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Miloshk_Antonopov

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Posts posted by Miloshk_Antonopov

  1. yes pedyialite is also good as water or better when one is training hard and running often. i am not liking gatorade as it is often making me urinate to much and all the time when running. i am finding pedyialite to be good with a strong food concentrat before after a long training cycle of one month or more and before a difficult climb or to of maybe grade V or something. this is good advice for a casual climber to take if he is wanting to climb more hard.

  2. thank you for many interesting answer to questions here. i am interesdt in creatine for purpose of increasing water in musle to aid in recovery on climbs of great length however it seems this is not to be effective in the alpine environment! primary interest of mine was to increase water capacity for long day climbs of great difficulty where water is not often available to have or carry not to increase bulk greatly as this is contrary to a climbers goal as we all know. i am also not sayinhg that bulk is not good for a climber as well as strength is importatn but un needed wait can be difficult on difficult climbs.

     

    i am often using ULTIMATE OROUNGE in training at this time.

     

    the picture i have chosen is from lock stock and from my favorite movie also! cheers to football players and climber heroes everywhere bigdrink.gif

     

    milosh k

  3. i am often using creatine in training to help with hydrating and building musles. i am also now thinking that it would be useful to be using creatine before long climbs and trips as it will have more water in musle and prevent dehydration faster? i am thinking this or that it will be creating more need for water while climbing on a long climb and in that case it will be bad to use for grades five and six?

    who will now the answer to my question?

     

    +milosh k

  4. You said in an ealier post that harry pi is your american climbing friend.

     

    i have not said this and it is untrue! what are you a colonel of i may ask and i believe the answer is lies!

     

    i am not aware of harry pi or any american climbers other than one russian american who i am often climbing with.

    please be careful with what you are saying and suggesting and may i let you know that no harry is my equal.

     

    milosh k

  5. i am climbing everday for twenty two years and am not having such problems with joint and tendons. it is matter of proper diet and training and you will not have such problems. it is also maybe in some cases matter of genes in which case Russian peoples will not have troubles as they are meant to work HARD and not be drinking soft drinks and eating cookie all day.

    may you continue to climb hard in your training girl and climb at squamish soon as that is real Russian canadien climbing!

  6. i am disapointed as no one person has answered my question. it is probably true that you are all asleep and have not yet started to train or work in america which i find odd as the sun has already been up here in canada even!

    i am leaving for work now and will await your response later but have eaten strips with sauce and three apricots instead of steaks with egg for today at least.

  7. what is harry pi and how is this my equal? i am not familiar with this and have only just noticed it nowe but expect someone to answer as this concerns me i think.

    i am done training and must leave for work now but expect some response soon!

  8. and j gowan how have you progresed from this instruction above? are you now climbing harder than before and if so please tell us so that we may now we have helped you climb stronger.

    when you visit squamish you must also visit my wall so that you may see many good climbing problems to study and try.

  9. it is true that a cam that is very broken can be used for aid climbing. i am often using cams with only three or two pieces remaining on the head and they are good to stand on in aid when you are doing simple moves and have no chance of falling and the cam is placed properly and tight in a crack. i find they work well and should not be throwgn away at all.

  10. i am often finding that chicken strip from KFC/PFK is convenient and good for breakfast morning protien while running. bullion cubes are also making nice addition to this when on trails. at home i am almost always having steak and egg untill my wife is almost sick of making it!

    these are often good breakfast foods for a climber with a very HARD training regime everyday and i would like to now what other things you are often eating in the morning as i am about to have breakfast before work. with wife in alaska it is often difficult to buy grocery with time for training and i am needing ideas. what are you eating right nowe cascade climber?

  11. it is important to be running everyday as i am and you will not then feel soreness. in morning i am running five miles and eating on my way back and all day i am fine. i also suggest that drinking not enough water can cause to much soreness for running when cramps happen. also cold temperature is hard for musle to be warm and work hard. spend time running and eating proper diet and you will have less problem ansd climb much harder little one you are smart to do this.

  12. this is great climb report and i am glad all american climbers are now home safe and full. may you continue to climb such routes and not question those with doubts

    about grades and such this is for you to determine.

    it is good for americans in this northwest to begin pushing limits as you say and follow as canadiens do to.

     

    continue to train hard in preparation for the next climb and may good climbing be upon you.

  13. these are good pictures of ice climbing and many of you are to be proud to be training so hard even in a poor season.

    may you continue to train so hard everyday.

  14. i am having just yesterday returned from alaska and flying over the coast range in small seaplane. i am seeing many climbs both in alaska and canada that were making good first ascents and nice projects for many climbers. i am of course excited for training today again and tomorow of course.

    may you all train hard and accomplish many projects also.

  15. i am thinking one good way of training for this is to visualize ones self doing moves on holds you see. you are to be thinking of how you will look from ground as you are maybe reaching from one hold to next and forming strategy as in chess before climbing this route. this is classic Russian technique! maybe you are finding that your strategy is not working when you are on this route and maybe you are thinking that it will be working once you are there but something will happen.

    to avoid getting fatigued you must train HARD everyday. you must be building strength in fingers and hands that will last for a lifetime of climbing. you are smart to look for rests while on routes especially where you may place gear nearby and rest with it close to ones self. good rests are not needing hands at all to stay on wall. also keeping mind calm and not gripping over hard to holds is helping one rest and climb at same time. be thinking and analizing while one climbs!

    keep training hard little one and you will be finding success soon!

  16. i am laughing so very hard! it is true gym climbers and sport climbers are not hard climbers unless they are also traditional climbers or russians of course to. your mention of mocha is so true as i often say americans are drinking to much starbuck and eating far to many crybabie sugar cookie. it is making them soft like butter and sugar instead of iron like red meat will. yellaf.gif

     

    may you train and climb very hard friend and good luck to you i am leaving to go to work now.

  17. thank you to catbird for information on rappel this is very detailed and mark of a scientist!

     

    fence sitter you are mistaking my joke on ropes and length of a mans thing. i am not in russia for over four years although my wife was recently in Ukraine with family. so i could not be third partner but climb is very good as you will see. good luck and peets vodka friend!

  18. I am most often happy with OROUNGE COLOUR TCU and RED ALIENS then GOLD 4# DMM and also .75 SIZED CAMALOT. These are very fine cams of different brands to be climbing on. DMM is fine cam in larger size and very more lightweight than Camalot with same range.

  19. it is said you used two 50, meter rope for rappel in detailed report above but what is actual length of rappel?

    perhaps one russian length rope 70, m will work or one canadian length rope 60, m will work rather than your two american length rope 50, m?

    i am russian canadian interested in climbing gib route with russian american friend who enjoys these american mountains as fun. your rappel interests us and we are wanting to now what size rope is need.

     

    thank you much from Milosh K. Antonopov

  20. 5,11D is being one step below russian level of technical beginning at 5,12. A4 is mark for russian level of technical and is fine for beginning climber in squamish.

    i am being in squamish area everyday but am not hearing much of this climb although i am probably already done it and did not now.

  21. i am not familiar with polanders or american. i am russian living in canada and climbing at squamish everyday. routes are not so soft here. not soft like in america but not hard like in Urals.

    when you are running five miles everyday and eating four meals red meat and climbing hard everyday in approach shoes you will no what hard climbing is to.

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