climbaround

TR on TAY

Coolern' a moose and twice as hairy! Thanks for the report and pics.

Great TR and pictures! Thanks, that's what I read this site for.

Trip: Del Campo - N & E faces Date: 6/20/2008 Trip Report: See TR on Turns All Year. Gear Notes: Axes nice. Approach Notes: Had to walk 1.5 miles of Sunrise Mine road.

Peter, I agree with Don's wise words, and G-spotter's view that once they split each of them was primarily responsible for themselves. Sounds like Paul's partner was nice enough to carry out the gear Paul didn't want to weigh him down on his climb. Of course we have some responsibility when and if we think our partner is in trouble, but that is hard to pin down in such a situation. I know I've almost hurt myself when rushing to get out when I was overdue and thought a rescue might be called. I have split up with partners many times in the mountains, esp. when one is slower and doesn't think they'll make the summit. A few times in the distant past this has led to major screw ups (while hiking out of the Wind Rivers an entire day and night was spent trying to figure out what the other person was doing - I was very worried, my partner correctly figured we were both competent and would meet up at the car). I've learned the hard way that very clear communication and an explicit plan is necessary to avoid such situations - where and when will you meet up (and wait), when to worry, and when to call a rescue should be delineated. Winter conditions certainly up the ante if an accident occurs, as was so tragically illustrated here, so soloing must be taken very seriously. So sorry for your loss.

I'm glad my initial post got this debate going. We all need to think about our actions and how they affect others/the planet - every little bit helps (or hurts). This should also influence our political action to make big changes that will really have an impact. When I lived in Europe one of my best climbing friends refused to visit the alps because of the long drive and the negative environmental impact he felt tourism had on their mountains. I continued, but he convinced me not to take any more weekend trips where I was driving as much as climbing. His commitment still influences me, so I try to save distant climbs for longer trips when it will be worth the "carbon footprint" price my driving has. Of course if I was fully committed I wouldn't drive at all, but I'm a selfish mt. addict. I wish that "motorheads" whose choosen sports burn mass quantities of fuel would have similar thoughts that might influence their choices. The location of this motocross track will not have much if any impact on planetary global warming. The dirt bikers will just have to go somewhere else. Trying to stop it is actually pure NIBYism, but if more people did so it might actually get the riders to rethink their impact (I'm not holding out any great hope of that though). I just don't want my backyard mountain ruined. While I loved the easy access in the Alps, and took full advantage of trams and huts, I was very glad to return to the wilderness of the Cascades. I will do what I can to stop similar development here.

See some pictures of the glacier taken from Heliotrope 10.27: http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=8038.0

I grew up in an incredible climbing Explorer post back in the day outa Tacoma. Many of our group went on to become top climbers (Tod Bibler of tent fame being our best known member). I'll never forget many of those early climbs with the post, and learning how to deal with some of the more interesting fellows - all part of being in a public club (great training for getting along with others later in life). Many of us wanted to jump onto harder climbs and we thought the old duffer leaders were holding us back (which they were!) but I know we all are forever indebted to them for a solid basic knowledge that we built on and moved beyond. Those kids are lucky, I thought that liability had gotten the scouts out of climbing. Keep up the good work, but don't be too sensitive about the m&m remark - most of us would rather have the crag/mt. to ourselves, so large club groups do bug most of us when we run into them unexpectedly, but then again I guess they may also want the crag to themselves and not have to deal with a bunch of other climbers so lets live and let live.

Hey guys, give Jeff a break. He is a very smart, nice guy who is working hard to preserve our little corner of the planet. In his letter he was trying to marshal every argument he could to get "the general public" out in our area involved. Global warming is the hot topic right now, and might get a few people on our side who never visit the area. Porter, I haven't done the research or math on the CO2 numbers, but I trust that Jeff did. Can you point us to research or facts that shows otherwise? Dberdinka, I agree that the noise aspect should be the focus, it certainly is my NIMBY concern as a frequent user of Mt. Pilchuck. Like I pointed out before I find myself, a professed environmentalist and "nature lover", a bit hypocritical every time I drive to the mountains for recreation. But that is true every time I drive anywhere not absolutely necessary, or use energy for "fun" - like watching TV, or listening to the radio. The point of this thread is to ask CC.com members to do what they can to help us stop the track (e-mail writing, etc.). I figured many of us drive up the Mountain Loop, or hike/climb/ski on Mt. Pilchuck and so appreciate the situation and want to help out of self interest if nothing else. Thanks,

Fairweather, No, The Mountain Loop Concervancy is not a group interested in blocking the reopening of the Mt. Loop rd., infact at our last meeting we discussed extending our area of interest (in conserving the natural environment, but also allowing noninvasive access for future generations) all the way to Darrington once it opens. Go to the web site link I put in the first posting to see what they are about and to find many important details about the organization and the motocross track. Which statements do you feel are just plain wrong?

Offset, The letter to the editor isn't mine, and I don't really agree that the distance from medical help will be much of an issue - many places dirt bikers go are further out there. I don't have the facts on number of climber hikers up the Mt. Loop, but it must number in the thousands/year (just on nearby Mt. Pilchuck). Yes, they do use their cars to get there (I feel a bit guilty everytime I make a long drive somewhere for climbing/skiing fun), but at least they don't use a motorized vehical once there, and don't generate the noise pollution that a motocross track would. I don't think that a dislike of motocrossers has anything to do with it. Some of the people opposed to this track have ORVs, they just don't want a huge complex in their backyard (the developer predicts 50-100 riders on a typical weekday), and think it would be better located in an industrial/freeway area where there are no nearby residents, or other existing popular recreation areas that would be adversely affected. Granted that might be hard to find, but that is the nature of the game when the activity has such a large impact.

Don't know if many CC.com members have heard about this. There is a proposal to build a big pro moto-cross track just up the Mountain Loop Highway below Mt. Pilchuck. This will negatively impact all non-motorized users of the mountains in this area - noise polution being the biggest problem on nearby Mt. Pilchuck. If you want to help, write the people at the bottom of this letter to the editor (Lake Stevens Journal). You can also visit the web site of The Mountain Loop Concervancy, a group that is working to stop the track: Dear Editor, The proposed Motocross Track complex along the Mt. Loop Highway has stirred debate which is important towards the community making the best decision. The proposal can also generate arguments not based in reason and cloud the facts. Here are a few facts: The proposal involves clearing 75-85 acres of forest. That amount of forest removes approximately 400,000 pounds of carbon dioxide from the atmosphere annually. CO2 is the primary cause of global warming. Approximately 75 riders per day would use the tracks resulting in approximately 600,000 pounds of CO2 being introduced into the atmosphere annually. Net result: a “Carbon Footprint” of over 1,000,000 pounds of CO2 annually. Long distance from emergency services. This means slow response from Fire and Medical services. The area can become extremely dry during summer months. Virtually all the private forested land in the region is closed to access during those times -- the risk is too great. Over 4000 motocross riders are injured seriously enough to require hospitalization annually. A rider who is injured on the proposed track would have to “hang on” for over an hour while (1) paramedics are called to the site and (2) determine the injuries are life-threatening and (3) call for a helicopter (4) to transport the victim to the hospital. Any person, plant or animal within at least a three mile radius would be impacted by the noise and dust. These are facts that are often not fully weighed until it’s too late. The issue is where to best locate a motocross facility. The promoter has made a poor choice and the County Planners need to know. Contact Erik Olson at Project Manager, Snohomish County PDS, 3000 Rockefeller, Everett, WA 98201, Erik.olson@co.snohomish.wa.us. Jeff Van Datta, President Stillaguamish Citizens Alliance

Great pictures, I just wish the panoramas were larger so we could see details. I was up there July 11th skiing and wish we'd been earlier so we could have just run up the north face with more snow to facilitate the traverse over, thus avoiding the dreaded knob. The crux for us was traversing firm snow on the east side of the knob without crampons (stupidly left home because we thought the hot day would soften the snow for easy kicking, but a brisk wind and early start made for firm conditions all the way to the summit). I'd been wanting to get up there for years to take in the view and have to agree that it is about as good as it gets, both views and skiing.

Thanks for the report Stefan, Sounds like you were early enough to have good snow coverage. I might go back next year in the spring or early summer. I was up there in June to ski Gothic and Delcampo in a day which was much easier than this last attempt. TR here .

I was up in Gothic Basin for the last couple days and made a feeble attempt on Sheep Gap Mountain and it's northern peak. The picture in Becky's guide (#2 pg 65) makes the traverse over there from the basin look casual, when in fact it was very steep heather cut by cliffy gullies. I followed some bad beta from a friend and climbed to the ridge seeking easier going (which was true for .25 miles). In the end though I found myself cliffed out and had to back track most of the way back to the basin. View north to Gothic Pk. from my turn around point My feet were starting to hurt from all the heather sidehilling, so I wimped out and headed home at that point (good thing too - that damn trail finished the job on em). North Sheep Gap from Gothic Basin Has anyone on CC.com actually climbed any of the Sheep Gap peaks? From this recon it looked like dropping all the way down into the basin, then climbing to Weeden Pass on big talus would be much easier than traversing the steep slope as Becky shows in the book. The trailhead (Barlow Pass) is an easy drive from Everett. For those seeking a seldom visited challenge on rough terrain, the traverse of Sheep Gap's three peaks car-car fits the bill! Panorama of Sheep Gap's three peaks from my turn around point on the ridge (go to the gallery to view larger images)

I posted this to psych someone up to pull the biggest vertical section below Liberty Cap (just right of dbconlin's line) - please take lots of pictures when you do it!

I skinned all the way up to the false summit via the Roman headwall today - smooth and easy, good soft snow, no scrambling on mud like last year this time. Skiing down was quite good. A bit crusty up top (windy) but smooth and firm by 1/4 way down the headwall, then nice mushy corn all the way down to the end of the snow. Get after it this week.

Taken from Sunrise. Can you find a route through it?

This is a 3 shot pano made from Sunrise Point on the morning of 6/27/07. See more shots at Panoramio.

I was cc skiing with the wife up the Mt. Loop yesterday (gorgeous day, great ski conditions). We were surprised to find the large bridge washed out on the trail up to Big Four. Knee high waders should get you across nearby though. The crust from last week was not firm enough to support me, so conditions for climbing are not good, but the face is frozen solid - even the waterfall above the ice caves!

I didn't realize until a ski tour up there yesterday that the large bridge on the trail to Big Four got washed out in the November floods. It would be easy to cross the river just above or below the bridge with knee high wading boots, or brave the cold in sandals. Snow was a bit deep, and the crust was breakable in many places, so the face is not in condition this week. Big Four 1/14/07: Washed out bridge:

Trip: Skyline Ridge - various Date: 12/17/2006 Trip Report: Beautiful day to run some "front-country" laps on skyline Ridge. 7 inches of dry powder over a firm base made for nice fast turns. Approach Notes: Climb north from Stevens Pass parking lot.

Climb: Mt. Pilchuck - technical ice hike - standard trail Date of Climb: 10/30/2006 Trip Report: I found interesting ice conditions on the Mt. Pilchuck trail yesterday which could mean that thin early season ice might be formed in north face gullies in the area. The storm Sunday must have started with rain, then froze and turned to snow. This turned about half the trail into a skating rink (starting right out of the parking lot) - 3 inch thick water ice in many places. At first I was bummed, thinking it would slow me down too much given my short evening hike time table, but I just turned up the focus and and treated it like a solo ice climb. I stopped at the ridge crest to take pictures, but the drop in temperature got me moving after sunset before I could capture the purple sky afterglow (my dedication to photography does have limits!). The seriousness of the descent by myself in the dark hit home when I thought about how a bad slip might result in a broken bone leading to frostbite or worse. I stuck to the sides of the trail in the dry snow for the most part, at times with one foot on either side in a quick shuffle, so my feet only slipped twice and I never took a fall. Another unique adventure on a familiar little mountain. Gear Notes: Shoulda had wind pants and a warm parka. Approach Notes: Water ice over much of the trail

Nice TR with good beta, and fantastic photos dberdinka! Thanks

Great TR (with important details) and pictures.