Led_Hed
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Posts posted by Led_Hed
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My buddy who works in the industry hooked me up with a K2 probe. Full length, pretty sturdy, really fast and simple to erect. Always fun to work that word into a legit sentence.
Not sure how much it costs though.
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Good idea,
Anyone have any contacts up there at SMR? If they could get an estimated list of the items jacked maybe we could notify all of the used gear shops that might be solicited. Catching the little shits would be awesome. I heard the guy on the news (being interviewed) say that they have virtually no equipment to mount major rescues with right now. SMR are good people. They came after me and my pall last winter when we were overdue and I'd hate for someone's rescue to be compromised. This stings!
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Just saw on the 11o'clock news that the Skagit Mtn. Rescue got ripped off this weekend. All of their communication equipment and climbing gear was stolen. We should all try to rally the donations for these guys and chip in for a service that could certainly affect us should we epic big this year! And bust the jackasses who may turn up selling their loot on ebay or the like.
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That big flight of stairs up near broadway (that goes down toward I-5) seems to do the trick for me. And climbing of course whenever possible.
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Layton,
You were loging 300+ pitches of sandstone at the time she went walkabout. Better break out the velcro gloves amigo.
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Probably gonna be a while before that shapes up.
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I'll tell you if you'll get rid of that ridiculous screen name.
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A partner of mine took a full rope length winger (ice tools flailing everywhere) from a full rope above me to a full rope length below me in the Sherpa couloir on Stewart. The only thing between us was a fluke that I had just installed before he cut loose. Thank god it held and he didn't clober me on his way down!
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$$$=Freedom. Gotta buy your freedom in this world. Otherwise you end up someone's bitch. Why else would I be shoveling gravel and pushing wheelbarrows while searching high and low for another better paying (and career oriented) job.
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Trask- (Haggen) does that mean you're living large in the Ham?
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Butterbrickle-Peshastin Pinnacles (5.6 I think).
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Got an Arc'Teryx Khamsin 38. Love it. Removable hip belt (great for sliming down for long steep day routes), removable frame sheet (though it provides tons of comfort on approaches), easy to attach crampons, hydration system compatible, excellent fit, awesome materials, awesome build, no bullshit, reasonably priced (buy it at mec in canada). If only mine were'nt munched by alpine rodents of unusual size in the Bugaboos. I like the idea above re: modifying one of the lower loops so it will quick release. If this is done instead of tool toobs some weight is saved.
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That's my payday. I'd be down!
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Got a mint condition BD Stonepack to sell if anyone's interested. It's a great little versatile day pack for craggin' or alpine. Will sell cheap... Email me:
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If you could do only one right now I would have to vote for Polar Circus. It's a fabulous route and reportedly in great shape at the moment. Murchinson is also classic and not far from the Rampart Hostel. Professors is a fun one to but very rambling. Weeping Wall also rocks. Wonder what the N. Face of Athabasca looks like right now?
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If you're solidly leading 5.8 in the Northwest (on granite and the like) then you would have no problem on routes such as cat in the hat, olive oil, and tunnel vision. The thing about red rx is that the footholds are huge and every handhold is way positive. You often have the option of climbing cracks or faceholds because the cracks have all kinds of breaks and knobs in them. Have fun. There is loads of good climbing there. If you are feeling good and have a competent partner check out crimson crysalis. A little steeper and longer than the others but hugely classic. Just remember your warm clothing items hat/windbreaker etc (as you would in the NW). Even though it is usually sunny and warm it can get wicked cold when the wind picks up.
PS-If you're van or canopy camping and you don't want to pay for the shitty campground there is a great bivi parking lot at the Costco on Charleston. It's near the end of Charleston as your headed out to the park.
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1. Hitchhiking walkabout to the Southwest climbing in Jtree and Red Rocks, and a smidge in Yosemite totallying 1.5 months time. (Highlight was: Resolution Arete-Red Rx) Then driving Layton's broken body home to WA thru Death Valley (106 degrees!)
2. My first Alaskan expedition (Wrangells)- though not as succesful as I'd hoped but still fun.
3. A kickass trip to the Bugaboos (highlight was the Becky-Chouinard) but everything up there was amazing. Small side trip to hit N. Face of Athabasca before coming home.
3.5 First trip into the Southern Pickets-W. McMillan Spire.
fun times.
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It makes me sick to hear someone argue that if the law-abiding public had zero access to firearms we would be safer and better off. Who's worried about being shot by law-abiding armed home-owners? Answer: Burglars and other morons who are willing to gamble with their own lives and the lives of those behind a closed locked door. Every home intruder armed or not assumes a huge risk by entering anothers living space univited and places his/her potential victim in a position where it would probably be stupid (unless the burglar fled immediately after being warned) not to shoot the intruder.
There's a lot of home invasions happening in the Seattle area as of recently. I'm dissapointed that the papers havn't covered it a little better.
armed morons...
legal guns in legal hands...
Dru,
What a retarded coment man. Come on. Violence is a huge subject, and we live in a huge country, far more populated than Canada. Blaming the whole issue on one factor is ridiculous.
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Lockdowns are the only way to travel. I was battling my BD twist leashes on the N. Face of Athabasca last week and finally resorted to whipin' out my knife mid-pitch and cutting the shaft loop from around each tool. My rubber shafted Black Prophets were gripping the wet leashes and keeping me from getting a proper grip on my tools. My partner uses lockdowns and I've been wanting them for a while. Very secure and versatile.
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That's the dumbest thing I've ever heard.
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The Lawgoddess knows what's up. Mammut pants are the ticket. No wonder so many Euros dig 'em. The velcro around the ankles also works well to convert the sporty trousers into knee highs. They've treated me well in the Cascades, Red Rocks, Alaska, and the Bugaboos alike. I'd been using a pair of original schoeller talus pants from Patagonia for years. I use them for everything except running in the afternoon Seattle summer heat.
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PS--
I'll part with 'er for a cool $60...
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My partner and I approached the NE Buttress early morning Saturday and heard 90% of the pocket glacier go sliding off in oblivion. We continued approaching the route and crossed to the notch between the pocket glacier and propeller cairn. The remaining 10% of the glacier threatened the slabs below so we choose to bail. There were also two big "fins" of snow guarding the ramp leading to the NE butt. so as far as we could tell the "complete" was the only way to go. Shouldn't take long to clear up completely though.
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Great day pack for craggers and alpinists alike. 33 liters capacity, lightweight, rugged, versatile. Two tool loops w/ lash points, hydration system compatiple, ski slots, one buckle for the lid. Cool colors: yellow+grey+black. Email me at matthewmc23@hotmail.com I can rendevous with a buyer in Seattle if need be. Thanks!
canon a80 or s400 opinions?
in The Gear Critic
Posted
Don't go digital. You'll regret it. I did. My $70 Olympus stylus Epic has great glass and with Fuji Velvia (which is the bomb shit as far as slides are concerned-for archival quality, color, reproduction, etc.) I'm able to print 10x14 with amazing results. Just cause it's treandy doesn't mean it's sensible.