Duchess

hiya tom--i think you meant to say that we weren't roped up BELOW the ledges. we were roped from shortly below the chute until muir. have you eaten yet?

i don't think that getting to muir will be a wallow fest--the snow seemed pretty consolidated yesterday. and, after this weekend, i am certain that there will be a fabulous boot path. i may be interested in joining up with guys if you are still looking for another...

are you planning to climb the ledges in two days (monday, tuesday?) or are you planning to hang out up there a little longer if the weather isn't so nice? i was up to pan point today, didn't see any fractures, so hopefully if sunday is as nice as they say, things will settle out. also, it's been extremely windy up there the past few days (esp today). cori

i only show up here when something interests me/ is relevant to my life. am i a vulture, too? at any rate, my guess (my hope) is that all four people involved learned important lessons (such as to not head up to muir in the winter in crappy weather with more crappy weather predicted...?) not everyone learns the easy way, and some people just love epics. it's too bad when it involves several dozen rescue personnel, but that is what pays some people's bills. anyhow, i agree with one thing. totally overblown. all that fuss for frostbitten fingers. oh well.

I wonder who your reliable inside sources are, "Government Watch Dog". As we all know, even the most "reliable inside sources" are often also driven by their egos, and therefore don't always give the whole and accurate truth. I don't think that ANYONE HERE has all the information or ever will... secondly, yeah the media can hinder rescue efforts, and occassionally pass on inaccurate information. Although I would like to point out that the media's coverage is usually not as inaccurate as the speculation that occurs on this website in the early stages of any rescue... the media is just a business. the media is not some non-profit organization dedicated to the virtues of empathy and understanding of the mountaineering community, nor has the media ever pretended to be. it's a profit driven , competitive business. they give the people what the people want. you don't need to attack them for being what they are, "Watch Dog." I'm sure you read the newspapers and watch the news like everyone else. i will admit that i am biased, as i grew up in a media household. finally, i agree with matt. experienced climbers forget things all the time... gloves, compasses, even ropes. no need to actively destroy these two guys reputations. I don't mean to sound like I am attacking you, your sources, or your opinions. they just sound a little... um... harsh to me.

The accident occured on the north side of eagle peak. the two men were free-climbing and scrambling to the summit on the north side. they had apparently reached the top and one fell on descent, only a few hundred feet above the paradise river. this side of eagle peak has numerous "cliffy" sections, along with steep talus and alder/devil's club slopes. the man was safely evacuated and is fine with only some broken bones.

What routes are those pictures of, 8?

i agree with allison... while i occasionally get sick of reading/hearing about topless dean potter, i never get sick of looking at him!! isn't that's why there are pictures of him and brittany griffith in every issue?

hey wrecker, fairweather posted this last winter in response to a similar question: "Olympus has rarely been climbed in winter. The route above Elk Lake crosses several VERY steep avalanche chutes that would require belayed climbing. As of 1989 it was uncertain if Olympus had EVER been climbed in winter.(with the exception of the helicopter supported researchers at the IGY station) I'm sure it is possible, but the level of hardship required goes beyond what the "average" climber is interested in. I'd love to hear if anyone here has done it or has any info about successful winter ascents. I have often wondered if a route up Tom Creek would be the way to do Olympus in winter." Last March I hiked up the Hoh, there was tons of snow and travel was impossible beyond the Olympus Guard Station (9 miles in). A climb of Olympus would have been next to impossible last winter, this winter who knows?

Repeat the question for the crowd?

A few years ago I scrambled up the Middle Chimney. I followed Beckey's guide, and I too admit that I was unable to follow his route description. For instance, I never saw the cave that Beckey describes. It's not too difficult to pick out a route, though, esp from the south-southwest. I passed a few different sets of slings. I accessed from Panhandle Gap, which is an absolutely beautiful area, and I passed within 30' of a herd of mountain goats. From talking to others that have played in the Chimneys, I hear that it is pretty moderate to access via the snow chutes on the east face, if done when there's still snow! If I am correct, White River road usually is open by the end of May. G'luck; worthy goal!

hey man, i started this week out with five stars. half hour ago, i had three. someone out there must not like me...

Congrats! Nothing beats having a climbing partner that you can crawl into the sack with after!

I was under the impression that the meeting at the mountaineers clubhouse in december was the last public meeting to be held regarding the fee increase. if you have heard otherwise, do you have information about location and time?

you're all preaching to the choir. where were you tuesday night?

I just bought some tubing at hardwick's (in the u-district) for that very purpose. f**k home depot, support the little guy!

The Cowlitz Chimneys have to be up there on the list, never minding what Beckey says...

Very steep from WR CG to Sunrise if you go straight up. One hour from White River Ranger Station (closed in winter) to the junction of Sunrise and White River CG roads. Three to four hours from the junction to Sunrise. Of course, depends on snow and fitness. This time was made in late April, when the snow was quite packed.

Biggest thrills (and a few low points) of 2002: 1. First ice lead on late-season Kautz Glacier (disrupted by the idiots that rappelled down on us, showering me with basketball-sized chunks of ice) 2. First 5.5 trad lead at Smith Rock (although my partner had a hell of a time getting cleaning one of the nuts) 3. Climbing to 13400 on the Gib Ledges in Feb (the wind that turned us back also stole my helmet, ski pole, and shovel handle on the descent) 4. Finally climbed a 5.10a slab (clean) at Owens River Gorge (the proceeded to flail pathetically on Show us Your Tits 10b jugs) 5. Birthday climb on the Central Mowich, climbing the last 1000' unprotected, as my partner dropped one of two ice screws, which was hardly a low point but a fantastic adventure!)

i spoke with a friend today who climbed the exum last week. he told me that the day after they climbed, three OTHER guys got struck by lightning as well. makes one thankful that we live in washington...

latest from the weekend...the kautz is still a go but very dicey. we belayed for 5 pitches on the chute (admittedly excessive, running belays or even none at all would have been fine for 2 or 3 of these). there were several sketchy crevasse crossings both in the chute and on the upper kautz, may be impassable soon. the upper kautz was suncupped and very soft; we took a very slow and circuitous route after i popped through into a hidden crevasse. steep ice led up to point success. crossing to the crater from point success was long and tedious (very, very suncupped). we carried over and descended the dc, although the only other party on the route descended back down the kautz. yeesh.

In addition, I am selling a Gregory Denali Pro backpack, Size M, with a S or M hipbelt. 7000 cubic inches, used only a few times and in perfect condition. Retail $460, I am asking $325.

Three expedition sized backpacks for sale. These were used for a magazine backpack gear test, have been used on one or two trips, and all are in virtually perfect condition. All fit a 18-19" torso, with small hipbelts. Madden Mountaineer (Maddens are used by Outward Bound programs). Cobalt. Size M. 6800 cubic inches. Retail $399. I am asking $225. Dana Design Astralplane. Orange. Size M. Retail $469. 7000 cubic inches. I am asking $300. Jansport Alaska II. Black, gray, and red. Size M. 7000 cubic inches. Retail $200. I am asking $100. Send me a PM or call 206-459-3732 if interested. You can definetly check the backpacks out before buying.

thanks for the words mr. radon. unfortunetly the weather precluded climbing this weekend. i'm afraid i'll have to wait until next year. (i personally prefer to NOT climb up and down on lots of loose rock). and thanks for the opinion betty, although i too disagree. nothing on rainier sucks. except for getting stuck in the middle of a cattle herd on the dc. cheers.

does anyone have some current route info for the success cleaver routes? the mountain is looking pretty melted out these days...