markseker

Trip: Mt Hood - South side Date: 6/20/2012 Trip Report: Summited yesterday via most used variation of SS route, which continues to be the old chute. A few of the 30-40 near summit yesterday used the old-standard Pearly Gates route. Above 9500', while air condition was stellar, surface was not in the novice-friendly condition typical for June most notably due to absence of a defined "stairway to heaven" boot path. It wasn't icy, but snow was too hard and fresh (it snowed in past week; more expected this week) for the path to be made. Thus, front and side pointing are required to summit, skills the novice climber isn't likely to have or enjoy. Especially descending. Protection via anchored rope recommended for novice teams. Yesterday, my 1st-timer teammate (42 yr old fit endurance athlete and outdoors-woman) called it the hardest, scariest thing she'd done. It was my 28th summit of Hood and I found it one of the most demanding SS climbs I've done.

Trip: Mt Hood - SS dog Date: 8/20/2010 Trip Report: Mt. Hood, Oregon: South Side summit trip report, Aug 20, 2010 Who says Mt Hood isn't safe to climb in August? Most years it's probably true, but 2010 isn't one of them. SUMMARY: While the route isn't suited for a first-timer unless protection is placed, the usual exposed rock above the 10,500' hogback is not exposed now. Solid snow available on the common "old chute" upper reaches of the south side summit route, all the way to the summit ridge. Crux section top 500' snowcupped snow without bootpath with little detected objective hazard of rock/ice fall on ascent or descent. Main hazard was debris from climbers above, as route is generally on fall line. All teams off the crux pitch by 10am when sun began to warm it all. Summit ridge has significant exposure with mixed combo platter of loose rock, boulders to hop, knife edge snow and easy snowfield /scree. True summit free of snow but still needs a carpenter to reassemble fire lookout station in bad repair. Route below hogback mixed with lots of exposed rock as visible from TH. Hiker trail even usable on triangle moraine. Below crater rock, old gear and cables from historic hauling system exposed. 4 teams (teams of 1,1,2,2) summited today; Our time TH to summit: 6.5 hours GEAR: Helmet, ax, crampons, "3rd tool" was useful, summit antic props PHOTOS (public gallery): http://picasaweb.google.com/markseker/MtHood?feat=directlink Gear Notes: Helmet, ax, crampons, "3rd tool" was useful Approach Notes: Left town at midnight, left TH at 2am.

Trip: Mt Jefferson - SW Ridge Date: 8/3/2010 Trip Report: Mt. Jefferson, Oregon: Summit trip report, Aug 2-4, 2010 SUMMARY: Entire SW Ridge route including summit block in great condition for smooth hiking/climbing on standard lines per Oregon High (Jeff Thomas). Our team of 3 (Brian S, Vern K, Mark S) left Pamelia Lake TH std route to faint SW ridge access trail used from PCT approx 25 mins S of Milk Creek crossing, then easy bushwacking to gain SW ridge. Camped at existing site at 6500' where small remaining snow patches provided water. Next snow approx 7500'. Ridge bare except for small snow patch requiring crampons to R of horn below red saddle. Running belay across solid all-snow boot path traverse and around corner to base of summit block. Continued mixed climbing NE to 4th class ramp back SW to final pitch belay station. Crampons/ax off for final 120' fun scamper to lick top rock. Rapped off to reverse it all. To our surprise and delight, no rock/ice fall detected on 5pm traverse down. TH to camp:~6 hours; Camp to summit: 10 hours; Back to camp: 8 hours. CHALLENGES: Where to turn left off PCT? Who has the bug juice? How do we unjam this knot caught at the summit sling ring? Anyone have extra water (16 hours into summit day)? Where exactly is our camp (lost after dark)? GEAR: 2x30m ropes, 3 pickets, nuts, dozen slings, 2 screws (unused), 3rd tool. PHOTOS (public gallery): http://picasaweb.google.com/markseker/JeffersonSummitViaSwRidge?feat=directlink Gear Notes: GEAR: 2x30m ropes, 3 pickets, nuts, dozen slings, 2 screws (unused), 3rd tool. Approach Notes: Pamelia Lake TH to PCT

We talked with one exiting team (July 1) and watched 3 other teams (July 2 -3) on the JPG route this past weekend. All abandonded their climbs at the impassable schrund, so we decided to play cards, work on our tans and swim in cold waters of Jeff Park instead. Here's a shot of the upper JPG which shows boot paths and the nice horseshoe schrund: Didn't I see you there walking around with duct tape sunglasses?

Geo-Graphics of Beaverton publishes my most used map: Mt Hood / Columbia Gorge Recreation Map i end up wearing out about one per year. Available at REI, Mountain Shop, OMC, etc. Hiking, skiing, biking even climb trails shown against 40' topo map.

A1 - no, i was on a slow traverse when the trapdoor opened A2 - pretty slow, as you can surmise from my windy track in the two photos A3 - no, i was traversing

Climb: Hood-Dog Date of Climb: 4/27/2006 Trip Report: This report is my first-hand one, as the halfwit who opened the schrund this year. It's not a climb report, but a partial descent report with focus on the bergschrund. These are the words I sent to pals who called after figuring out the victim in various unwanted media reports. =========================== Yes, you know the fortunate idiot. I can confirm that I did snowboard directly into Mt Hood's bergschrund at noon on 27-April-2006. ...thus making the 2006 climb season safer for all as the well-known but previously hidden crevasse of the popular south side route is now located and clearly marked. I made this bonehead move on my descent after summitting on a gorgeous day during a solo climb, my 23rd to the summit. To be sure, 30+ people summitted that morning, including two Mazama teams lead by Tim Scott and Chris LeDoux, each of whom I talked with prior to my little boo-boo. Terry Cone was also ascending solo nearby and I spoke with him moments before my submarine antic. My errant method for schrund-seeking was a spectacular speedy punch thru the top of the west half of the schrund, which was not visible until my fat dumb ass snowboarded over the abyss. It was my first true trap-door experience... I now feel some small affinity with Joe Simpson of Touching the Void fame. The entire schrund as of that day was almost completely closed and the spine of the hog quite safe and secure as a climb route. The only evidence of the schrund we all know is below was a single but small hole into the abyss directly on the spine's boot track and then some long skinny cracks off to the east at least 40 feet away. The unbroken west-side slope where I chose my initial snowboard line had faint but clear tracks of skiers from days-earlier descents of the west crater route. My geometry error was only a few feet off - had I begun my line just 10' lower, I wouldn't be typing this report. As such I ended up sliding along directly above the entire length of the bergschrund, held up by early season snow bridges until...in less than a second the trapdoor opened a hole approx. 15' x 3', and it wasn't sunny any more. The crevasse configuration where I dropped in was cave like and typical for the schrund, uneven and approx 75' long, 0' -10' feet wide and 15' deep where I landed. My entry point was over the cave's tallest part, so I got to free-fall for a moment before glancing off the downhill wall and sliding to the bottom of the acute V-shaped crevasse. Soft snow covered my board and bindings and it was jammed into the bottom of the V. I was relieved to see rocks that my rig had partially landed on, so I knew there wasn't further to fall. I was unhurt but couldn't easily move and worried that more snow/ice would fall before I could get out of the bindings. Snowboard bindings need to be manually released and this took a bit of snow clearing and a yoga move to accomplish. My Bikram yoga training was helpful, but the room this day was a lot cooler - and smaller - than the yoga studio's. The uphill wall was vertical to overhanging a bit and the downhill wall 60-70 degrees. With my ice ax I had in hand during the descent, I cut steps and worked up 5-6 feet. Eventually I got verbal - but not visual - connection with Simon Weaver, who seemed to be on the scene first, and was safely positioned on the slope below the crack. I let him know I was unhurt and moving up, and that he and others would be safe as long as they stayed 4-5 feet below the new hole. He threw in a rope with harness, which I donned, and the belay helped me out and over the soft overhanging lip. I was in the hole 20-30 minutes, including the initial 5 seconds I consider my scariest to date. Consistent with my theory "Nobody takes photos when they're scared," I have no photos while in the hole. But here are five shot immediately after, two of which show the actual track I shredded on the 50-60 feet from the spine of the hogsback to the trap door: http://members3.clubphoto.com/mark258190/3989329/ To clarify media reports, I didn't walk down the route (why bring the board?). I did walk down to the saddle to talk with the wide-eyed Mazama team full of 1st-timers, but then had a marvelous, spring-snow, largely untracked, sunny and warm 29-minute ride from 10,500' to 6000' and the car and a cold, tasty Mirror Pond microbrew. Renee was not pleased and I am currently grounded while she invents my punishment, which seems to have multiple parts. Thanks again for your call. -s ===========================

can you list the table of contents? Also, how does it compare with similar guides?

can anyone help here? ...or, can you encourage someone who has seen the JP glacier recently to reply with a TR or a photo?

I'm interested in conditions of the Jeff Park Glacier route on Mt Jefferson. Anyone know or seen the top of this glacier recently to know about the shrund crossing? photos? Did the route last year so think the part above the glacier will be in good shape.

same shot published as matterhorn on summitpost

thursday night (tonight) is the best window of coming days, but friday looks decent as well, if the next front is soft or slow to arrive. use this site as your single best forecast: http://www.srh.noaa.gov/data/forecasts/O...city=Mount+Hood

I've consumed beer on summits of hood, rainier and st helens - alas this luau was a dry one.

Climb: Hood-dog Date of Climb: 5/28/2005 Trip Report: Exec Summary - Renee (5th summit) and I (...21st) led our pals Myra and Mark and Patty to the scene of this party, and sure enough we entertained ourselves and all of Oregon who could see the summit of Mt Hood with the most colorful summit antic I've ever seen. Surf here to see what was happening at 5:45am on May 28th at the highest point in Oregon (warning: may need glacier specs to view): http://members3.clubphoto.com/mark258190/3298321/ Trip Report detail - Time log: 11:02pm depart TL Lodge @ 6000'; 4:30am depart Hogsback @10,500'; 5:32am arrive summit @11,240'; 6am depart summit; ~9am arrive beer cooler at car; Air cond: 55F to start (very warm), light NE winds entire route, summit 10-15 mph steady ~40F. High thin clouds blocked 3/4 moon, thus we used headlamps until 4am. Surface cond: dirt trail avail to silcox, then snow stairway entire route to summit; excellent footing in non-icy soft snow with little postholing; Crampons on @ 9500'; Shrund open with easy crossing west of center; Followed teams above thru old west chute (my first) up, then used std pearly gates on descent; Hogsback crowd control: ~100 summitters today, we were among first 25, thus avoided hogsback jam. We chose no rope up or down, although most teams used ropes. Usual idiots present with jeans, no crampons, poorly roped, etc. Glisaded from crater rock to silcox in soft then slushy snow. Team cond: Pasta pre-game meal at our home 7pm. Climbing we moved quickly up with short transitions/breaks. Renee felt nauseated up high but climbed thru it; Hogsback descent was slow for our two least experienced; Summit antic: Luau party. All felt good, no issues, except for the sandwiches I left at home. Ran into Jay C and Ed B leading 11 and solo Kipp B. -m Gear Notes: rope/harness may have helped novices on descent of the hog

rime ice man, sorry, it was actually hammergel, very nice and tasty and energizing - kept warm in bib pocket. like slimjims too - - so much that i had to give 'em up for lent. they will return to regular diet in the mountains after easter !! -anticlover

minolta 7hi digital with polarizing filter

sweatingboozer - i don't think it was us. when we arrived at summit @4:15p, nobody was to be found anywhere near the top. -anticlover

Climb: Mt Hood-Leuthold Col Date of Climb: 2/25/2005 Trip Report: Jay and I did our first climb of this route, one week after climbing neighboring Reid Headwall. Route conditions like other posted TRs of this route. Only change would have been to start at 4am vs 6am to reduce the rock/ice pummelling we endured in the hourglass. Reached summit at 4:15pm, approx 10 hours after stepping on snow. Glissaded most of descent from crater rock for 12.5 hour round trip. Weather was ideal, cold ,CAVU, little wind anywhere. FL=6500; Here are 27 photos: http://members3.clubphoto.com/mark258190/3067985/ -anticlover Gear Notes: Used all of - 5 pickets 3 screws ice ax + "3rd tool" each 30M 8mm dry rope Powergel

My partners and i left these. REWARD if returned > please email me at anticlover2004-a@yahoo.com 18Feb2005 - Glacier glasses in black case - Reid headwall - launched at about 10,000' 25Feb2005 - std black diamond ice screw - Leuthold probably near hourglass. THANKS! -anticlover

info and recommendations based on 3 hood climbs this month, including yesterday, all descended ss route: shrund is open to both sides but has strong bridge, no issue at this time. last may crack-seeker was out of state climber walking too far east on ss route; follow footpath from top of palmer to crater rock you will encounter no weird cracks. lack of snow has had no effect on ss route this year; it looks just like usual (exepct on the lower ski slopes). i've yet to have anyone show me a photo or give other compelling evidence for an avalanch hazard on the ss route. no snowshoes. winter climb has HUGE benefits: sleep like god has us set up to do daily + team is rested/stronger + climb in daylight. thus step on snow at 6-7am, lunch on summit or hog, down by sunset. -anticlover

no idea what normal conditions are on west side routes, this was my first time. in fact we set out to do leuthold but thought reid hw looked good, schrund small (although one of our team fell in to the 10 feet bottom but was able to self rescue), so made the experimental move to reid, knowing it must be climed when early and cold. we had ice raining on us a fair amount, mostly from whomever was leading, but only a few big chunks that hurt. keeping head down was the norm for #2, #3 on the rope. just spoke to pals who did leuthold yesterday, party of 6, reported mainly a problem of postholing, all the way from palmer thru upper leuthold col. they had new snow from saturday/sunday - never saw our tracks. -anticlover

nice work skyclimber. we were party of 3 that began a few hours behind you, lost your tracks around the reid schrund, wandered around on the icy headwall for enough hours that we got to the summit under a bright moon vs the preferred sunset. too long of a day for our liking, but good conditions (for a team who knew the route!) attached is our redlined route. which route would you say you climbed? -anticlover

Climb: mt hood-dog Date of Climb: 2/2/2005 Trip Report: 6am - depart portland, team of two 8am - step on snow; 6 climbers ahead put in stairway from 8500' to summit; surface generally unconsolidated 3-day old powder over hard pack or ice; shrund open 4 inches west side of hog; entire route in great shape, easy; crampons above 10500' sunny, little wind; FL @ 10000 1pm - summit; a bit more breezy; CAVU 2pm - played around on crater rock until nearly falling into fumerole; backed off 2:20p - began snoboard descent from hosgback; fun, good shredding weaving around rocks 3pm - beer @ car 5pm - arrive in portland in time for meeting with president to learn state of the union a great day to climb, not a great year for downhillers, check out the exposed rocks: http://langek.dyndns.org/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=hood20050202 -m

no, it has closed and can be walked over, a bit soft but presented no problem to 6 of us who summitted last wednesday.

excellent ideas, thanks donnv.