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rock-ice

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Posts posted by rock-ice

  1. FiveTen 5x US Size 12 - $40

    -Great Rubber

    -Good Edge Still

    -Uppers very comfy and new

    IMG_1887.JPG

     

    Charlet Moser 12 Point Crampons - $40

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    La Sportiva Rock Shoes US Size 11 - $30

    -Don't know the model name

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    La Sportiva Muiras Size ~10 - $30

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    -Awesome shoes

    -Still has lotta life to give

     

    Gaz Brand Stove - $10

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  2. Hey all- I have got some good advice here over the years, so I thought I would try my luck again. I am looking to retire my current workhorse all-around rope and get a new one. I need a rope with a strong sheath (I climb on quartzite) which I can also use on ice (some sorta water resistance). I am hoping to spend less than my weekly wages. . . any recommendations are greatly appreciated.

     

    Ropes I've looked at:

    NE Equinox

    Edelweiss Element II

     

  3. 2)I'll start the nominations off with my own:

     

    http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=495658

     

    "Layton-Wolfe. September.05"

     

    From the objective, to the route, to the writing - I can't remember a better candidate for "Greatest TR Ever" than Mike and Erik's TR from their FA on the East Face of Mox Peak.

     

    4/7 Update: Changed the thread title to better reflect the main idea of this contest.

     

     

    +1 :tup:

  4. This is an interesting, and seemingly sound study, conducted by people at Strike Rescue, which I think deserves a read. Sorry if its already been posted.

     

    Some of their findings:

    -Lower failing point found in predrilled hole (re-boring), though not significantly lower.

    Re-bored.JPG

     

    -Screw strength is greatest at ~15 below horizontal.

    Screw_Angle_Strength.JPG

     

     

    - A-Threads (vertical abalakov) is stronger than horizontal v-threads (traditional abalakov). Averaged breaking point 14.4kN vs 7.5kN.

    Abalakov_Strength.JPG

     

     

    Here is a

    of their testing re-boring strength.

     

     

  5. There's a picture in Will Gadd's ice and mixed climbing book of what I think is an old-style Cobra modified for leashless climbing (I could be wrong though, I don't have the book with me and it's been a little while since I read it). You might want to email him or post on his blog asking about it.

     

    I remember seeing that as well, which is why I thought this would be so easy. . . Rather than risk ruining the fang or the spike, I think I'll just pick up a pair of used quarks. They come with the pinky rest and from what I am seeing here it is pretty easy to add a trig rest for matching. Thought?

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