pzack
-
Posts
115 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by pzack
-
-
There ain't alot of jews in the PNW. Probably not too many that climb and read Cascade Climbers.
Maybe I'm the only one?
and dude, you scare the shit out of me.
-
I had not problem with the content. I don't mind folks linking to their own blog... as long as their own blog isn't firing off pop-up adds... at that point its more like spam in my opinion.
-
can this be marked as spam please?
-
I'll put the book in my car tonight. Let me know if you want to come by and get it while I'm at work (Bellevue-Eastgate area)
-
Hey Matt,
I have one. I work in Bellevue & live in Snoqualmie. You can drop by and pick it up if you want... but I need it back for a trip in September/October.
-Zack
-
The descent goes fine with one rope. I think we had a 60 meter. I don't recall if we needed the extra 10 meters or not.
-
definately orbit.
Here's a photo from AlpineDave's sight:
The pic looks down at the start of your 5th pitch. That's the big right facing dihedral. There's one old button head and a newer bolt next to it. Protection is sorta scarce and the climbing is about 5.8 until you get to where this picture was taken, then it eases and you get some crappy button heads as you make your way to the next dihedral (where you started your 6th pitch I think) the next dihedral is left facing.
Nicely done ff!
-
-
It's a trick question. There are no bad climbing movies.
-
I might have the record for the longest ascent. Did the WR in something like 37 hours. Bivied at the base of the route and then again at the top of the cascadian. Good Times.
-
does it start between two small trees, one of which you can stem off?
Yes.
-
Hey Jason, i didn't see an answer to Juan's question...did you guys do the ridge from the toe? If so, did it add anything more difficult than the upper ridge's 5.0?
thanks,
-josh
Hey Josh,
If you do the Nelson route, and then start heading up the north ridge when you first get on it(instead of dropping over the other side and doing the ice/snow climb back to the ridge), then there is one 5.6 move very soon after you get on the ridge. Other than that one move, it's pretty much 5.0 all the way to the summit.
-
The topo shows twelve pitches; I know we're off route but my pitches are bigger.
-
OMFG
vicious battle snaffle.
-
ratings and gradesare for chuffer to stroke to get cock out of your mouth and hands off the ruler either you can climb it or can not and if so just shut the fuck up weakeling pussy whipped yuppie and go back to your latte and harry potter
Chuffer?
-
This reminds me of something I encountered at Leavenworth this weekend- what is 5.8+ supposed to mean? Our theory was that it meant... 5.8.
From Another Thread:
I seem to remember reading somewhere or other (maybe here) a more realistic ordering of grades, that went something like this (based on my memory, and personal experience up to easy 11s), from easier to harder:
5.4 to 5.8
5.10a
5.9
5.8+
5.10b
5.9+
5.11a
5.10c
5.8 squeeze
5.10d
5.11b
5.10+
5.9 ow
5.12a
5.11c
5.11d
5.10 ow
5.12b
5.11+
5.12c
and so on...
up to the max: Rockies VI 5.9 A2
Other interpretations of our beloved YDS?
-
Yeah, I vaguely remember going up close to the crater before heading up the roman wall when I climbed the Easton 10yrs ago. I guess it's kind of a semantic issue - if you want to climb the Easton to the main summit, I'm pretty sure you'll go up the roman wall, but perhaps the "Easton route" technically ends on a lower summit.
If you're going to the true summit, then both routes share the same final snow slope to the summit. On the C-D route, you'll be on the left hand side of that slope while you climb to the summit. On the Easton route, you'll be on the right hand side (getting on it after passing the crater rim).
-
Thanks Fred.
-
There are a two well-bolted slab climbs next to Bathtub dome on the way to Condor Buttress.
Does anyone know who put them up, what they are named, and what they are rated? They're not in the 11worth guidebook.
-
I really like the BD Raven. I've used it on everything from Glacier Walk-ups, to AI3. It's pretty light, it has stood up to heavy use, and it's got a comfortable handle.
Its best use is in the cane position. The flat-top handle will spare your hand, so that you'll be more likely to keep a solid self-belay. It's OK in dagger position, though maybe not the best.
-
A town without dancing?
Someone call Kevin Bacon.
-
There's a climbing gym on campus that he can make use of...
but it can get a little bit cosy at times:
Also, there's usually a few days of snow, and you can cross country ski through the lentil fields.
Quasi-Wilderness in the area.
Also, there is a WSU Alpine Club. I'm not sure how you'd get ahold of them.
Also, as a student, you can rent a lot of alpine gear
Go Cougs!
-
Has anyone been up in the Entiat Range?
Is the road to the Phelps Creek TH still wide open?
Thanks!
-
Two thumbs up to Ian and Second Ascent. He helped me buy a new pair of slippers and was very, very patient. Lots of sweet looking ice gear to be had now, too.
Second Ascent is the best climbing store in the NW... When are they going to open a shop on the Eastside. Ballard is FAR FAR away.
Frostbite Long Term Effects
in Climber's Board
Posted
I had some frost nip on several finger tips in both hands back in 2004. I had cold sensitivity (got painful quickly) for a couple of seasons and some sensitivity rock climbing.
After a couple seasons, things got much better. I remember in 2007 doing some very cold treks in Vermont and remarking on how my fingers were finally 'right' again.