Rainier_Wolfscastle

I have both, and consider the Myo 5 to be superior. The light difference between 5 & 8 LED's is not noticeable to me. The on/off/adjustment on the Myo 5 is also easier with gloves on than the Duo.

Thanks. I think I'm going to get the Enclosure Parka. The Golite for $79 is a good deal, but is heavier (although warmer I am sure) & it looks like it has a really long waist (I prefer shorter). The DAS for $150 is also a good deal, but I like darker colors as they dry faster in the sun. The only one available is Gecko green (yuck!).

The Cloudveil uses 260 gram insulation in body & the DAS uses 5.3 oz insulation in the body. If you convert the 260 to ounces, it comes out to 9.3 oz, so I must not be figuring it out correctly? I need a hooded jacket for Aconcagua in January & I like synthetic insulation, so one of these two should do the job. The WT belay jacket is pretty nice too. I have the Primaloft jacket from them & like it alot (although the cuffs are too small & don't stretch).

Can any one comment on the warmth between these two? I can't seem to make any sense of the insulation weights they list. The Cloudveil is 4 oz lighter overall, so I assume it is not as warm. Any comments?

Yeah, I've used the Androids for many seasons too, but they are not the best thing since sliced bread. Yes, you can unclip and grab the head of the tool, but that gives you one more scenario to possibly drop a tool. You may say that is unlikely, but shit happens.

BD lock down are good. New black material is thinner & slides easier than previous version. Petzl has a similar leash on there new Aztars. They look even better. BD twists are ok, but if you choose to use hands on rock instead of tool, and let the tool hang from leash/wrist, it will untwist. I don't think Androids are all the great for alpine. If you have the lower section fairly short, you can't reach the head of the tool for plunging without unclipping. If you keep the lower section longer so you can reach the head, it winds up being harder to grab the end of the clipper with your glove when you are trying to clip back in. However, for steep stuff the Androids are awesome. Just my .02

Just thought I'd pass this on for anyone who needs some inexpensive water ice poon's: http://www.sierratradingpost.com Search for Camp

Anyone used a pair of these? I was looking at them at the climbing shop. They are very light (20 oz each) & have comfy grips. I'm wondering if they are actually too light for wacking away at water ice?

No one seems to publish the exact weights, but I did compare the BCA low fat's side by side with the ascension's and they are quite a bit thinner/lighter. They also fold up smaller if you are going to stash them in your jacket while descending. Here's a link to the BCA skins if you are interested http://www.bcaccess.com/bcaproducts/lowfat_skins.php

I have found that Mohair (Angora Goat hair) tends to grip a little better and does not ice up as much. Nylon is more durable and climbs almost as well. Given the choice at same price, I'd get nylon. If you are skinning steeper grades, be sure to get "wall to wall" carpeting for your skis. It may cost a little more to get full coverage (especially if you have fat boards), but it will payoff on the steep stuff. Nothing more frustrating than sliding backwards. If you are anal about weight, checkout the yellow BCA brand skins. They are thinner and lighter than Ascension brand, but also not as durable.

Thank god for that 11 oz vest. Pack weight now 99 lbs instead of 100.

Yeah, I can't quite pull 5.13 with my sneakers on anymore. Let's just call it 5.5+

Photo's and text here: http://www.supermikeosbourne.com/Albums/GrandEastRidge8_2_03/GrandEastRidge8_3_03.htm

We wound up doing the East Ridge last saturday car to car. Started at 3am from Lupine Meadows. We had a little trouble finding the start of the ridge but otherwise it all went well. We considered the first 200 feet of the route to be low 5th class which is not mentioned in the guidebook. After that, it was pretty easy to Molar tooth (good route finding challenges here). Getting around the Molar tooth is really cool. Lots of exposure and the first good rock we found on the route. The chockstone lodged at the top of this notch is the largest I have ever seen. The slabs above the Molar tooth have a ton of loose rock. Just the movement of the rope dislodged many little rocks to those below. Helmets are a must on this route! Passing the second tower was much easier and also had cool exposure. The slabs above this section contain more loose rock and are wet from snowfield run-off above. Easy climbing, but slippery, and not much pro available. Care must be taken in this section. Snowfield above was fairly easy with ice axe. I think we stopped and belayed for about 6-7 pitches total. The rest was simul-climbing or unroped. I'll post some digi-pics soon for anyone interested.

OK. That's good to know. The book says 115-120 ft or something like that. We were leading with two half ropes last time, so it was not an issue. Have a good one. Later, Mike.

We may go the first weekend in August. We're only 3 hrs away, so we'll see what the weather looks like & decide then. We'll probably drive up after work on Friday, sleep for a few hours and then get started (for car to car trips). We usually bivy at the Lupine Meadows parking lot. There is no campsite here, but if you arrive at night, alot of people just throw out a sleeping bag and pad in the meadow. We are planning on bringing a small rack, ice axe, 35m X 8mm rope, 35m X 6mm zip cord (for Owen rap), & maybe instep crampons. Those aluminum crampons sure are nice. Don't have a pair yet. You do know that the Owen/Spalding rap needs 230 ft of rope right? Apparently there is a 60m rope rap spot further right, but it is a rope eater.

No caption required http://www.empireonline.co.uk/news/news.asp?4818

My buddy & are planning on doing this route later this month also. We had planned to do the Black Ice Coulior, but apparently it is mostly a snow climb at the moment. We are big fans of car to car missions, so I think we are going to try that method on the East Ridge also. We've had some pretty good success doing it this way on the Exum & Cathedral traverse so far, so we'll see how it goes. We are taking a small rack, 35m X 8mm rope, 35m X 6mm zip cord (tie together for rap on Owen). Approach shoes, instep crampons, & ice axe each. Maybe we will see you guys up there. Do you know when you are going to be on the route? Later, Mike.

Don't aluminum crampon points bend when you kick them into ice? I'd like to get a pair, but fear trashing them on the first ice or rock I may inadventantly encounter. How about crampons with steel front points, and the rest aluminum? I wonder if that would work?

I had one of these. Overall, it's a really nice pack. Weighs just under 5 lbs empty, yet will carry 50 lbs comfortably. They only bad thing I noticed was the mesh side pockets. They are useful, but get torn easily by branches or rocks. The only other downside is the price. This thing is expensive compared to similar performing packs made by MEC/Serratus.

I had one of these. Overall, it's a really nice pack. Weighs just under 5 lbs empty, yet will carry 50 lbs comfortably. The only bad thing I noticed was the mesh side pockets. They are useful, but get torn easily by branches or rocks. The only other downside is the price. This thing is expensive compared to similar performing packs made by MEC/Serratus.

I have an 2 door I-tent and haven't needed a vestibule so far. Although cozy, a hanging stove works really well in this tent.

Western Mountaineering Highlite and Ultralight models are available in 5'6" length. All the Feathered friends can be ordered in "short" size if you don't mind waiting for them to make it. Moonstone's regular size for ultralight bags is 5'9". I'm sure there are many others too.

Looking for partner(s) for Liberty Ridge. I live in Utah, and can't find anyone local who can go this year. We tried last year but got skunked by shit weather (prehaps why no one wants to go this year). Have plenty of mtnr'ing & ice climbing experience. Prefer to travel light & fast. If you need a second or third climber, drop me a PM. Later, Mike.

the Trango extreme is great for ice/mixed climbing. Not to bulky, plenty of ankle flexibilty, and fits just about every type of crampon. If you have the $, you may want to check out the Trango Comp also. My buddy has these and they are rediculously light. Either one will work OK for alpine, as long as it is not super cold, and you are on the move most of the time.