kurthicks
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Posts posted by kurthicks
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num1mc can you support your statements with some information?
Just that they have a smaller cross section than equivalent rod that would go into a nominal 1/2 glue whole, and have a very ad hoc garage built look to them.
Glue-in bolts are the standard across all of the EU, though some folks still place in "bolt-in" (a.k.a. expansion bolts) hardware in some places. Our American homegrown bolting systems are long overdue for some updating, especially on the west side of the Cascades where use of non-stainless hardware runs rampant and is not a long lasting solution. I do appreciate and understand the perception that glue-in hardware may look more 'garage built', but the reality is that all climbing hardware that has passed CE rating is deemed safe for climbing regardless of its outward appearance. I think educating the American climbing public will serve us all well in this regard—although, let's be honest, most folks will clip whatever is there since they want to do the climb—and that is the whole reason for going to all of the trouble of replacing this bad hardware.
In this instance, these were chosen for a) longevity in a corrosive environment b) a very high use area where it is conceivable for multiple parties to be on them at one time and c) glue-ins are the only bolt that only exerts force on the rock when it is being weighted, unlike all other bolts, which is a good thing in fractured rhinostone.
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ClimbTech Wave glue-ins. 1/2" x 4.5".
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those are some of the older routes up there, so that's not surprising. I'll put it on the list, but writing the new Snoqualmie Valley guidebook is taking priority these days.
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You hit the nail on the head—avoid shockloading the system at all costs!
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There are certainly places where one would want a belay. Honestly, most of the time a very tight rope and an axe in arrest position is all I do (remember those knots I mentioned?). Otherwise, create a solid anchor (say a T-slot) and belay as per normal for the leader (and possibly the follower depending on what the leader sees when they cross the bridge). These belays don't seem to happen very often, perhaps most often near bergschrunds or over mid-season obviously sagging bridges.
All of the concern about a major, above-the-head, crevasse fall is quite overblown in our region in my opinion and experience. Others folks might have a different opinion and that's just fine by me.
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I always, yes always, tie butterfly knots when I travel in a team of two. In the Cascades, I go with 50' out between us with kiwi coils (or a stowed mountaineer's coil of the extra rope) on both ends of the rope. Using more rope is common in Alaska (wider cracks than we usually have in the Cascades), but I have never seen any legitimate study reinforcing the effectiveness of using a (longer) dynamic rope in reducing force in a crevasse fall. In fact, Rigging for Rescue has shown that static or semi-static ropes are potentially better for use in pure glacier travel since they stretch less (which is fine given the low force of these falls) and that low stretch makes hauling significantly easier.
The butterfly knots work incredibly well if there is snow on the surface of the glacier (which, after all, is why you're roped up because if it was blue ice using a rope won't help either of you). If you're long-roping (say 30' or more) on a blue ice glacier, you're doing something wrong.
Finally, effectively managing the slack via good communication & pacing, traveling when the glacier surface is still frozen, and doing proper route-finding will eliminate almost all of the possibility of a major crevasse fall.
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what's the euro size? I'd like a spare pair of 42 or 42.5s.
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It has been 7 years since the last update to the Exit 38/32 books. With Garth's support, I am working on a new, comprehensive edition that should be out around next December (maybe sooner). It's time now to add in all of the new lines that have gone up in the last seven years (or any climb that went unrecorded previously). I'll put out a request for photos sometime in the future.
So right now, I'm looking for this beta from anywhere in the North Bend area (32,38, rattlesnake, fun forest, etc):
--new walls
--new routes
--unrecorded first ascent information
Send me an email or PM with your beta.
Thanks!
kurthicksATgmail.com
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Make me an offer.
Also, I have a 60cm Camp Corsa Nanotech (the red one), 60cm. light use. $100 or trade for 50cm.
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In seattle. prefer local pickup, but will ship if buyer pays shipping. email me kurthicksATgmail
BD Carbon Black Prophets with BD Twist leashes. picks are ok, but could be replaced. $150
Grivel Compact 3rd tool. 48cm, i think. with BD leash. $60
Primus Gravity multi-fuel stove, no pump. very light use. works with gas canisters as-is and with liquid fuel if you buy a pump. $60
Original Jetboil. new o-ring installed. works great. $25
OR Axcess Pant. Medium. New. 2012 model. $200
North Face Apex Pant. Medium. New. comes with AMGA logo on the leg for street cred. $100
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buy it from Best Buy and get their warranty. It covers user damage, except water (I think). I've had them replace 5 or 6 cameras over the years under warranty.
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Still finding lots to do at the crags!
Little Si
Repo II anchor replacement
October 2013
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WTF? Did you get any contact information? License plates?
I will be over this week and can spend time doing graffiti removal. Shoot me an email with the crag info. kurthicks@gmail
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yeah, snow down to the top of Snow Creek Wall yesterday.
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I'm in. Check your PMs
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Those are on my list for the fall. The same thing occurs at Exit 38. Not to mention the chain/washer stack anchors.
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Hey Adam,
Thanks for the information. I'd love to be involved with your work and tie-in together.
Kurt Hicks
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If you don't want to buy a new rope, just have the leader tie into the middle of the rope and belay on both strands. Shorter pitches, but it will give you a much greater likelihood of catching a fall and a decreased chance of cutting your rope on sharp terrain features.
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I briefly looked at it, gave up, sold the pack, and bought the Speed.
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Gene was telling me about this. I need to put it on my list! Nice work Darin.
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friends just did serpentine without axe/crampons a couple days ago... the descent will be the crux, unless you walk east around the Snow Creek Glacier.
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It's open for anyone Dan. Have them shoot me an email. I'm gone all week, but around next week.
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How about a massive white haul bag (like 100L). Once owned by the local hardman, Krawarik... $75?
Washington Bolt Replacement
in Access Issues
Posted
I agree Ron. Thanks for chiming in!
Most of the funk in Leavenworth isn't that funky. There aren't that many 1/4" or 5/16" button heads that remain really (but it's fun to go looking for them). And 5/16" are really strong if they were done right the first time (and really hard to remove!). I haven't replaced a single fixed pin with a bolt, nor do I plan on it. The goal is to never change of the character of a route and to evaluate the need for replacement one piece at a time.