oleg

So funny to read this. You guys think that there is no world outside of America. All those names are never heard of in Europe where the real climbers are. Ever heard of Piolet D'Or? How many americans got it? Just bored at work. OK

This is exactly what happend - they died BECAUSE of climbers. I climbed in this place few times in early 90s and know what I am talking about. This people died because the government ordered troops to go to this valley. Nobody lives there (except one guy summertime), nobody would go there to fight, troops usually positioned on the passes in well fortified places where there is much less chance for troops get killed esp. against such small band. If there is larger band, they call for air/artillery support - again much less killed troops. In this case 100% blame on climbers. Oleg

What bothers me most about this story is that people here do not realize that PEOPLE GOT KILLED DUE TO FEW STUPID CLIMBERS and these dudes are been glorified for this. YOu are asking what if smbd climbs in Pakistan and get cought etc., you should ask would it be cool if you go climb in Afganistan knowing whats going on there, get caught by Taleban fighters and then being rescued by US troops but during this rescue more than 10 soldiers die? How hero it would look? May be you do not care because it was Kyrgyz soldiers. Oleg

It's been a while since I climbed at PRG, but anyway I need some plastic pulling before weather becomes really nice. How about next Monday around 6:30ish? I am planning to be there - bold guy in black lycra tights.

My partner just got married (why it should always be in the middle of the good weather season?), so I am out. Looking for parners for climbing anywhere near Portland (Broughton, Beacon etc.) weekdays after 5 p.m. Anybody is going regularly that I can hook up with? Weekends are also possible for longer stuff. Drop me e-mail konon@pacifier.com Oleg.

In Russia instead of summit register we have a summit note. Climbing party leaves a note in the cairn at the summit and takes the previous note. Then it surrendered to climbing ranger who keeps summit logs for the area. It serves 2 purposes: helps in case of missing climbers/rescue as it states time, intended descend route weather, etc. and serves as a proof of the climb (no Dan - type discussions there). On challenging routes there could be couple of key points on the route which contain notes, like e.g. bolt at the belay with attached film canister, again serving the same two main purposes. To prove you climb this particular route, you have to show all the notes. Of coarse there is much less traffic in Russia than here, I used to find notes 12 - 15 years old. Oleg.

Depends how far and how fast you've gone before you are in correct position to apply ice tool to slope. Even this is potentially lethal, depending on runout zone. The whole idea of selfarrest is to do it immediately, not to gain speed. As I recall, we had to start head first on the back and stop within 30 feet. Oleg.

About to rope or not to rope the old school says: if you can catch yourself - there is no need, if not - to rope. Using protection is up to individual skills, similar to the rock - somebody can runout 5.6, somebody 5.12. The main part is you should be confident in your partner as in yourself, otherwise use protection. As far catching people on steep slopes - plenty of history. Best example from my experience - we were travercing horizontal ridge, ice about 15 feet wide and one in our party broke crampon, next thing he was going down on 50deg ice slope, after full rope length (40m), my partner caught him with axe pick (not even shaft). although using some extra help as the third person jumped on top of him. The point is if you use correct self arresting technique, you need only a small extra pull from rope to stop. Back in Russia in 80's we had to pass tests to climb mountains, one of it was to selfarrest on 35-40 deg pure ice. If you can do that, you can selfarrest on any snow slope. Oleg.

Climbed the middle route last weekend. One of the best routes I climbed on Rainier. In prime condition! Hurry, won't last long. Mostly hard snow 50 - >60 deg, very sustained ~10 pitches, about 30 ft of black ice on first or second pitch and small (5ft) cornice on the last. Approach under icefall is scary, do not follow the picture, come much lower - traverse at the same altitude all the way to the left under the shute and then straight up (some zigzaging arount the berg). The sh** starts falling with sunrise, around 4a.m. - get really early start. We started from Muir at 2:30 but better even earlier. We saw some stuff fell on our path as we were on the second pitch. Met very nice ranger at Muir, Paul - lot's of beta, updated weather - all you possibly need! Looks, like we were first in the season - the worst part was potholing above the steep part to the crater rim - took us 3 hours and completely took any desire to cross it to the summit with RMI hordes - turned and descended via std boottrack. Enjoy! Oleg

Back in Russia there was general agreement: if you can take a ride (car, cat, heli) - take it, it's called approach. Climb begins at the point where you have to go by yourself. You can hike to the Everest basecamp or can take a heli flight - it does not make you less of a mountaneer provided you actually climb the mountain. Cheers!

Nice pictures! We probably saw you descending - we were at ~13500' coming up from Nisqually cleaver.

There is russian brand of Ti biners called Irbis. THey were produced since early seventies in regular and lock versions and available in Russia now. Not so great, little bit heavy (77g) and small for the same strength as aluminum. Actually it is not pure Ti as Ti is very soft material. All "Ti" gear is made from Ti-Vanadium alloy, strength and other properties depend on V content. You can machine this alloy, bent it etc. but for the strength you need to do thermal treatment. Back in 80's I made couple dozens of biners from Ti-V, destroyed half of them for strength testing and used happily for last 20 years, still have one left in use. That was very nice shape (triangular with lock) that I copied from old steel biner from 50' Oleg