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Zach

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  1. Nice report and pics. Hey Brian. My foots broken! How'd the other pics still come out? Email them to me when you get a chance. especially the one of me breaking my foot.
  2. Oops just saw a pic of the N Face route. crummy.
  3. Juan, it's definately doable. I just got back from another trip. Let me know if you can do it a different day. Zach
  4. Would like to do Dome or Sinister, Buckner, or whatever. I can go fast and am available all week starting tomorrow. I have a car but only until Monday. Zach
  5. TRANGO! the light one. cheap light small
  6. That's the one. Let me know when you have the time.
  7. Looking for a partner to do a traverse of Sawtooth ridge sometime this summer. I have weekends off.
  8. Dan took pictures I'll post them as soon as I get copies. Can you post video in the gallery?
  9. A friend Dan and I climbed Mt. Constance last weekend by a combination of routes. We approached from the S fork of tunnel creek. We had bluebird skies on Sunday and a full moon on Saturday night. Some of the traversing sections were scary on the way down. They were covered in slushy snow that had melted out quickly when the sun hit it. We climbed a one pitch variation of the finger traverse on the way back. It was around 60-75 feet of 5.7 on decent rock, no protection though, but that didn't matter as we didn't have a rope anyway. Dan dropped his axe descending from the summit block. Luckily it landed on a ledge 25 feet down and he was able to downclimb and get it and then crawl through a tunnel to a downward sloping ledge from which he was able to regain the ridge crest. It didn't look too fun. This is a long approach. You have to gain and loose close to 2000 feet before you actually get to the mountain not including the trail to tunnel creek shelter. Does anyone have any information on the North fork approach? It looks like it may be easier especially in early season or winter.
  10. The weekend of the third you could drive to within 4-5 miles of the Ingalls Creek trailhead. You could get farther if you had a burly 4WD. There was more than a foot of snow on the road after that.
  11. Keynose biners are really good for use on daisy chains or anything else you clip and unclip from slings frequently. Also for racking lots of nuts on a single biner. They don't seem to make much of a difference to me when clipping bolts or other pro. The heliums have a huge nose though. I think it is a better design for standard gate biners. I've heard that the ball on the DMM keylock wiregates can do bad things when the biner is whipping around in a fall. Just hearsay though I haven't actually heard of any accidents caused by them. As for favorite I would vote for the Superfly. It's light and big enough to make it easier to use than the neutrino.
  12. I have one like the GSI. It works well but if you are carrying it into the backcountry you will need to bring a lot of beans. It uses about as much to make one shot as you would use to make a cup or two with a french press or drip filter. That Italian thing is a percolator. I'd recomend one of those plastic cone filter holders that sit on top of your cup. You can get them at the grocery store for two dollars. Or if you want to go really light you can just just put the grounds in one of your socks and drop it in boiling water. That will give you cup of joe on the same level as the folgers bags.
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