jpark42

Awesome trip report. I especially like the commentary

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Yes, it is the usual suspect. PS: We lost some gear up there. If any knows some one that did the route the week before we did ask them if they found any gear up there.

Trip: Snow Creek Wall - HYPERSPACE Date: 7/6/2010 Trip Report: (When reading this trip report it helps to imagine a monster truck rally announcers voice. That is all) HYPERSPACE HYPERSPACE HYPERSPACE....You've gone to ORBIT and you've experienced the gripping terror of going to OUTER SPACE but have you experienced the Astroman of Washington HYPERSPACE!!!! (Hyperspace is in the shadowed corner) PITCH 1: Starts Remorsefully and sees you shooting into Outer Space. PITCH 2: Two variations present themselves. You can either experience the EXTREME pinky and ring finger locks of Psychopath(11a) or enjoy the bolt protected/hidden crack out left(8+). Either way prepare to go beyond Outer Space to HYPERSPACE HYPERSPACE HYPERSPACE!!!! (Psychopath variation 11a) PITCH 3: Prepare for your trip to HYPERSPACE by climbing cracks to the left of two roofs (5.9). Belay on top of large detached block (It's actually the second roof you climb around....scary isn't it) PITCH 4: Climb the layback/broken flakes (10b) until able climb around a corner to a hanging slab where two options present themselves. Option 1: Juggy and slightly overhanging 11b/c (Think sport climbing except you are placing gear. A lot of fun if you can handle the EXTREMENESS of it) Option 2: Go across hanging slab to layback (10c) and awkward/vegetated climbing. Either option takes good gear. PITCH 5: YOUR FINAL CHOICE!!!! Either continue shooting into HYPERSPACE HYPERSPACE HYPERSPACE or go right towards the bolt (Iconoclast 10c) If shooting into Hyperspace is your choice continue laybacking to the EXTREME knob step over(height dependent) allows you to step left around a arete. Climb around the last guardian THE TREE OF DEATH and belay to the left of a large chimney system. (The start of pitch 5 layback. Notice how extreme I look. Notice the guardian to the upper left. You can almost sense hyperspace COMING!!!) PITCH 6: HYPERSPACE BEGINS!!!! Two crack systems present themselves. Eventually you want to end up in the right crack system as the left one ends up in a pricker bush...uggg. Chimney moves bring you to the CHAMBER (can you feel the pressure? I know could). Awkward offwidth moves (Book says 10d but the book is full of shit) brings you to face holds in the corner which allow you to reach really really far around the right corner to a hidden finger crack and layback ( You may need some aid for this section or in my case a lot of aid). A couple of wild stemming moves allow you to gain access to a layback corner(10a). After 20ft take a hidden foot leg and build a sketchy belay at a hollow detached flake( a couple of nuts and .5 C4) or continue along footleg until able to access better gear but more awkward belay to the left(Read: hanging and uncomfortable). (On top of the pressure chamber) PITCH 7: Climb cracks at the end of the foot ledge until able to pull a short roof (one 10a move) and easier climbing to the top. PITCH 8: To finish your hyperspace experience you must do a funky dance like this guy. to this song (DISCLAIMER: All descriptions in this trip report are subjective and up to the authors' interpretation of the events. Also, the author of this trip report makes no claims to whether or not the climbing beta was obtained in "one" trip. Don't believe me....Here's a picture of the author: DOES this look like some one that knows what they are doing? Gear Notes: Double sets of C3's and C4 up to #3. Blake Herrington also has a great route description here: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/washington/leavenworth/icicle_creek/106279399 I disagree with him on a few points but for the most part this is right on. Approach Notes: Approach as for Snow Creek Wall

Attempted hyperspace last week and ended up having to bail due to time. We headed up there yesterday and finished the route but saw that our gear had been sagged. Most of it was right below the pressure chamber and included 2 #1 cam's, a .4 cam, a .75 cam, and a #2 C3. I'd love to get this gear back because it is worth a lot. Please contact me if found. Thanks again.

Hey Dave, Sorry it took so long for me to get back. I am not sure where you live but it might be easiest to just drop it off at the OR store with my name on it. If that doesn't work give me a call at 406-270-3157 and we'll talk about a time/place we can exchange the equipment. Thanks again for the help retrieving the gear for my friends

I'd like to give a shout out to Black Diamond. They totally hooked us up with a Speed 4o Lite backpack, Cosmo headlamp and mountain trekking poles for our raffle. Way to go BD.

Here are just a few of the items we'll be raffling off for this event: MSR Whisperlite Stove Moving Comfort Sports Bra Tikka 2 Smartwool Socks and Apparel OR Apparel Deuter Packs and much more....

I'd like to thank the following companies for donating raffle items to our event. Petzl Deuter Outdoor Research Moving Comfort Smartwool Nikwax Cascade Designs

For more information about HERA check out their website at: http://www.herafoundation.org/

Outdoor Research Retail Store is hosting a showing of Big UP Productions: Progression, June 10th at 6pm. Tickets are $10 dollars and include, a 25% off coupon for one full priced OR item, a raffle ticket, and snacks/refreshments. Proceeds from the raffle and ticket sales will be donated to HERA: Womens Cancer Foundation. For details or advanced ticket sales call the store at 206-971-1496. Sorry No RSVP. OR Retail Store 2203 1st Ave S Seattle, WA 98134

That's what parents are for.

Hey CC, Thanks to everyone's support at events, slide shows, paypal, and the climb-a-thon the Washington Climbers Coalition has been able to raise over 160k towards the our original goal of 300k. This means we have 10 short months to raise the last 140k towards the purchase and upkeep of Index Lower Town Wall. To make a last second push towards our goal, the WCC has teamed up with IDeology Design Firm to present gifts to people who make a 50 or 300 hundred dollar donation through the link below. Index Fund Donation

A partner and I are looking to do Yocum Ridge. Has anyone been up in that area recently? If so how does it look?

You need the condoms for the ice bar

Good call. Sorry all you Wyominglites. Wyoming does have a ton of awesome ice.

Trip: Fu** WA I am going to Iceland - The cardinal directions Date: 2/16/2010 Trip Report: Seeing as the ice kind of blows in WA this season, I decided to schedule a ten day trip to Iceland. The locals said it was a bad "ice" season in Iceland. By taking a look at the following pictures I am sure you'll agree with me that they are full of shit. Day 1. Rappelling off a two pitch WI3. We only did two pitches because we didn't get there until later and I was hung over from the night before. Day 2. No ice here. I'll just mosey on over to this awesome and beautiful WI4 to gain access to.... this bad boy amphitheater. Due to lack of time and testicular fortitude, we weren't able to tackle the headwall. Instead we busted out left and did a WI4 that had the consistency of a snow cone on a hot summers day and this.... And the Lord said there would be frozen turf and hollow ice and it was good (actually it was scary run out so much for the infallibility of God) I also did a day trip outside of Reykjavik. Surprising there was very little ice outside of Reykjavik except for this.... And a little of this... and a little of this to top it off Lessons learned from Iceland: 1) The hotness of the women is a little overstated. That isn't to say there isn't a lot of attractive blond women there. I just think you'd find the same amount, fake and real, of attractive women in any metropolitan city Seattle included. 2) The national Icelandic drink, Brennivin, taste like paint thinner ergo it tastes like shit. Drink at your own risk. 3) Their "bad" ice season is better then Washington and Oregon and any of the other 48 states not names CO, MT, or NH ice season. 4) They really like automatic sliding doors. Gear Notes: Tools, ice screws, snowshoes,ropes, crampons, and box of condoms Approach Notes: No what so ever. All the approaches were less then 30mins and access is a none issue in Iceland just be nice to the land owner and pack your shit(trash) out.

Pictures look awesome. Say hi to V for me when you get a chance.

Vertfest 2010 is coming back to Alpental and Friends of the Northwest Avalanche Center need your help to make it happen. The Where, What, and When: On March 6, we will need 15 people to be gatekeepers for the Rando Races at Alpental. You will need to be there from 830am-300pm and dress warmly because you’ll be outside on the course. Here is what we give to you: Beer at the after party, a free lift ticket for the day and an additional one for later use, a grab bag of sweet sweet shwag, and a warm fuzzy feeling inside for helping a good cause!!! Interested/Questions: Contact Jeremy: jeremyp@orgear.com

Has anyone checked e-bay?

I plan on fly into Denver Feb 7th to do some ice climbing in Ouray. The only problem is I need to find a ride to Ouray from Denver. I am willing to pitch in gas money, etc...Let me know if you are interested.

Hubba Hubba left is in nice and fat. The first pitch is WI2 while the second is a fun WI3. Just bring some rock gear for the second pitch to protect the snow cover rock top section.

Tickets have been purchased!!!!I am heading out to iceland feb 16th-26!!! If you'd like to join me let me know. I only paid $500 for my ticket and that included cancellation insurance.

Six to seven hrs worth form what I've been told. I just of the phone with some one that goes every year and he says it is amazing. It think I going to purchase my tickets tomorrow. Still have to figure out how long but I am thinking 10-15 days and run the trip until the end of the month.

I am looking for climbing partners to go to Ireland with me late Feb. See attached pictures and let the drooling commence http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/ivarfinn/Veturinn0910# http://arnarogberglind.smugmug.com/2010/canadadry/10852400_NuBVc#757020918_nQpC9 Feel free to pm if interested