Z-Man

Wow. Theres a bunch of us, many of whom i see posting on this thread, who have made trips up there in winter and gotten skunked, or only managed a walk up eldo or sahale instead of the business. Maybe my old friend justin will show some pics of the double corniced nightmare he found back in 07. Excellent tenacity, planning, and all-around strength good sirs. Hats off.

Some of us are long gone, but hoping to return some day... cascadeclimbers was a big part of my life for many years. This site helped pave the way for great adventures and friendships for me. Happy its still here and would love to see it preserved for the history if nothing else. Is it like the pre cc.com years now? Finding partners with note cards tacked to climbing gym bulletin boards?

Right on, thanks. Havent been on the site for awhile. Theres some photos i lost track of and was hoping to track them down here. Will stay tuned

Now that the gallery is gone, is there a way for me to look for photos I posted many years ago?

TFT definitely hasn't been done in Winter. Anyone who has been up there can attest to double corniced ridges for most of the length. Bring some high explosives. Jim Nelson has for several years been looking for partners for a Winter ascent of one of the NF routes above the Sill Glacier. OlegV really wants to give it a go.

As far as I know none of these have been reported as climbed, and most of these haven't come up on this website by anyone other than me before. I've hiked in to all of them at least once, and put in attempts on most. The WF Sloan Direct in Winter I have seen a good up-close photo of in good condition exactly once. Many tiers of fat water ice. Just to the left the NWF as put up by talucat et al a few years back is very reliable and is pretty similar to other sized objectives like TCs or SGC. Makes for a great backup if you hike in there and the Direct isn't good to go. NF Booker is definitely some of the worst rock out there. Some folks would probably be upset that secrets get spilled, but that was years ago and its time for some stoke to be renewed. I have it on good authority that it holds ice in winter. I haven't heard anything about the SEF of Bear's Breast. From what you're describing sounds like it's pretty low angle and probably only worth a solo. Defnitely looks impressive. I ran into Pablo on Inspiration with a client around that time, would surprise me that he would guide a line like that, but would be cool to hear about. Looks like a pretty tough entry in Spring, but it might be more filled in earlier in the season. Too much talking, not enough climbing...

Thought I'd share some FA ideas which I've worked on over the past 12 years. Some of them are well known and have been attempted, others less so. They may or may not be worth doing, someone should let us all know. I won't be getting to them anytime soon. Winterish: NF Direct Sperry: Line by Mark and Ade back in 2010, but the obvious line straight up the middle awaits. WF Sloan: you all know this one. EF Pugh: Hella approach, great looking ramp, looks kind of like the EF of Whitehorse. NF Kent: 3 lines already, but at least two others to do. 1 day climb, reasonable approach, can see it from I-90! NF Booker: big, awesome. Reported to be decent, if not abundant, ice by the folks who have been back in there. Labor Day Route Shuksan: I've seen it filled in exactly once. Any route you want up to the summit pyramid, then the business. WF Lincoln Peak: several big lines, some probably death routes, others look reasonable NF Right Buck: NF Central was pretty rad back in 08, this one looks good too. Summerish NR of East Cashmere: 1 day c2c, one line on it already, but I think a better one awaits. NEB-NR link-up West Craggy: Old Doorish route. Did an FA on this peak looking for the Doorish route, it was mostly poop, but the route to do is the NEB, which Doorish calls good, and then finish via the NR to the summit. SEF Bears Breast: 2000' slab, could be 4th class like the route vaguely described in Beckey or there could be 5.10 NE Couloir Bonanza: May-June. I think this could be the safest route to the summit. Just around the corner from the NE Ridge. SSE/SE Ridge Berge: Granite! Looks steep and not well-featured. NR Cleator: Scary, big, nice line, good shot of it in CAG vol 2. N Couloir McMillan Spires: May-June. Chimney Rock Traverse: smaller version of a Pickets traverse, combine with Lemah for bonus. WF Lemah: Pretty impressively shear when seen from Chikamin, rock is terrible, what else is new. NER of University Peak, California, near Big Pine. 13000' beautiful granite with three N-facing soaring buttresses. Only line on it is a Beckey Route which predictably goes up loose gully between the buttresses.

Looking to do a big day out of pdx/vancouver area. Jefferson, 3 sisters marathon, something on n side of adams, or some cragging if thats all theres time for. Send me a pm. Have done lots of stuff in washington, would like to explore oregon more.

Just moved down to vancouver, wa and am looking for a partner sunday for a day trip with a late start, probably 10am or so when i get off work. Anyone interested in an easy alpine trip or some cragging? Send me a pm.

Climbed LR yesterday, route is blowing up right now, lots of folks making use of the good weather. Will be a full-on boot track by the weekend. Deep slush or crust depending on time of day above treeline, deep snow from 8500-12500, although that will change with the warm weather and climber traffic, bare ice from 12500-14000, deep snow again the last couple hundred feet to liberty cap. Pretty big crevasses up top, including the "Schrund", on climber's right finish, 50m of AI3/AI3- with minimal crevasses over the ice cliff via climber's left finish. Several people skiing the Emmons-Winthrop over the last couple days, seems to be in good nic. No pics, im guessing one of the several parties to do the route this week will come up with a tr here or over on TAY. As an aside, if you ignore the huge, loud, many-times-daily avalanches, the Liberty and Willis Walls looked like they had more climbable, steep snow and ice on them than I've ever seen before.

Weather looks a bit drier over there, send me a pm if interested in doing some cragging 5.9-5.10 range. Maybe Outer Space or Mary Jane's Dihedral again, maybe do some exploring.

sweet, lots of folks enjoying the winds on Hood Saturday, didn't make for especially soft skiing conditions though. Looks like my earlier inquiry into my watch has been successful, hallelujah.

Somewhere between the top of the Palmer and the Reid Headwall. Pm me if you run across it.

WF of Summit pyramid of Shuksan has never had a winter conditions ascent I don't believe. Sunday was the first time I've seen a complete snow and ice line, top to bottom, on it. Anybody want to go get it in the very near future before it disappears?

Looking to climb something big and frozen this weekend, send me a pm if interested.