m

anyone use the marmot alpine bivy, 1 lbs not bad, but will it handle a hard snow storm and wind @ altitude. [ 06-08-2002, 09:17 AM: Message edited by: m ]

3 experienced climbers looking for 4th for a few (to be determined) tech 6km routes in peru around june 15 or 24, for about 3 or 4 weeks. all 3 have experience in peru/bolivia and other peaks of 6k altitude. respond ASAP for a warm up climb. Mat

FYI guys, something to remember about Alaska glacier flying- it ain't automatic, it is a wilderness landing strip. People coming off of Denali, or whatever, earlier than their pick up date are always pissed when their pilot isn't available on their beckon call to pick them up immediately. Understand that these pilots have other people to fly in as scheduled, other people to fly out as scheduled. And as Paul is the only pilot by and large who will fly anywhere other than the Ruth or Kahiltna, he often has pick ups on remote glaciers and places where the weather might have prevented him from getting others out on their prearranged pick up date. Being stuck at Kahiltna Base for an extra day is not a life threatening crisis. These pilots, and Paul particularly, and professionals and they don't "leave you hanging". They are doing the best they can. But if you are out early don't expect to get immediate service. Just be thankful if you do. Also, each of the Denali air taxis have an unwritten agreement to "scratch each other's backs" and help fly out each other's climbers when possible just to keep things moving along. By the way, rumor has it that Hudson Air is not going to be in business this season.

Dberdinka assumes any naysayers here are jealous insecure climbers. I think, Dberdinka, that the "attitude" you are perceiving may have been spawned by the fact that the author of this thread has perplexingly included a hard Alaskan climb in his favorite Cascade's list- for which I can see no other motive than an outward or inward desire for everyone to know what he has done...thus the rest of the thread is shrouded in the suspicion of it being an oppotunity for people to spray their climbing resumes all over the internet. People love to tell others what they've done, isn't this so? Then there's Alex, who invites us skeptics to finish our argument with something like "and by the way, I soloed the Kangshung Face on Everest, naked and backwards, so I know what I'm talking about". Actually Alex, you make a good point in suggesting that we ought to better quantify our selections of what is classic to us. Because, in my view, everyone throwing out a simple list of climbs they like, seems like a mindless thread without any substance or useful content. And while I'm griping, I cringe when people refer to Liberty Ridge as a "snow slog". No it isn't really very technical but a whole lot of people have either epiced on it or else ended up a mangled pulpy mess at the bottom of it. For many, Lib Ridge would be a lifetime achievement. Show some respect for the route. My favorite climb in the Cascades- if you really want to know- is the North Ridge of Mt. Stuart. Enough beta abounds on this route that I need not explain why. Cheerio. Don't anyone get their panties ruffled.