shapp
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Posts posted by shapp
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RIP,
I grew up with Brian, haven't talked to him in 20 years though. One of his bros died in another tragic non-climbing incident several years ago.
He was a nice dude. Sympothy to the family.
Shapp
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Last time I went I had to put up with a drum circle until 2 a.m.
Just in case you're reading this drummers... Your drum circle sucks and you make others suffer so you can enjoy your brain altered state all hours of the night.
Never went back.
Though I am not one of the drummers, the grass lands, now called skull hollow, has been the scene of late night climbers parties since time immemorial. Go to the bivy or motel 6. The grass lands has never been sought for quiet solitude.
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Garden weasel at 3 oclock rock, I like that route but it needs all new bolts.
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Thanks for the words everyone.
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Ode to the dog Simon, went to work with me nearly every day of his 13 years.
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My 13 year old good friend passed on this morning. Got him at the La Grande Oregon shelter when he was 6 weeks old.
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nice!, more horse cock and instant starbucks instead of the frenchpress and you would have made more objectives
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I have used the next size below pink with good success in wierd placements in pods and overlaps around darrington area climbs
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Stay less at Crater and keep heading east. Some places in the eastern half of the state I like: Steens Mountain, Hart Mountain, Alvord Desert, Alvord Hotsprings, Haines Steakhouse, Anthony Lakes, Malheur Wildlife Refuge, Pine Mountain Observatory (space telescope), Leslie gulch, John Day fossil beds
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One reason to be super careful heading up to Squire Creek routes this year too, huge snow year, wet longer, could be more rock fall latter than expected.
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Various within striking distance of boise:
Hells Canyon, take the route through Cambridge, Burnt River lime stone, Spring Mt. Oregon is within striking distance of Boise for a good weekend of shorter trad and sport, Slick Rock regular route is very fun, long and casual, Finger of Fate is pretty fun.
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Sex, Drugs and Climbing, I wish!!
You should try pulling on a little more limestone before you go next-time...you just might become a Big Fan.Nah, I'm a trad climber which is a pretty tough proposition on most limestone. I was in Railay in '93 and I suspect it's still about the only time the locals have seen a full trad rack or someone trad climbing there (which mostly consists of slinging things and stacking stuff in pockets). A couple of them were pretty fascinated by it all so I was never wanting for partners.
Me thinks you protest what you know not. Pre-conceived notions are often askew. I too am a primarily trad climber, Hells Canyon rocks! While there are ample “sport routes” there are also several mixed routes put up by VERT THE MAN that will put the pucker up your trad anus.
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Oh Shapp, you can be such a drama queen!.... On a privately owned website "censorship" is not an applicable concern, no one's first amendment right was abrogated
Legally yes, morally no, when you see some of the other stuff that has been allowed.
And the stick man cartoon, how could you in good conciense take that away from the public domain! that was soooo funny!
Anyway, I still think you are hot, lets drink some beers and we'll see who plays the queen!
post script: oops I just got the new terms and constions to check the box when I just logged in, and sextually oriented content is no longer allowed, so I guess the queen comment is now grounds for a spanking.
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I have deleted the non-related material and have returned the locked thread to the forum.
Thank you I think?
I am surprised that you didn't just do this in the first place, as access concerns are allways near the forefront of our climbing community.
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A recent thread on info about the status of access to the Coburg crags near Eugene was recently deleted, I suppose by the moderators, as it degenerated into a pissing match, although quite a funny one with cartoons and such. Anyway, It seams a waste to have deleted the entire thread as there was some good access info in the thread, could it not have been possible to delete the "offending" posts and leave the good info?
The only valid censorship of ideas is the right of people not to listen (or to read).
Now I suspose I will be banned for questioning the hand of god.
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So I had a look into my big Gray binder with all sorts of notes, scraps and topos of all things Oregon choss, and the crag is/was? owned by John Jaqua family (promient local attorney at one time, maybe now deceased). They used to or still do own a big farm accross the road a bit next to the river by the crag. I actually asked to get permisson to climb there in about 1993 or 1994, and they said no, I even offered to help maintain the trails and wooden stairs etc. out there, still no. Also there is a nest up on part of the crag routinely used by Osprey each year. My understanding is that the Nature Conservancy doesn't own the land with the crag, they own some grass land up above that is habitat for the fenders blue butterfly. Anyway, there are some good routes there that only a couple of guys, brothers, and you know who you are, have long term permission to climb there.
The three times I visited, I poached it, getting caught the last time, I did ask permission before I tried the poaching. Getting caught wasn't too big of a scene, but I wouldn't recommend it. This was also about 15 years ago, last time I visited it.
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I did climb there a few times in the mid 1990s, there are good bolted and trad lines, but it is private and you will get busted poaching. It sure would be cool for the Access Fund to take up the issue. If it were public it would be a great resource.
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Clear evidence that if Red Dawn ever played out in real life you know the other side would win, we would all be drinking a lot more, speaking a differnet language, and rolling our "R"s.
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Bad ass mo fo! We climed Dilley's Delight last year and had a hard look at the line you climbed. Very striking route! too bad the crux is a few letters above my free climbing ability.
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The amazing google:
http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/2010/03/squire-creek-wall-slab-daddy/
How you gonna climb 510+ slab for 23 pitches?
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Trip: east of cow town - the Boner
Date: 5/21/2011
Trip Report:
The world did not come to an end, however, it was wet on Saturday so we couldn't climb at the largest monolith in Oregon, so we went and scoped out another feature I long (pun intended) wanted to observe up close. The giant boner. I really wanted to post this pic on the Chineese electroncis spam post that was just deleted, but the mods got it first. Damn!
Gear Notes:
aiders and a few hooks would be needed!
Approach Notes:
8.5 miles of gravel road and 15 minutes of hiking through the doug fir re-prod
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I consider Spring Mt. part of the greater D-town area, although the climbing is pretty different than at the Clear Creek or Squire creek areas.
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Looks Index-like...also, what model of shoes are these in the picture? I have a pair that I got used and I want another one. Great slab shoes.
Spring Mountain - Rolling Thunder route, shoes?
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A line of coke makes the music work with it a lot better!
North Sister Fatality on Saturday
in Oregon Cascades
Posted
I thought about Brian a bit last night in rememberance. Some good times in high school:
sitting in the hot tub at his house with the hot exchange student from finland (girl)
Brian diving off the top of the train tressle at hayden bridge (he was a competition diver and quit good)
Ice cream cone building competitions at AM/PM