petitdru

What was the condition of the 'schrund / gully? Is it still passable. Would like to do route in a day and am guessing that having snow all the way to the top makes things a lot faster. Any other conditions info would be greatly appreciated.

We had the whole route to ourselves Saturday morning. Left camp at 1:30, summitting at 8:30. Bottom step is easily passed on the right. Steps head right up the center of the upper with less than 30 meters of exposed ice. On the way up, the leader used one axe and one tool but on the way down both used two tools to downclimb with running belay on the upper section. Be careful in the gully - lots of stuff coming down in this heat.

Been up there twice now but been weathered off each time - the last rock outcropping at the base of the Turtle is very comfy and well protected. If the weather is nice, you get shelter on one side of the rock and a great sunset view for dinner on the other. I preferred being halfway up the Turtle though - adequately sheltered and a fair amount higher. Biggest challenge is snow conditions on the approach. We spend most of Sat. postholing our way up the FAN and the Turtle in sloppy slush - hope/plan for well consolidated snow on the approach.

It'd be awesome if you could get some pictures - don't know how to PM - can you send pictures to petitdru@hotmail.com??

Anyone been in to the N Face of Maude in the past couple weeks? Wondering what snow conditions are like on the traverse from the Maude/Jack Col. Thanks in advance. Brian