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Everything posted by Dulton

  1. Has anyone been up Buckner this time of year? What were conditions like?
  2. Buckner this time of year?

    Ouch.... gotta bring the mountain bike....
  3. Buckner this time of year?

    That looks nasty, I was hoping all this percp. over the last couple weeks would be building a little bit of a base yet still be anchored by the rock beneath.... maybe thats just wishful thinking, maybe I'll just camp out at Sahale Camp and sit out the weather.... hmmmmm
  4. Question on crampons

    I took the G12's up DC on Rainier twice and they were pretty worn down afterwards, but both times the cleaver was almost completely melted out so we were on rock for 45 minutes or so. They have been pretty tough. I was a little surprised that I had to sharpen them after 4 trips 2 of which involved chossy rock.
  5. Question on crampons

    I have the G12's and I love them, I haven't done anything really steep (at the most 50 degrees) in them and they perform very well. I also have used the BD Contact Strap one time on the Emmons route on Rainier and they had great purchase, but I didn't like the fact that they were hinged and bent so much. I like the G12's and use em' all the time.
  6. Conditions on Emmons

    Good to hear!!
  7. Does anyone use the Trango Extreme S boots or know anything about em'? Thinking about getting a pair for technical climbing and maybe some glacier slogs like Rainier, but want a boot that can make the transition to mixed rock and ice routes too so i need a little bit of ankle flexibility. From what I've read and heard so far these boots sound really awsome. Any comments, complaints or praises?? Thanks for the beta!
  8. Headlamps?

    http://www.ccrane.com/3_million_spotlight.asp thought i should enlighten on how to use.... Step 1: take one normal climbing helmet Step 2: take one 4 foot peice of duct tape Step 3: take yer 7lbs of candlepower Step 4: tape the sucker to your helmet Step 5: enjoy
  9. Kautz Glacier Conditions

    Good job and sweet pics! Definetaly pondering a trip...
  10. Ingraham Direct TR

    Started out this trip with my climbing partner, Greg, forgetting his ice axe (signs of things to come maybe??). So we drove down from Sunshine Point to the Summit Haus to rent him a good ol' RMI 10lb ice axe WOOHOO!! Hiking our way up to Muir under a solid deck of clouds that finally broke up at around 8700ft to blue skies. Arrived at Muir in 2:56 mins (no, i don't have GPS waypoints to prove it ) to gusty winds and a hopeful weather forcast. We learned that we would be one of only three teams attempting the Ingraham Direct route the next morning after a huge summit day previous. Picked up a third member for our rope team to make three (a german guy named Christian). Started at about 2:00am under clear skies and a steady 25 mile an hour sustained wind at Muir with heavy gusts. When we arrived at Cathedral Gap 20mins later we looked out over the clouds and lo-and-behold Norther Lights lit up the sky!!! It was the coolest thing! As we continued up the Ingraham glacier the route was very well traveled (solid boot path, hard to miss) and a very well wanded route. We wove our way through the icefall over solid snowbridges that were pretty thick at least 5 feet thick and in pretty good shape. This route won't last long, however, as high freezing levels and lots of sun exposure is melting the bridges quick. There was quite a bit of Serac debris on the route as well which was cause for concern, however an early start is the best solution. Continued up under steadily stronger winds to about 13,600 feet (according to my altimiter) where we had our bit of adventure. Our German friend Christian came up to a fairly large crevasse that had no snow bridge. It was probably only 4 feet wide but the steep angle of the slope meant that it was also about 4 feet tall. Well Christian descided he wanted to climb on over this thing without any kind of belay or even much warning to me and Greg.... and surprise, surprise, he slipped off the edge and down in to oblivian. So I jumped on my axe and yelled for Greg to set an anchor so we can get him outta there. As Greg is getting ready to clip the sling onto the rope (as I wait on my axe struggling to keep from sliding backwards) out pops Christian! He had fallen 20 feet and taken all the remaining slack out of the rope but hit an intermediate ledge of soft snow and was able to climb part of the way out, WHEW!! So we belayed him the rest of the way out untill he was safe. We checked to see if was he was ok and then attempted to set up anchors for a belay across the crevasse so we could conitinue our way to the summit. That was succesfull, but as soon as we crossed we turned around because of really really high winds and crazy gusts from every direction that made climbing next to impossible. So we jumped back over the crevasse and started our way down. Lost some sunglassess, and a disposable camera on the route, so if anyone finds these, please let me know ! Talked to the Rangers quite a bit and they are saying that ID will be out in a week or so and most people will have to go up DC. Gib ledges is still in good shape and there is a boot path pretty much all the way. They also said that the Kautz is shaping up really well as well as Furher Finger. Oh, and a heads up... the rangers are now channelling everyone up the "summer route" instead of the "winter route" because the rock has melted out and vegetation is getting trampled. The conditions this summer on Rainier are gonna be great, especially on the less crowded routes, LETS GO!!!
  11. Rainier this weekend?

    Is anyone gonna be up on the slopes of good ol' Rainier this weekend? Anyone going for the summit (I'll race ya to the Muir hut!)??
  12. Rainier this weekend?

    I think that would be a really fun route to do, at least from the beta I've seen. If your looking on doing it in June or July sometime and are looking for partners I might be interested.
  13. Rainier-Emmons

    Weekend after finals requires some sort of celebration... I might be up for that if yer lookin' for one maybe two more.
  14. What's Everyone Doing This Weekend?

    Church retreat Saturday, then going upto Muir Sunday morning, hopin' to hit the summit Monday morning..... this weekend is gonna
  15. Rainier this weekend?

    Oh gotcha... my mistake... how late is the Ice Cliff doable?
  16. Rainier this weekend?

    Amen on the early start, we want to be out of the Icefall and off the snowbridges before they all come tumbing down! Its gonna be a sweet weekend!!
  17. Rainier this weekend?

    This weekend I think the freezing leves are supposed to drop to 9-10K... lowest they've been in 6 days... its still getting into the 30's at Muir tho. I think Mike Gauthier said a couple weeks ago that he thought the Nisqually Ice Cliff was out (although, I haven't seen it in a couple weeks), he's probably had a closer look than me. It would be an awsome route to do this winter tho, thats fo sho. How is the Kautz Headwall in July in terms of objective hazards? Will that route go in late July?
  18. Rainier this weekend?

    Thats what we're looking for... We'll be climbing Ingraham Direct Monday morning and there is supposed to be a ridge of high pressure building by then. The ceiling has been pretty low 5-8k feet when the marine layer moves in, so hopefully we'll get to look out over a sea of clouds! The only thing that worries me are the high freezing levels. 13K THIS WEEK!!!
  19. Punctured Lung Question

    I took a friend up to Muir the other day who had never been to that altitude before (previously he had been to 6K, but never higher). About two days after we returned he was having very severe chest pains and a very high heart rate. He went to the hospital and they told him he had a punctured lung that was partially collapsed. My question is this: is this a result of the pressure change at 10,000 feet or the fact that he was pushing himself too hard at that altitude. Any insight would be great because I've never heard of this happening before. Thanks in advance.
  20. DC Route Beta

    yeah cadaver gap is the shizz! strongly reccommended! anyone wanna hit that up soon as soon as i kick this S.A.R.S. i got? c'mon! Like I said... just a week or so, it'd be cool to get some CC peeps up there!
  21. DC Route Beta

    Ingram Direct is the way to go, I'm going up that route in about a week if I can find some time between puling all nighters studying, and writing papers (school sux, can't wait for summer). Check out the beta on ID here Mike knows his stuff! Alpine I can taste the summer now if only the weather would cooperate!
  22. Weekend Warrior (ism)

    I'll to that!!
  23. Who sent what?

    Did the exit 38 scene on saturday.... gotta shake this dang cold!
  24. Spring Routes

    Favorite/Safest springtime Rainier routes from Muir. Gib ledges? Ingram Direct? How are these two routes or mabe even Dissapointment Cleaver in terms of rockfall, icefall and avy danger this time of year, also how are the crevasse navigation on these routes this time of year? I know these are pretty general and even obvious questions, but I've never cilmbed Rainier this time of year (i've only climbed in July) and I'm putting some serious thought into a summit attempt in the next few weeks so any Beta would be awsome THNX!
  25. Spring Routes

    Ya I wouldn't think about descending the ledges especially when the temps are getting warmer. Catbird, I remember you telling me that there was nothing falling (no rock, no ice) when you were up there, do you remember what the temps were like?