John Frieh
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Posts posted by John Frieh
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Green lake snotel site at 6000'.
http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/mesowest/getobext.php?wfo=sew&sid=GRLW1&num=168&raw=0&dbn=m
Close to strobach but on the south side of the ridge.
kick, stab 'n scratch
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not so fast, the cody report sounds real gud
Maybe compared to the Hyalite report it does
this is the worst year in a long time for Cody -
Anyone want to put me out my misery with an update .. ice fallen down in all the tropical sunshine?
See its a little colder today - but was chatting to a ranger at Waterton Park and their main two ice climbs just fell down yesterday and are unlikely to reform. So wont be going there for a mini-vacation within a vacation. No ice and 100mph winds put me off Go north:
http://www.gravsports-ice.com/icethreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=12860#Post12860
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Anybody hike into Strobach yet?
I was probably the only one dumb enough to hike in there early season for the last two years!
It's good karma for future trips
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Roj said he climbed some stuff including a new line near source lake about a week ago. I could ask him for the details if you want.
Anybody hike into Strobach yet?
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Sweet jacket. XL? Lay off the weights dude!
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Trip: Hood - Devil's Kitchen HW
Date: 11/27/2012
Trip Report:
As of yesterday excellent conditions. Minimal post holing + actual WI made for a fine day out.
Stoked
Bonafide.
Rocksteady
A fine day at the office
Gear Notes:
Philly cheesesteak
Hair tie
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Pencil is close but needs at least another week.
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Trip: Canada - Polar Circus
Date: 11/17/2012
Trip Report Summary:
11/15-16: PDX -> Icefield Parkway
11/16: Laps on lower Weeping Wall
11/17: Polar Circus
11/18: Icefield Parkway -> PDX
Good times kicking ice season off with Mr Schmitz up north. Until next time
Some things never change...
Shaking the rust off
Intro Polar pitches
Breaking the rope out
Headed for the Pencil
Pencil barely touching
Turning the Pencil
Upper Tier
Ribbon Pitch
Homestretch
Gear Notes:
Petzl Lynx love
Approach Notes:
zoom zoom
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Little off topic but the Lorpen Trekking Expedition Sock are by far and away the best sock I have ever used. Only thing I wear climbing now
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Cloudcap road is gated for the winter.
daaaaaaaawwwwwwww! now only the 'smash n' grab' bitches can do it!
Considering it took you FOUR days to bumble up Space Shot I guess I won't be seeing you up there
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Looking for a recent photo of the North Face of Hood. Thanks in advance
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Thanks. Greatly appreciated
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Trip: Mt Wake (Ruth Gorge) - S Face via Johnson/Wake Col "The Cook Inlet" (FA)
Date: 10/22/2012
Summary: First Ascent of the South face of Mount Wake via the Johnson/Wake col on October 22 2012. John Frieh and Jess Roskelley. “The Cook Inlet” 4,500', V AI4 M4
Details: On October 21 around 4 pm, Jess Roskelley (Spokane, WA) and I, John Frieh (Portland, OR), flew from Talkeetna to the Ruth Glacier below Mt. Dickey in the Ruth Gorge. We were able to scope out two possible lines before it got dark. After some discussion we decided to attempt an unclimbed line on the south face of Mt Wake. On October 22 we crossed the schrund at 9 am (late start due to what little sun Alaska gets this time of year) and made slow but steady progress up to the Johnson/Wake col. We bypassed the serac (crux) on the climbers right with a few pitches of AI4 and 100% premium Ruth Gorge "cracker jack consistency" granite mixed climbing. From the col we climbed through some mixed bands (M4) to reach the summit of Wake shortly before sunset. Nine hours of daylight is as short as it sounds.
We retraced our steps back to the col where we took a coffee/perpeteum brew stop before continuing the descent into the night. Minus an almost unroped crevasse fall (me) it was largely uneventful. We reached our skis around midnight (15 hours skis to skis) where we opted for a nap before continuing the ski back to basecamp in the morning.
Later in the morning on the 23rd Paul Roderick of Talkeetna Air Taxi picked us up and brought us back to Talkeetna to make for a brief 40 or so hours in the range.
Many thanks to John Calder for the ANC logistics, Paul Roderick and the TAT crew, and Jess Roskelley for taking a chance climbing with a complete stranger. Jess is a solid climber who I look forward to climbing with again.
Also many thanks to my Gym Jones family for the continued guidance and encouragement. Much respect.
Home in the Range
Bedtime chores
October 22
Jess
Above the col
Jess's first Alaska First Ascent
Gear Notes:
Two FAs in Alaska in October both on Petzl Lynx; they are quickly becoming my favorite crampon.
Lots of Wild Squirrel
Approach Notes:
Smash and Grab style climbing in the Alaska Range would not be possible without the expertise and service that Paul Roderick and Talkeetna Air Taxi provides. The best of the best. Fly TAT!
The MAN: Paul Roderick
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Dave Burdick (AlpineDave) and myself will be giving a presentation for the Alpine Club of Canada Tuesday Oct 23rd in Vancouver BC. Full Details
We will be showing photos from Burkett Needle, Mt Burkett, Mt Dickey and likely some other stuff.
Would be stoked to have some cc.comers in the crowd... perhaps a pub club before or after?
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Trip: Mt Burkett - NW Face "Can't Knock the Hustle" (FA)
Date: 10/6/2012
Summary: First Ascent of the Northwest Face of Mt Burkett on October 6th 2012. John Frieh and Doug Shepherd. “Can’t Knock the Hustle” IV 5.8 M4 AI4
Details: During last year’s ascent of the East Arete of Burkett Needle I was able to scope out at least the start to a possible line on the Northwest face of Mt Burkett. That, coupled with Mr John Scurlock’s excellent photos, gave us just enough beta to warrant an attempt once a weather window was identified which, unfortunately, is often the crux of climbing in the Stikine. The Stikine attempted to “wait me out” all summer with a consistently crappy forecast before finally offering a weather window, thinking I had given up for the season. Nice try weather gods.
On October 5th Doug and I flew from SEA to PSG where stubborn cloud cover resistant to burning off resulted in us getting flown into the Burkett glacier late in the day. We used the few remaining hours of daylight to approach Mt Burkett and used the same camp Dave Burdick and I used in 2009. The following morning (Oct 6th) we rolled out of camp around 5:30 am (???) and after some crevasse crossing hi jinx (see below) we reached the Burkett Needle/Mt Burkett col. We promptly dropped over, descended until we found a logical point to gain the face.
Simul climbing blocks followed as we slowly unlocked the face. We found classic north face climbing: granite mixed climbing, ice and steep snow which reminded me of the NW face of Mt Stuart... only longer. We topped out around 4 pm (???) and after a few pics we rappelled and downclimbed the Golden Gully route. More glacier hi jinx, again in the dark, before finally hitting camp around 9 pm made for a ~16 hour camp to camp time.
The following morning we did the short hike down to pickup where Wally promptly grabbed us just before 11 and brought us back to Petersburg for a ~43 hour round trip.
The Northwest Face “Can’t Knock the Hustle” (IV 5.8 M4 AI4) represents the 6th ascent of Mt Burkett. Many thanks to Dieter Klose for support and allowing us to climb while the Icecap was “closed for the season” and to our pilot Wally from Temsco Air.
Lastly, a huge shout out to Doug for sucking it up and getting it done on this one considering he is 6 weeks post toe surgery.
John Frieh
Doug Shepherd
Pictures: Yes we have more. I will be showing them plus some from Mt Dickey on Oct 22 in Vancouver, BC (CANADA!) and sometime later this year at Mountain Gear in Spokane. If you're in the area I would be stoked if you can make it
Glacier travel hi jinx
Approaching the col
Low on the face
Higher on the face
Yes it was really windy
Gear Notes:
10 screws, #00 c3 -> #3 c4, rap material, picket
Wild Squirrel Vanilla Espresso
Approach Notes:
Wally is the man
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Pack the house!
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TONIGHT! Comp! Raffle with some primo prizes from NW Alpine, Black Diamond, Petzl, Mountain Shop and others!
FREE BEER
Starts at 5 pm!
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The weather sucks! Come to the ice festival! Colin Haley TONIGHT!
Lots of PRIME equipment from Black Diamond, Petzl, NW Alpine, Ice Holdz and others up for grabs
You can still get tickets online!
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For those of you in already entered in the comp: you currently have a very good chance of winning new ice tools!
For those you who have not... enter soon before it sells out! See you all tomorrow at the Mazamas!
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Great drill. Where'd you get the batteries? I need to upgrade
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Interesting conversation.
2 cents: though living in a mecca for alpine climbing Will Gadd continues to focus on the "cragging". I know other posters on this board can point to other climbers that are as Blake proposes "disconnected"
Really... it's like any other sport. People gravitate to what challenges and inspires them. Go catch the latest Reel Rock film... the climbing (and even some "non" climbing) was varied but the passion, commitment and excitement of each climber was equal.
Different strokes...
Baruntse - WTF
in The Gear Critic
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