jj221

this message program is real concerned about my gd signature.

Post holing!

Do you ice climb? I will be in Beatenberg (10 km from Interlochen) from 12-17 to 12-27. I'm trying to find a second that doesn't involve hiring a guide. As for the skiing try http://usa.myswitzerland.com.

I bootyed one of these from a climb in New Hampshire. The party before us had broken a pick and rapped off on one of these screws. I offered to get the screw and pitch it down and the former owner just didn't care. After my experience with the p.o.s. I see why.

Has anyone been up on the Schmitar Glacier on Glacier Peak? I'm looking into venturing out to the area this October and am interested in knowing if this is worth considering. My first question would be how far has the Glacier receded, if at all? Does anyone have any experience with being up there in the autumn season? What are the conditions of the scrund? I'm not opposed to having navigate a scrund or two to get to worthwhile steep, hard-ice glacier climbing I just want to make certain the ratio of inconvenience to fun is high enough to warrant the vacation days from work. By the pictures and descriptions in the CAG this route looks like it has some real autumn potential but the photo is probably 30+ years old and what I'm dreaming of may no longer be there. Any advice or autumn ascents within the last 5 years would be appreciated.

Late night exits from Red Rocks are no problem. When I visited this spring the exit gate was replaced with those unidirectional tire spikes that are frequently found at rental car lots. I exited the loop road at 11:30 P.M. with a smooth transition from my climbing epic to my gambling epic.

a/k/a Frankenstein.

I’m fortunate enough to be heading to Europe this holiday season. My family is planning on spending Christmas abroad and I have been charged with site selection (30 years of Christmas in the Midwest finally pays off). I will not be able to make this a total climbing trip but I ought to be able to sneak a day or two in. I’m looking for some ice with fast and easy access. What is the European equivalent of Crawford Notch, NH? Time will be of the essence I will be breaking away from the family so I will not have time for a huge approach. I realize Chamonix is the alpine capital of the world and it may be in fact what I’m looking for. What I’m not looking for is a major alpine route in the dead of winter. I have to give the family some assurance that I’m not marching off into a possible epic. The ideal situation is a place with easy parking/train/trail access that has plenty of options in the WI2-WI5 realm; if there is a place that is heavy with WI3-WI4 all the better. Please advise on suggested locations- my Internet searches have not been too effective. First hand accounts preferred but not required. From the non-climbing side if there are any recommendations of inn’s, hotel’s, locations, activities, unique events or other things that the rest of the family can find enjoyable I would be interested in hearing that as well.

I have to agree with Ken4ord here. Even though they post the avi conditions Washington still has plenty of people dying. Informing the user can only go so far. There is always going to be a segment of people who think they can make it. Some of these folks will go on to achievements of greatness others will go on to stats in Washington's death tally. People are going to do what they do. I think the informed will make their decission independent of the sign- the same can be said for the uninformed.

What if your partner bails so that they can come post on cc.com?

If experienced it can be a viable way to go cross-country. I would sharpen my teeth on the local fare before scaling up to a cross-country size. I will assume that you would be bringing some items of value with you on your foray. If it is your first time the chances of you returning home with these same items of value will be very low. Often times you will find that it will be very easy to get off a train and next to impossible to get back on. Invariably it's the rail yards out in nowhere that have the highest security making it next to impossible to get back on. This situation can create the unplanned bivy that can go on for many boredom filled days. When I weigh my rail hopping experience vs. my hitch hiking experience hitch hiking is always easier (and typically faster) but the railways always seem to have a higher sense of accomplishment and adventure. Good luck.

If you can afford these boots and stand the wait (see post above mine) then your mind is probably decided. I've seen one pair in my life and they were fastened to an cocky gear rep who was falling his way up the Standard Route at Frankenstien. He seemed to like them, he spoke glowingly about them at the belays. To this day I haven't seen them in a store or on any non-connected people.

In a effort to boost my post total: Yes I'll be climbing the early season ice in Tuckerman Ravine, Mt. Washington this weekend. Conditions look great.

I fit your description. I've been around for the long side of a year and have managed to rack up 34 posts. I visit the web site fairly regularly but post rarely. I imagine low post totals might stem from not climbing in the Cascades as often as I would like... On the other hand my post totals on the Gunks site comes nowhere near what you spray kings generate. I'm always amazed at how often and how many different ways nothing can be said.

Thats N Face of Pitchoff right? I soloed alot of those lines (Weeping Winds, Arm and Hammer?) in winter of 1990, and they scared me! That is the one.