iceslut

Thanks for the info! We postponed our ascent attempt scheduled for this morning due to the unusual avy forecast. Headin' up next week instead.

Any beta on the recent condition of the pearly gates? I realize that the current forecast will likely keep things dynamic. Thanks!

i drove up from portland to meet my friend from couer d'alene in banks over the weekend. we hit pee wee's for a day 'cause the deathcicles didn't impress us. had some interesting times fightin' the brush, but overall made a full day's adventure out of the day. ice was peelin' off the headwalls a bit, but there was enough solid ice to make it fun. needs some more cold. can't believe the access there...will definitely be back to try the climbs that weren't formed.

most people.

This weekend saw some traffic so the boot pack up the hogsback is well established. The old chute was softening up pretty good in the late morning. All this, of course, could vary significantly depending on the weather this week. If you take the pearly gates, each variation has some water ice that slowed folks down quite a bit. Hope the weather turns in your favor.

brief comments on today's summit via the pearly gates: - the left variation (not the old chute) is a breeze if you have an extra tool. - there was a significant traffic problem in the chute that might be solved if someone would just haul up some signals. - and a special note to one climber: while it was certainly forecast to be a nice day... blue jeans?! skull

this "hair raising" down step that you mentioned...is it in a section of the summit ridge that one would intersect coming from the old chute?

thanks...i have played up in the icicle creek drainage on a couple of occasions, but i was not aware that mountaineers creek was also in the vicinity. from the photos, it reminds me of some old stomping grounds in montucky.

i have never been to mountaineer's creek. for next year, what is the route from portland to this impressive ice arena? thanks!

super! i climbed mean green last year and found it to be a real gem. the whole area is amazing.

thanks for the thoughts. i have family in montucky; if i'm visitin' it helps to let them know in advance so they can prepare for my greatness.

regarding Lillooet...how does the area hold up through the year "usually"? I am trying to plan a mid february trip with a friend and we wanted to go somewhere different than montucky (where we are both from - he still lives there). canada seemed like a good bet, but if the ice conditions aren't anywhere near dependable, i might choose to avoid the guessing game and go with what i know. any thoughts are appreciated. and yes, i am aware that ice is unpredictable.

only if there is sun...

btw...anyone know what the thin (as in not wide) two-tiered climb next to and above SR14 is called? just past Cape Horn? it looks fun and the base is merely feet from the road - WI 3/4.

do you have some rough guidelines of what is private property in that area? i was not aware of this. cheers. good to know...just reviewed a map and it appears we were within the GP National Forest.