Lovetoclimb

You climbing these days Ryan? I climb trees all the time. Rocks? Rarely.

I thought that was a canister to pee in. Oops. My bad.

I was mistaken. The camalots are still available. Perfect condition. I'll pay shipping if you buy the pair.

Everything is sold. Thanks

#2 #3 & #4

These things are about 13 years old but haven't been used more than a few times and are in perfect shape. $30 each for the Big Bros and $40 each for the Camalots. Shipping additional. I'm posting from my phone so I can't post photos but can email on request.

After working out at Rocky Butte those days I just kept wondering why this place is just such an under visited mossfest. If the pioneers of these lines would allow others to re-clean, retro when necessary, and add some convenience anchors I feel like this place could be a pretty appealing climbing area. As far as the ignorant climber plummeting problem of easily accessed bolts, I would just call that natural selection. As someone who has put up well over 100 climbs, I know that I want people to climb my routes. If that means changing some bolt placements or adding convenience anchors so be it. I know. I just kicked the hornets nest. So be it. Let the crying begin. Boo hoo. Waaaa. What makes sense to allow the most people to get out and enjoy the area? Not what makes sense to keep the cliffs mossy, ivy covered, and abandoned until some egocentric person goes and recleans it, redpoints after getting it dialed on tr because it is too scary to lead, and then it is abandoned for another 5 years until the next cleaning/ego stoking session.

You'll really love this part. We were getting paid to do it. I'm not an old guy on an ATV with a bunch of beer. I'm a 34 year old guy who just happens to be an arborist who works periodically with the tree service that got the contract to do the invasive species removal on the cliffs that the inmate work crews or city crews can't work on. We just get it on the ground and then it isn't our problem anymore. I feel sorry for the poor bastards that have to deal with it at that point. On the route by the cross at the Grotto there was a sling tied to a chockstone way back in the crack and also some bolts at the top so I think at some point someone did do that line.

My angle is this. People are free to do what they want at Smith and shouldn't have the "Climbing Community" of ya do it Ian folks deciding what they should or shouldn't do. If you are endangering someone else or ruining someone elses experience then obviously you shouldn't do it. Those two bolts out at the northeast corner of Monkey Face if used by a competent considerate person would put no one in danger except themselves. I would bet that if the climbing community as a whole made decisions on things instead of the "ya do it climbing community" things would look a bit different at most climbing areas Smith included.

No I'm not talking about little girls buried in the woods. I'm talking about cliffs that were covered in ivy and have been uncovered. Anybody seen it? What were your thoughts? It was a fun project. The best part was getting to rappel from behind the cross on the building at the edge of the cliff at the Grotto to clean ivy off of that cliff. That has to be the most classic looking line I've seen in Oregon. Too bad it isn't open for climbing. Now the inmate work crews get the fun job of going in there and packing all of that crap out. Better than hanging out in jail I guess. Sorry no pics. Guess all you PDX crag rats will have to go stomp around in the woods getting dirty condoms stuck to your shoes and broken glass in your hands when you slip on said condoms to see what I'm talking about.

If I want to do that swing I would not hesitate to go up there and slam in new bolts. Good bolts! Ones that can't be chopped without a hacksaw or a cordless grinder! Glue-ins! The best bolts in the world! Would I take out anyone with a rope? No. Would I monopolize the monkey for a day? No. Competence and technical skill seem to be lacking at the crags these days. Just a bunch of kids with strong fingers and no idea of how to do anything they can't get off of with one rope. I swing on ropes for a living. Do I take people out with my ropes? No. If I am worried about a rope snagging on something I put it in a bag and clip it to my harness. Problem solved. Was the person swinging a jackass? Yes. Misusing climbing gear? For swinging? What is harder on a rope and biners? A bunch of little falls onto a bolt while hangdogging up a hard route or one big swing with a ton of rope out? The latter would likely be easier on the equipment because of the amount of rope out and the fact that the swing would disapate a lot of the energy. I feel bad for the people who got hurt and if I were them I would be pissed. And I probably would find out who the swinger was and sue him or her. But that said I think that if you can do something competently and not endanger others then you should be free to do so. That is the beauty of Smith and the climbing there. It is somewhere that you can go, and do thrilling things in a beautiful place with no government agency looking over your shoulder. I'm looking forward to going out to Smith and pulling all of the fixed draws that I hate so much. That is some shit worth pulling.

Gear sling is adjustable so I think it fits everyone?

I am trying to get rid of some gear. Here is a list: A5 double gear sling/chest harness $30 Rock exotica wall hauler $20 Funkness device free if you spend $20 Hammer holster free if you spend $20 Heads x 4 various sizes $5 for all Rivet hangers x 2 various sizes $5 for both #1 Angles x 2 $7 each #2 Angles x 3 $7 each #3 Angles x 1 $7 each rurps x 2 $5 each peckers x 3 $5 each bird beaks x 4 $5 each lost arrows x 6 various sizes $7 each z-nailers x 4 various sizes $5 each toucans x 2 one left and one right $7 each hammer holster x 1 $4 etriers (six step) x 2 $10 each

Journey is going to be a bit harder than Picnic Lunch Wall. More mandatory thin nailing. Enchanted hooks high on the route with bad falls possible because it is kind of slabby on the upper two pitches. But you will always be caught by fatty bolts as most everything was replaced on the second ascent. FA party was kind of dicks and removed hardware or had special bat hooks that they used and then f'd the holes to make repeat ascents harder (hence the enchanted hooks). I wasn't trying to be passive agressive. But I could see how it could come off that way. I'm just saying do PLW clean. It can be done, it isn't unsafe. There are lots of fatty bolts up there, it is steep, and the falls that could happen will likely be clean.

So if everybody knows it went free, and everybody knows it goes hammerless then why are people still nailing it and saying in the TR that it would go hammerless? Probably the same reason people take how many days to climb 500 feet? I know Smith is just a muddy craphole that nobody cares about but I think that people could do better? Perhaps?