continue walking ridge to Aeroid Mtn, head over to Pete's Point, then down and out E. Fork Wallowa River trail. No aid necessary.


    Seriously, you might look into the Elkhorns nearby if you haven't already, supposed to be some good granite there.

  2. If the pulley at (3) is 100% inefficient, then the system is still 3:1. If the pulley at (2) is 100% inefficient, then the system is only 2:1


    This seems like a good way to think of it (of course when I started reading this thread I would have put the pulley at point #1). Also, I've tried the little plastic pulley (liked the weight savings), but had some trouble with the rope coming off the pulley, maybe that depends on the particular biner shape.

  3. I found an online guide that spoke of the "best problems" on the hill. When I found them, I literally laughed out loud, they were such a pile of worthless shit. I'm tempted to take a grease gun up there and un-ruin the place. Did I mention that the trail running is great?


    Give us a link. I'd love to take a look for memories sake as in my Bellinghamster days I used to go up there desperately looking for climbable rock. Larrabee was always a good time though.

  4. I got a pair of the Schoeller WB400 pants and wasn't that thrilled with them. Took them lift skiing in the rain and they took absolutely forever to dry out after (thought it was always dry at Bachelor!). In general they are pretty good but I'd prob. go with the other thinner fabric and wear more under if necessary.

  5. soloing/hiking the dc route's biggest problem is all the teams you have to go around and pass.

    that is just unroped hiking.


    Check out the photos on the recent Little Tahoma trip report. Think I'll rope up for that hiking.


  6. Pup,

    A map I have shows Keenes Horse Camp about a mile due east of Horseshoe Lake on Spring Creek, about a mile north of the Killen Creek campground, so I think 1.5 miles to the trailhead is about right. Gotta get on the north ridge one of these days.

  7. Am looking to get out to some of the higher North Cascade peaks this summer, mainly in July and also August. Harder ones would include Bonanza, Shuksan, and Goode, easier ones might be Fernow, maybe Maude and Seven Fingered Jack. Pretty much looking at the standard routes on these. I'm in Portland, a pretty experienced intermediate climber. Let me know if you're interested. Looking at the 6/30 weekend for Shuksan.

  8. I just got a 40 meter Mammut Phoenix 8mm (a double rope) from Pro Mountain Sports - only place I've seen that has them. Light, and a bit more length. Should be good for 2 or 3, or doubling over for short rock pitches.

  9. I definitely like three minimum, but lots of others more experienced go with two and most probably safely. Even if I was confident I could get the other guy out, I'd sure like two above if I was in the hole and couldn't get out for some reason (probably not applicable, but the Wickwire story in Alaska comes to mind). Just my 2 cents.

  10. Been thinking along similar lines to you, but leaning toward a shorter (35m or better yet, 40m) half rope for glacier travel, 4th class running pro, and doubling up for short 5th sections (think Shuksan, some of the rocky Oregon volcanic peaks, Sahale). Could use with a rap cord also. Obviously I'd use a more serious rope for more serious climbs.


    Looked at some past threads, but my questions: 30m (see Mr. Phil's link) seems kind of short for glacier, say for 3 people, and a little longer (35m or 40m) seems better. Also, I assume there's no problem using a half rope as a twin (clipping through each piece) for 5th class. True?

  11. Just to clarify, the photo IS actually the Pearly Gates, aka the new chute. We (gt5816v and I) went up West Crater Rim and the Old Chute, descending the Pearly Gates (me in red in the photo). The "Old Chute" is a much more straightforward snow slope at the moment, especially for descending. Also, the shrund is starting to open, but still easily crossed. Fun in the sun!

  12. Just don't do like I did and leave your book in a cache lower down to save weight. Nothing like spending a week at 14K staring at the roof of the tent, reading candy bar wrappers, and stealing your tentmate's books whenever they were asleep/not looking! MP3 and/or AM/FM radio invaluable also.

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