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Timcb

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Everything posted by Timcb

  1. Yeah, we'd certainly be looking hard at patagonia if the seasons lined up
  2. A buddy of mine, Justin, and I are going to be traveling for 2 or 3 months this summer, sometime in the May to August period. We're trying to decide where to go right now, here are our criteria: -Trip is alpine climbing focused, but not entirely spent climbing. We're thinking 60-70% of the time we'd be climbing. The rest of the time would be travel, exploring, visiting different parts of the area, interacting with locals, community service would be great. -Interaction with foreign cultures is critical. Alaska and the yukon would great for climbing, but we want to get out of the country. -We're willing to accept some logistical hassles, we have the time to handle them, but we're both relative expedition noobs- having made one trip down to ecuador for two weeks. -I speak a little spanish, Justin's willing to learn. -as far as climbing goes, we're looking for grade II-IV, PD to AD, alpine rock to 5.7 or 5.8, AI 3 or 4, WI 3. -high altitude a must (5,000 to 7,500m), preferably with routes from day climbs out of camp, to week long trips (but no establishing multiple camps, himalayan expedition style) -we're looking to really get out there off the beaten track. The further afield, the better. Having 2 or 3 months for a trip like this is very rare for us and we really want to be able to take advantage of our time. So we have a couple places we're toying with, but where would you go? why?
  3. Holy cow alpinfox! those are some sweet pictures! that aid bit really looks damn hard
  4. Yeah- nice work and great pics! The route is almost entirely unrecognizable without its spring snowpack. very cool
  5. If you've got extras, I'd love to buy em. Two would be great (though one would work too). Thanks
  6. Who went? how was it? I was down at Tline on Hood today. it was a good time, but I definitely should not have bothered waxing my skis. They look worse now than they did before
  7. right on- thanks folks. good tips. Can't wait to get out in the snow.
  8. So, I'm investing in the setup and I've got all the major items picked out. Denali XT boots, Shuksan skis, and Diamir III bindings. Now come all the "little" things. Should I get ski brakes? Do most of you have em, or do you just use the keeper cords that the skis come with? I envision doing more touring this year than glacier ski mountaineering. What about crampons? Probably don't need em this winter, but come spring season, will they come in handy? Should I just get the fritschi ones, or is there a better kind? I've heard some ski crampons don't have teeth long enough to be effective while using heel lifts. and finally, skins. I'm leaning towards the Ascension clipfix. any reason why I should consider something else? Thanks
  9. You may (or may not) notice that the initial, resurrected post is dated may of 01. sorry to let the wind out of your sails. "No shite!"? . . . yes, shite. give it another couple months
  10. 5 best routes I've done are probably: NE Face of Redoubt SE Buttress of Cathedral (Pasayten) Kautz Glacier (late season conditions) NE ridge of Triumph NBC on Colchuck Actually, all of these routes I did this year, so maybe this just proves that "best" is whatever you did most recently
  11. So, a couple newbie friends of mine are planning on climbing Adams via the S. route next weekend (10/23). They've asked me for tips and advise on what to expect, but I'm really not sure what to tell them. Having only done the route in May, I could envision anything from fresh snow, bulletproof rock-embedded ice, or a path beat through scree and talus. Any of you have any better suggestions? Obviously the weather immediately preceding their trip will greatly affect what they find, but any blanket tips? ice axe or poles? crampons or running shoes? Thanks
  12. Hey- what about the Volkl Outbacks? I found a pair of those for $350 that look like they could be pretty nice. Are they the predecessors of the Norbert Jooses?
  13. cool. thanks. I'll have to keep my eye out for the deals
  14. TLG- So I'm seeing both Atomic TM:RXs and Teledaddys on Sierra Trading Post, and hearing good things from you all. So the teledaddys are great skis, but you wouldn't want them as your only setup? Is that cause they're too fat and you'd only want them for the powder? I'm sort of a noob when it comes to AT, so excuse the obvious questions, but it looks like maybe they wouldn't tour very well. How do the TM:RXs differ from the TM:EXs? The TM:RXs look pretty sweet- real light for certain. I've only skied BD's Crossbows and liked them, but now I'm looking to buy.
  15. I'm looking for some used AT sticks, maybe 180 cm, with step-in bindings (like diamir III's). Lightness of the skis/bindings is more important than them being in great shape.
  16. Anyone have pics of climbing the non-ice?
  17. Has Distel applied for your job yet? Now I don't know Distel, but let me tell you, that job couldn't have been done by just anyone. oh no. We were employing nothing but the most cutting edge, rigorous geologic methods.
  18. That cliff's on the west side of central Whidbey- private land I'm pretty sure. And I'm not necessarily advocating going climbing up there, but there really are cliffs all over the Sound, on some of which I'm sure you wouldn't get in trouble (or at least wouldn't get noticed). protection would be very difficult, but maybe that's when it's time to bust out the top rope
  19. So I was working on the beachs of Whidbey Island the last two days, counting boulders and looking at the geology in the cliff exposures and I wondered, "Has anyone ever tried to climb any of the silt and clay cliffs of the Puget Sound using ice equipment?"
  20. Lost my Lekis a couple weeks ago on the NE side of Baker. Left them for the day by a rock at the top of the Sholes Glacier, just off the trail. When I came back that afternoon, they were gone. Probably an honest mistake..
  21. I got the Precip jacket from REI-outlet for $60 a couple months ago and it has really served me well. The DWR coating has held up well so far and even when it does eventually get soaked, the jacket remains waterproof and seems very breathable. At 1 pound, it feels very light, both in the pack and on the back and packs compactly too. The final test was last week, while I was rock climbing up in the Cathedral Lakes/Mtns area of the Pasayten and adjacent BC. The weather was generally cold and windy and I climbed almost every day in my Precip. It held up very well, without even any signs of abrasion (miraculous considering the amount of chimneying we did and the exceptional coarseness of the granite).
  22. I've got the Pentax Optio 43 WR and really love it. there are smaller cameras to be sure, but I love all of its features and it's taken some great pictures for me under a variety of different lighting conditions (including while under 15' of ice). The water resistant feature (can handle submersion in 10' of water for 30 minutes) is fantastic because I'm never concerned about it getting rained on (which can happen from time to time). it's an awesome camera
  23. (1) Though not really unenjoyable, just less enjoyable. I'm picturing almost entire days spent sliding around on scree fields, then stepping carefully over hard, blue ice glaciers
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