pzack
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Posts posted by pzack
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CANADA DAY
in Spray
One nation, under guard, indivisible, with liberty and ...
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CANADA DAY
in Spray
O Canada, we stand on guard for thee.
Oh. I always thought it was, "we stand on GOD for thee."
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Amatuer Tantric Sex combined with a climber's grip can have some really horrible effects.
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Shaweet!
Pics fender???
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Most of these people are very smart, otherwise they wouldn't have gotten away with so much. They probably wouldn't have too much trouble convincing the system that they are "reformed" or "cured" when in fact, they aren't.
Criminals that get caught are for the most part dumb. That's why they get caught.
How exactly is someone sentanced to life w/o parole going to get out?
What part of "breaking out of prison and going on a sorority killing spree" do you fail to understand?
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Hey Tim-
You should play in the Southern Pickets for a week.
WR of Inspiration is a fun route. Little Mac, the McMillon spires, there are a LOT of multipitch climbs under 5.7 up there...
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Found:
Ice Axe-
Paradise Parking Lot
Saturday @ 7 or 8 pm.
edit: It's not a Silver Grivel!
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Why didn't I think of that???
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Thanks All,
Climbs Suggested so far:
Outerspace
Orbit
Finger of Fate
NW corner on N. Early Winter Spire
GM Route at Index
Other suggestions for Hand Jams? Fist Jams? OW?
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Hand and fist cracks. The second pitch of Finger of Fate is very close in size to the fist crack (though a little bigger). Do orbit and outer space in a half day; the upper pitches of OS will help (avoid the temptation to use the chickheads). Additionally all the belay changes on these routes will help you get up the ridge faster (practice makes perfect...). Are you planning on simuling any of the route? One day or two? Entire ridge or upper?
Where is Finger of Fate?
Planning on just the upper ridge. I hope to do running belays over the easier terrain (low or mid 5th depending on the situations we encounter). We'll probably do the climb in 2 days, bivvying at the cut-off onto the N.Ridge.
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Thanks Chuck,
I'll give that a go.
Other suggestions???
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Hey all,
I'm thinking of climbing the Gendarme on Mt. Stuart this summer. I'm a desent face climber, but want to improve my crack climbing. What would be the best crack climbs (alpine and cragging) to do to prepare for this?
Thanks!
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Does anyone know what kind of condition Exit 38 is in? Has it dried out enough to be reasonable yet? Much Appreciated.
Do you mean from winter??? Yeah, you can climb there.
Do you mean from the rain today??? No, it's still raining.
Also, there are plenty of routes that you can do up there in light rain... it's so blocky, you don't have to worry much about your feet.
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I did teach myself to climb by reading a book. I have never taken a class.
The Mountaineers rolled out of camp at precisely 6:30 AM, not unlike Patton's 3rd army, to over run the pracice cliffs. By 7:00 the devestation was complete. Unfortunately, the Mountaineers/Boealps did not recieve the news flash that there are other climbers. They seem to think they are the only ones.
Actually, they are warning you where they will be BECAUSE they relize that they are not the only climbers. "reserved" is a poor choice of words, instead they should say that the plan to be there with a lot of peopl.
If some climbers happen to show up, of course they shouldn't be hassled if they want to jump on routes where the class has set up top ropes... and it's courteous to ask before you jump on lead where a toprope is set. (this is no different from any other interaction between climbers at the crags)
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You
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#207 disguise snow climbers as rock climbers disguised as snow climbers.
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I'd hate to have a picket pop out and plant itself in my face.
They do fly!
you can put the anchor "on belay" from above so it doesn't fly up and smack someone. "You could lose an eye!"
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Nice work Pzack, sounds like a great time. I was up on Jefferson Peak on Sunday enjoying the weather as well. How was that catwalk on Washington?
Actually, I stayed below on Washington while some folks went up (this was part of a class/fieldtrip). They said the catwalk was exposed, but easy to walk across.
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Thanks again everyone. We ended up dropping down a somewhat steep chute to get to the South side of Washington (5300') and then climbed via route 1. We found a little bit of class 4 on "A" Peak. The weather was awesome this weekend!
We rappelled down the centeral, wider gully to the left of the cornice.
Some climbers might forgo the rappel and simply downclimb.
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Maybe he was just telecommuting?
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Peeps.
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Thanks Again,
You're right - it's probably corniced on the ridge... but if not, that ridge traverse looks like a good line with lots of exposed scrambling.
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I'm heading out to do the Ellinor/Washingonton Traverse this weekend. I'm hoping to find a route that has one or two pitches of class 4 or low class 5 and isn't totally contrived. Any suggestions?
One person mentioned that you can climb "A" Peak for a little bit of class 4.
How is the traverse on to Mt. Washington if you stay high?
Thanks in advance!
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Sad...sad...another reason not to climb Everest.
Here we go again...
in Climber's Board
Posted
Just called the ranger Station.
Icicle Creek Road is closed at the SnowLake Trailhhead.
500 acres burning currently.