DougGeller

I have no idea what anyone is talking about on this web site. Mostly not about climbing is about all I can tell.

Hey - - I've got two 1986 VW Westies both weekenders, one is Syncro (AWD) and plan to sell one of them pretty soon. I'm having some work done on the 2WD model (transmission) but it might be ready to roll in a few days. Give me a call 503-803-8815 (in Portland area).

It sounds like you plan to carry all your gear over the summit of the Grand to camp at the Lower Saddle for the ensuing ascent of Middle. In that case the key to the East Ridge route will be an extremely early start and 'efficient' climbing (i.e. 3rd classing or simul style). I do not recommend you start from the valley but instead obtain a bivvy permit and find a spot near Amphitheatre Lake cirque. Be prepared for routefinding, rappeling enroute, and summit snowfield.

The account of the original Ptarmigan Traverse is probably recorded somewhere, check the Mountaineers library for an old copy of the American Alpine Journal, Mazama, or Mountaineer. The Beckey Guide may reference such a written account, I don't recall.

This is very sad news - but I must ask what were these folks doing that high on the route at 3:45 PM when it is well known that thunderstorms build up rapidly in the afternoon on the Grand. Normally climbers return to the upper saddle by around noon on the day of an ascent of the Exum or complete Exum. I've been hit indirectly (ground current) by lightning (on N. Ridge of Stuart halfway up) and almost got killed; the thunderstorm came over from the south without warning at 11:30 AM~ very scary. Summited eventually (at 8:00 pm) and bivvied there on top. Lotsa fun.

Class 3 means generally easy scrambling, occasional use of hands and generally no requirement to rope up. Class 4, particularly in the Beckey guides, means the most difficult part of any technical climb usually encountered on the approach to climbs in the N. Cascades. Example: Frozen 45 degree forest duff requiring crampons (left in car); wet heather covered rock with no pro, and so on.

The answer to the question will not be found in the rampant namecalling I've seen here, but rather in careful consideration of the situation you find yourself in on a particular route. I tend to rope up on glaciers and moderate snow slopes where I think there is an excellent chance a slip or fall can be held if there is minimal slack in the rope between climbers. I don't like to rope up if the result is "don't fall or we'll all go" situation. Roping up without a fixed belay point on steep ground is just not a good idea particularly in well-frozen conditions (ideal for cramponing) or super soft snow that an ice axe is not much help in peforming a self-arrest. I would say (and I'm generalizing) the practice of always roping up is more prevalent in guided groups or groups with a leader and the rest are basically non-climbers, and this led to the deaths of several people on Hood and Rainier last year but these are not isolated incidents.

Forbidden Slesse Stuart Prusik or Dragontail Cathedral Group Liberty Bell If you want the rock quality to be high this is what I suggest the big difference being the degree of committment and the approach/descent. There's a whole lot to choose from more if you are not offended by some loose pitches, heather, lack of crowds, and so on.

Just some basic info. from this past Friday. I skiied off the false summit having slogged up from below Morrison Creek, snow blocks vehicles at 4500' elev and will be slow to melt to Cold Springs (I estimate after July 4th unless June is real hot). Above 10,000 newer snow not corned up yet. Below 10000 especially the Crescent Gl. is great for spring skiing. Get an early start ( < 6 AM ) if you want good snow up high for the descent. Seeing no pt. in summiting and not having legs for a 8000 vertical day I enjoyed the descent and was taking a dip in Dog Creek falls in the Columbia Gorge by 2:30 PM .