billcoe
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Posts posted by billcoe
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On 9/17/2006 at 2:24 PM, JosephH said:
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*** BEACON ROCK SAFETY NOTICE: CAR BREAK-INS, UPDATE 10-13-23***
The BRSP Staff wanted everyone to know that someone has been driving up and down Route 14 breaking into cars along the way including several recent incidents at Beacon. They advise you to be sure and not leave anything of value visible inside your your vehicles.
Even if it's not visible.... part of Kyle Silvermans rack was stolen after they punched his door lock. His gear has an orange tape identifier if you happen to see it for sale online.
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On 6/27/2002 at 7:34 AM, sketchfest said:
I guess one of the issues that piss's me off about this whole thing is that I'm not some burly crank master. I climb mostly between .9 & .10c on a consistant basis. This paticular route was one of the first routes I climbed where I felt like I had pushed my limits, not because of the grade or especially the length, but because it was protected by three old and rusty 1/4" bolts with angle hangers and the crux bolt is ready to pull out. Now these new bolts have not only changed the nature of the rock, but the style of the climb itself and that is something I do not agree with. I've never chopped, nor wanted to,(although thinking about it more and more) I just feel like these recent enhancements were not very well thought out.
Holy blast from the 20 year past ! Was looking for info on a route further down and tripped over this post. I'll confess, Jim Robinson drilled but I supplied the bolts. Jim was all but living out there back then although as I understand he quit climbing @ 15 years back, so as regular as anyone else I suppose. The SS bolts we put in are still there today, thanks for not chopping them Paul.
Man, times been flyin'....
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Didn't happen. Got notified last night that a person I'd had lunch with and hugged, got Covid. Pitched it to Ivan and he hemmed and hawed, which may have been for the best as it appears that Beacon didn't crack a high of 27 degrees today and likely had ice in places.
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Talk about the Brethern getting the band back together tomorrow, New Years Day, for a frozen wet toolless lap. Stay tuned and don't get too drunk tonight.
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Shit, great short film. The sad part to me is remembering that dude as young and strong. Didn't seem that long back but at least it partly explains why people I use to climb with are dying of old age and such.
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I've had Graham Bonnet of Rainbow "Since You've Been Gone" rolling around for a while now.
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Badass ascent, and the writing is very well done as well. Good job all around.
Quote"I don't think pointing to Marc-Andre is a very convincing argument either"
Damn, cut me right off. Was going to mention that I remember when Marc-Andre was a dumb young (was he 14 when he first posted here) hugely overenthusiastic snotnose kid showing up on this very site annoying all of the old fucks here. Then bam, world class. Seen it a couple times. No way I'm gonna discourage a young person, what the hell do I know. Seriously, good job getting out and getting it done!
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Benny and the Jets. Mostly as it's playing at this moment and Ivan would sing it over and over when we were out playing at Tower rock when we were doing that.
BENNNNYYYYY!!! BENNNNYYYYY!!! BENNNNYYYYYYYY and the jeeeeeetttts !!! DA DUM, DA DUM.
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THREAD REVIVAL!!!!!!!!!!!!! Damn, lots of super strong climbers posted up there in 2013. Rudys son Drew must be on the (now delayed) Olympic team if not injured? Hey Rudy, (RUMR) wondering what rubber your boy is climbing on? Since your post upthread yer boy has become a top climber in the US. (if winning comps is a thing https://drewruana.com/). But I know he's climbed outside so that counts, even if sponsored.
Anyway, with the virus, I figure its a good time to support the resolers who will need the work. Not that my 6 pairs of trash I rounded up and I'm about to send out will keep anyone's lights on for long but they can use the work. I did a search and wham, this old thread popped up. Stealth isn't getting out to them these days since Adidas bought 5.10. Vibram XS Grip for the win?
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Went out with Ryan O, new proud papa of a little boy, today. Bluebird weather and had the place to ourselves for a corner lap. Damp in a few spots P1 and P3 mostly, but the ramp was 100% dry and warm. Classic finish c to c nothing to write home about, maybe 1:45-1:50 or so. Ryan saw a couple does walking down the tracks (crunch crunch crunch "how did you not hear them?") Osprey, Eagle and Peregrines at work. No one saw any new bolts on Starmaster although we stared and squinted hard they did not materialize. Ryan asked me if it would be appropriate to wrap up/coil the end of the shit rope left on the route laying in the dirt and I was affirmative on that as the weight of a coil hanging reduces the swinging back and forth movement (which was happening in the wind) which will quickly core shot a line as it rubs back and forth....back and forth...back and forth, and it will also reduce the likelihood of critters nibbling the end. Blame me if offended.
DECEMBER 9TH BROTHERS!
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We came seeking truth, good Romans and soldiers, believing in jus militiae we traveled those long distances to far away lands for a few denarius, challenges and the companionship. At first, our brothers lauded our deeds and feats. They sang of our stout hearts and daring. The daring became routine, and unable to outdo each feat - the freeborn citizens became blase if such could be believed. The Patricians still cheered....but much quieter. In later years, they turned from us, as if we did not exist. But having existed on a higher plane, they wished to pull us down.
Yet still we journeyed to those far away lands. We did not do it for them before, we did not need their appropriation and cheers to yet do so. Soon will be the clash of the low gravity and the dragon, rare as the Dragons are today. In olden days they existed everywhere, now there are few, and the memory of them declines as honest citizens doubt they existed at all. Exist they did and do my brothers. If my silence comes, then know thee that the dragon yet lives. I leave you with this and with that. For the job must fall to those who can slay it. We can do nothing else, for we are what we are, no amount of apologies changes it.
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Well thanks...glad you climbed dry. Was worried a tad. Now, don't think I'm trying to mother hen you and such, but my spincter tightens up when I read out these waterfall/get a full on shower laps folks do on occasion. I did that once at another state/another location with Ujahn and it didn't seem unreasonable even when I got way off route doing a new variation on the 3rd or 4th pitch and didn't get a piece in for a long, long time: but we were roped up. Anyway, what I realized then is that you can peer right over the hill and see what is coming your way weatherwise. Every time. Noha weather has a live radar that susses out the depth of water/moisture in the air. If you know it's raining in Camas, checking in twice and simply noting the time and location differential of the incoming weather will tell you if you have time to finish a lap or if you need to bring a bar of soap to get clean in the forthcoming shower:-) No need to get wet.
https://radar.weather.gov/radar.php?rid=rtx&product=N0R&overlay=11101111&loop=no
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On 11/9/2019 at 5:19 PM, ivan said:
11/9 - day 60, laps 142-143 - not the saturday i'd settled on, but somehow it turned out alright - up at daybreak to finish the bill maher i'd passed out on halfway through the previous evening over bacon n' the all-mighty avocado toast - the plan to turn laps until near evening and then fetch my mentee - left the house under serious rain but it tempered by camas and faded away, the sky still deep gray and unpromising - the incorrigible bill coe n' company in the parking lot having completed lap 1, we headed down together to the base - kudos to those 2, as we started up simultaneously but they managed to top out before i could lap them, despite not dicking around more than a few minutes to top off on kombucha in the ride after lap 1 - sodden w/ sweat, i settled for sitting atop uprising alone n' sucking on that sweet, sweet temptation while looking around at the unholy sky - minutes later the heavens opened and the climbing was clearly over - worked out okay as i had chores homewards to tend to, and ended up watching classic movies w/ the boy-childe as the sky boomed down upon us - i guess there's always tomorrow...
Ryan and I topped out, yelped for you but not seeing, headed down. Hit the car and headed to the ramp to scope out the Elk Herd on the island. They were gone by then so we binoced the rock looking for you. Not seeing you, figured you'd topped out. Unraveled the rope on the lifebouy so it could be tossed and just like that it started raining. We were grateful for the 2 laps we got, and also the heads up from you that the rain was coming along. I'm getting a cardio workout on these laps:-) Car to Car @ 1-1/2 hours approx.
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6 hours ago, Rad said:
I feel like we are watching Groundhog Day for Beowulf, who sets out each day to slay the dragon, returns in drunken triumph each night, and in a curious and cruel twist, each morning wakes to learn that the dreaded dragon yet lives, and the epic battle must be fought all over again. The cycle must repeat until our hero finally learns that the dragon is not his true nemesis, the battle is not the real battle, and victory, it seems, is simply the act of getting out of bed each day, drawing in a lungful of clean air, and yet feeling the beating of his heart, a metronome in flesh and bone, counting the seconds to his eventual death.
Wow! A brilliant and erudite analysis Rad. I was checking in to see where the man was yesterday, Ujahn, Ryan and I had it to ourselves all day.
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Love the writing but your photos...
Look pissed off to me. Is that some dude you're climbing with? Looks like dudes body is gone....
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9 hours ago, ivan said:
9/14 - ... a Big Day - laps 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 72 (respectively referred to as the single, double, hat trick, reverse golden sombrero, reverse platinum sombrero, farmer's daughter, and El Cap laps - next will be the shelob's sugar-titties, the nirvana of nazguls, the elizabeth hurley and then the alexandra daddario -
HAHAHA !!!!! Lord thank you for the entertainment. May the Octomama of all laps soon be in your future. BTW, your hook is/was with Adam, hopefully you got it the other day.
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The rain having turned off, Ujahn and I decide to do a lap. Hit the parking lot @ 1:45pm and meet a couple finishing up who were Beacon first timers. Fella had left a back off nut on Crusin, Ujahn says: "I'll go get it for you and bring it right back."
"Nah, it's booty. "
"But I can run down and fetch it right off for you."
"Nah, we are leaving, it's yours".
So we did. Another nice couple let us pass at the traverse, we stopped at Uprising belay for beer slowing the car to car to a leisurely 1-3/4 hours and only minor knee pain. At the bottom in the parking lot, waiting for Ivan to show so I can return his non-booty dropped off Tower Rock hook we'd fished out of the talus, I send Ivan a photo of my car in the lot with his hook hanging off the rear view mirror to emphasis the point and speed him up if such is possible.
Sitting on the park bench sipping suds, Adam and Timetraverl show up looking like they mean business. I offload Ivans hook to a very gracious Adam, my temporary possession of said hook only slightly marred by being too drunk earlier and deciding to assist in laying some identity pipe for Ivan: engraved and wrote his name all over the thing. Didn't seem like such a fine idea once I sobered up to debase another mans property, however, should it be dropped again, everyone will instantly knows who's property it is.
Regardless, my charge is now Adams Albatross.
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3 points:
1st) What saved the hook was that although we had searched for that hook extensively before firing up Tower (P3 and down, not the top), was when we headed down we saw some trash. Wandering towards the shiny trash off in the distance, Adam spy's it on the ground. We rounded up all the trash we could find and your hook was collected because of that. When Adam showed up in the am, I was all flustered as he wasn't committed to a single Beacon route but was tossing out a bunch of classics and I was thinking I needed to bring gear to supplement his rack. I knew I wanted to bring it incase we bumped into each other but I walked right past your hook and it's still there. I can put your name on it but it will get back eventually. As an aside, the Pikas are starting to come out.
2nd) To the person who told me that the rap off Blownout will miss the poison oak, I beg to disagree.
3rd) A mix up this am led to us having only 9 draws for Monte Cristo Slab. A quick call to Denali Dave who lived close to on the way and he spotted us 10 more and sent us along with a cooler of super greens to boot! It was perfect. The hot weather of yesterday and today (these plus 90 degree days take it out of you) made for an early finish. We dropped them on Daves porch on the way back. As we are driving back, baked stupid by the sun, Adam notes: Doh!, we should have put a 6 pack in that empty cooler". Right he was, Dave, the beers on me man, thanks again!! Adam flys home Saturday, he's climbing with Timetraver tomorrow and I get a much needed rest day.
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Arches/Crest jewel. This is the last pitch of CJ? Ujahn and I did campsite to campsite (ND Gully descent) in 8 hours. Rode bikes over to Arches base from N. Pines.
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^^^^and like slow old people Ujahn and I finally got out there yesterday, finished cleaning it off and tossed too many bolts in it for a sweet 5.9 line. Jeff Thomas and I started cleaning off the top part of this @ 1-1/2 years ago and then he got hurt. I kept cleaning until I went to Red Rocks and hurt my knee. My knees been to shit for that long. He's still on the injured list but when I asked him he said: "just get it over with and end this endless pain before they plant ya in the dirt"...or some such. LOL. Saw Timetravelr up there in the weekday clouds and heat doing the lords work as well. Thinking a good name is Climbswell butterflakes. It's essentially the first pitch of Garden Party et al.
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G-spotters posts makes me wonder if Ondra did "RUDE BOYS" as well.
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On 3/24/2019 at 12:31 AM, JosephH said:
Could someone please explain to the not-so-anonymous person who cut the Dropzone anchor rap ropes for the sixth time that I have almost as many old ropes as Bill Coe.
Haha! Good man, we all need more ropes but nobody comes close to my crapload. But whats the story with the anchor rap ropes? Is that the rope you've left on Hollow Victories occasionally so you can do laps? Sounds like you can't leave a rope there without it getting molested. Share the story Joe. Here's mine recent rope story.
My story is that I left a rope on the West side of Beacon to clean a new line, Plaidman showed up and hung another rope on the same anchor to help do the thing. I went to Red Rocks with Adam, Amy Ujahn and Tara, and somewhere up one of those canyons tore the crap out of my knee. It almost healed enough for me to go out 3 times, but everytime whanyg! ripped it up again. Left my rope out there much too long, lack of communication with Plaid I only realized when I go out there he's pulled his rope and abandoned the thing. After a year and a half (mea culpa mea cupla sorry all won't happen again) Ujahn drags me out there for an outing and we rap in from the trail and see my static surprisingly coiled up all nice and hanging at the rap station that designates the start of Hazy Daze and those routes. Someone had left another rope at the base just on the ground, which we left there as it was.
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Badassery John! Great work you 2. I'm with Stefan, "let's get a climb in this weekend, yawn, did Mooses Tooth, went to work Monday..." LOL.
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On 11/1/2018 at 3:33 PM, JosephH said:
Maintaining Beacon requires far more than re[tro]-bolting, building unneeded platforms, and destroying beautiful little trees that didn't need cutting. It requires formally organized and coordinated loose rock cleanups at least once every five years and preferably a loose rock survey prior to every open to determine if any threats to climbers or the railroad developed over the winter which needs to be cleaned up.
You're slackin off again it appears to me Healy. (Insert joephoto here) ..and anyway, them lil trees had it coming. Not sure which ones you're referring too, but they're all guilty as sin.
...must have missed a few:-) (Hamni Meyers pic)
..And now, back to our regularly scheduled Ivanathon. Hey Ivan, thanks for the read. Sounds like they were filming a Breaking Bad redux up there at Cape Horn. To bad they couldn't have scheduled that RV fire with the Corn on the Cob Truck crash and made proper Lemons out of Lemonade. I was trying to get Ujahn to stop so I could glean some of that corn for dinner but he didn't believe that would have been legal and he also wanted to get his drink on. I made believe that it was but lowly field corn and thus not worthy and off to Skamania Lodge we rolled.
The strategy is?
in Spray
Posted
...updated due to near identical current events. Sub Gaza Strip for Lebanon