Sloth_Man

One week. Should be leaving the valley on saturday the 24th.

And would you really want to wade through the mountie testosterone to get to them?

It looks like I'll be driving down to Yosemite May 16th or 17th, anybody wanna ride/drive?

I don't climb in groups of 50 asswipe.

How about this for positive feedback? You Suck Mountie!!!!!! Stay the frick out of the Icicle and go climb some moss choss. Only 50? WTF is up with that. Will that be enough so that your 'leaders' will feel special? Gimme a break

I made it back in finally. You guys are funny (mostly) this thread is entertaining as hell. I aggree anybody who comes in as climb4christ is a dick and deserves everything they get. When I think that 30% of the US population is evengelical christian I get real scared. We're supposed to be an educated people, but really we're just as backwards as all them other crazy religious countries. Whenever I hear Shrub talk jesus crap I get pretty irrate. It's as if the jerk off never even took a high school civics class. Anyway, anybody who comes off with this "I know and you'll suffer if you don't believe" is nothing but a cultist, and far from what I would think a true follower of Jesus would be like.

and she's hot then you're both welcome to take up climbing. If either you or your room mate are not hot than that person should be banned from climbing. For those of you who are hot and do take up climbing one of the rules is to fawn over old fat guys struggling up moderate climbs because while we may not climb as hard as those crash pad punks we do it with more style. Just remember all those cute young guys are just male bimbos. It's us older guys you wanna go for.

I'm not arguing the quality of the crag. I think it's a great place to climb, maybe the best crag in the state. But to care whether there's a pin scar at the base of of a wall that is 60% missing, has an un-natural rubble filled swamp at the bottom, has raging trains and gunshots in the background, etc. seems anal to me and makes me want to go pound pins in along the whole base of the LTW. Like I said get lathered up when peoples climbing style (free or aid) alters a climb for you, but otherwise this is just bolt war type B.S. Wanna save the world from human impact go get spayed or neutered and stay on the couch.

Ya know people who get uptight about pins driven at the base of the LTW are pretty anal in my book. I can understand getting all lathered up about somebody nailing a clean crack where it affects the climb, but at the base who gives a frick. I mean c'mon it's an old quarry and mostly a land of ugly destruction. There's freekin bolts right next to good cracks and bright red slings hanging all over the place. Gimme a break! If you're looking for a pristine climbing experience at Index you be confused man.

Now that I know they're not dead I can say that. Stupid fucks!

Besides I don't go for trolls. And even if I did I'm no ropegun. BTW might want to check the weather. Doesn't look like a good ropegun weekend.

This is great. Fully entertaining. BTW if it's needed I'll volunteer to help compare and contrast.

Nobody who looks that good would get into climbing. Too much stink, dirt, and boredom involved. Well maybe there's sport climbing out of the back of the car. Oh well, too old, too stinky, too slow, and not a good enough climber to even get into that league.

That sounds like an excellent crag. Three offwidths on one crag? Sweet. Man I wish there wasn't rain coming in. Maybe I'll just aid something tommorow. Many thanks.

You guys already gave it away, and it looks like my kind of crack climbing. I love to grovel and use my whole body in a crack. So where's the trail up there?

My wife seems to be slipping away from cancer, but I don't feel a lot of pitty for Robertson. At least he's lived a fair amount of time, and all of it spent preaching hate, and getting rich. Maybe now he'll change his tune and show some compassion. I kind of doubt it though. He'll probably be a hatefull vampire to the end.

Cause he's too damn stupid, or he's got his hands down his pants and couldn't click on the link.

Right now I come up as lurker. Can't seem to shake off that title and get a good one.

Looks nice. Where is it?

Anybody use the Trango Flex Cams? I'm thinking of getting a set.

Well I'm no expert but I think Zion ratings are pretty much new wave. C2 in Zion would be aiding through loose ground on marginal gear with body breaking falls below. I think new wave C3 would be the same with death falls below. I guess that makes C4 death falls with really manky gear and really bad rock. In new wave ratings C5 or A5 doesn't exist. I think Moonlight Buttress gets a C0 or C1 which is kind of a joke when you think about the fact that cams can pull out of that rock if placed carelessly and there's 100ft+ sections of leapfrogging. There were pull out tracks all the way up, and I only placed cams in perfect pockets in the crack not in parrallel sections, but the sand still ground out from under every placement. I remember thinking if this pulls I'm gonna fall 200ft!. In my book that's at least C2. I think by new wave standards TC would be C0. Everything I've done at the lower wall would also be C0. New wave ratings are stupid. They make ratings completely useless, but it seems they're falling out of favor with the elite bunch of sandbaggers that are wall climbers. It's gotten to be such a joke. The Leaning Tower C0?? That is totally dependent on large amounts of fixed gear, and giving no rating to the difficulty of the moves only the danger. To me C0 is like City Park, straight forward non-strenuous moves with no danger.

the aiders. I only have one type of cam hook. I think for Index I need to get a couple of those micro ones and leave them on the aiders as well. I'd definitely rather cam hook than micro nut any day. Somehow over the years I've lost some hooks and pins. I only have a few blades a single lost arrow and some sawn off baby angles left. Are there consecutive bat hooks? I'll have to see if I can round up my other one. Dana's Arch sounds really cool.

But I also figured anybody could see them. I'll be there in the morning but not real early. Probably go up to Dana's Arch later in the day.

Hey all, Anybody going to Index this weekend? I'm going to be up there doing something. I left some biners and a stopper on "The Black Slime" aka Numbah Ten last weekend so don't bootify them if you get there before me. I was driven back by gobs of soaking black slime and the dreaded drip. Besides you guys don't know where that gear has been. My partner for this weekend is less than a gumby so we'll probably stick with first pitches of the lower wall. Maybe I'll nail all the 'free' cracks, since I'm too fat, old, and bitter to climb harder than 5.6. That oughta rile up the natives. BTW what happened to the Tavern in town. I always liked that place; it was stoney.

Hey thanks for the info. I'll definitely give Dana's arch a try. What's the consensus on aid ratings around here? I remember when I did Town Crier years ago I had to cam hook past a loose chunk in the crack right above the ledge on the first aid pitch. That was C2 in my book; I don't remember anything C2ish higher up as shown on the topo. But when I started climbing in Yosemite and Zion, C2 was more like balls out scary crap that I would have rated C3. I'd like to do Green Dragon (Drag On?), but I don't want to get into any heinous new wave C2. Any insight on that route? It also looks like one of the waterfall routes with the A3 knifeblade crack up high could be good. Does the waterfall ever dry up?