jordop
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Posts posted by jordop
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The look of fear in Don McPhersons's eyes in that photo in the '98 BCM says it all for me!
G-spotter said:I am interested in hearing about any other tales from or ascents of this route?
Yeah, Ty and I climbed this route no problem via the north face
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White men can't hyper spatial jump.
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I'd wager it'd be faster going up the E face - better ski too.
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I've had the same pair for over a decade and they are still fine.
Ditto. Use em year round.
If you're looking to save weight, why not go carbon fiber? I've got a pair of BD carbon fibers I've had now for about 7-8 years.If you're ever in some bad yard sale ski crash, or somehow get entangled with your poles, carbon fibre can break and impale; my experience is that aluminum is more likely to simply fold over.
A good friend is still picking carbon fibre pieces out of her stomach after breaking a pole in a boulderfield and jabbing herself about 10 years ago . . . even though that's a pretty extreme scenario, isn't this the reason carbon poles are banned from ski racing or something?
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If you're completely popping out, it sounds like your DINs are too low . . . is it not that simple?
lemme know how to change the DIN on the toe
To reiterate: If I weigh say 150lbs, both heel DINs are at 4, and I hit some raunchy ice and my toe pops, my boot is going to release from the heel.
If my DINs are both at 12, with said weight and said stanky ice, my toe will release, but my heel will not, non? Have you never experienced the sensation of feeling the toe disengage but then promptly re-engaging when it was reweighted properly?
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If you're completely popping out, it sounds like your DINs are too low . . . is it not that simple? I've had the experience your describe many times. I have found a few situations that Dynafits simply do not like, one is turning hard on ice and when the condish are hard I frequently crank the DIN. I can still feel the toes release a bit when things get rodeo, but because the heel DIN is higher, the whole boot won't release and typically the boot will re-engage when you reweight it properly. It's one of the few drawbacks of Dynafits, but not enough to make me want to do extended tours on a beef monster like the Naxos.
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How many pitches you reckon the south face is? Ever hear of any repeats?
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Bet the senior management at W/B and Fortress shat their pants thinking about what could have happened there. Some very near misses this year . . .
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Another thing to ponder is the extreme difficulty in arresting a falling climber/skier while on skis, with maybe only a Whippet. So, do you want one person in the crevasse, or the whole rope team?
On a two person rope team that is a valid thing to consider, but the more people on a team the harder it is for one person falling in a slot to pull the entire team in.
In one of the crevasse falls I have been company to, we were skiing UP the Athabasca Gl on a four person rope team. The first guy busted through a thin bridge and went into full-on free fall. Because there were three guys behind, and below, him, we didn't have too hard of a time holding him/transfering the load, etc.
Reverse that though, and take away two guys:
Two guys on a rope skiing downhill and the leader breaks on through to the other side . . . Different story, yes.
Never skied with a Whippet . . . the likelihood of impaling myself always seems to outweigh the possibilitiy of needing it to self arrest . . .
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Probably getting ready to play The Dude, Walter, and Donny in the semis . . .
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mazegirl said:jordop, let's air your voice!
Free Tibet!
Free Basque!
Free Catalonie!
Free Québec!
Free Corsia!
Free Brittany!
Free Scotland!
Free Walse!
Free Abkhazia!
Free South Ossetia!
Free Pridnestrovie!
Free Serb-dominated Northern Part of Kosovo!
........
Scotland and Wales now have their own Parliament, thank you very much.
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The history of Tibet’s belonging to China has been over 700 years and the USA acknowledged that like the previous example shows. Then why do most
recent western people got an impression that China recently took over Tibet in the 1950's? When did the "Free Tibet" Champaign started and how? One major impact was made by USA CIA. The effort to separate Tibet from China was part of the Cold War. And you can read the following disclosed USA government history files about their actions here: When the media make you
believe Tibet was recently took over by Chinese, they would not tell you this history and the things CIA did during the Cold war.
You should probably refresh your understanding of 20th Century European history if you are preplexed as to why so many people in North America support the right of a group of people to have self-governance and not be subject to the imposed rule of a larger entity that claims historical "ownership". Self-determination (again, please do some research here) is a notion very fundamental to liberal democracies.
The nationalistic sentiment of China having historical claim over Tibet is basically the same rationale Hitler used to justify his control of Europe.
This is why no one here can swallow that line of bullshit.
Once again, liberal democracies (you live in one) accept the ability of a cultural group to seek their own system of self-rule. This is called the right to free association.
Before you express your dismay over people's reactions here, you should probably do some research about the politics and culture of the Western societies you live amongst.
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I love Canada and I'm proud that I'm a Canadian too.
So I take it that you likely therefore agree with our liberal democratic idea of self-determination whereby a cultural group has the ability to achieve self-governance? Please comment.
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I meant the question genuinely- how do experienced ski mountaineers decide when to rope up?
Certain situations are good indicators: early season when only a skiff of snow covers slots, or, in this case, in the first few days of spring thaw as the bridges sag. Also, firn lines, if you happen to be so silly as to ski past them on to bare ice, are dragon's dens.
How much protection against punching through a snow bridge do skis provide?It depends, obviously, on a number of factors. Skiing with the grain of crevasses is always a stool loosener for me.
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On my first trip to SLC we arrived just as the Mickie D's was closing and were handed all the unsold food in four huge bags. Helps to look really forlorn I guess
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Rebob from ttips:
Notice for tourers returning from Spearhead or Slackcountry. Sunset Blvd. is fully plowed and therefore not an option. Further, the entire frontside road is plowed to Rendezvous, which takes this option out as well. Horrendous line-up at Excalibur as well.Also, if you're doing the Spearhead, two main options for exit are either Singing Pass Trail (still some plowing at bottom of Olympic Run) or Peak to Creek from Whistler Peak. The Whistler Northside Road has been fully plowed to Rendezvous.
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Trick question. The real answer is that you bootpacked right up the skin track on Seymour and now it's a firggin minefield and I'm gonna break my leg when I try to ski up it, right?
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Good granite within a small area in both the upper Tellot and Cataract glaciers. The Isolation peaks in the photos above have fewer climbs than the upper Tellot - see Don's guide.
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can't remember the name but the line jordan peters, steve h and I did on I 3 or somethin in the Wad range was f'n spectacular and moderate at 5.10 contrivometered... hopefully jordan or steve will chime in and post a few pics sometime or more specifics as the the southern cali sun and rock has dulled my memory.
Sunshine, Lollipops and Rainbows:
Twas very fun, WADDn't it?
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Was up there Thurs pm . . . 2 cms fluff on top of crust . . . it WAS ok, it WILL be shite
i.e. past condish fly out the window when the fl goes to 2200m and if you hit it in 5hrs it will be fine, but by 5pm and if there are no clouds, you might want some squishy syrup. Sorry. -
Very cool - too bad it didn't turn out but at least you spent some good time in a cool area.
and a slide came of close to where we had to go up.. . . Yeah, they'll do that . . . (Homer to Milhouse after Milhouse complains about the tar fumes while tarring the Simpsons' roof
)Cabin looks to be in good shape?
[TR] Slesse Mountain - Northeast Butress Attempt 7/18/2008
in British Columbia/Canada
Posted · Edited by jordop
Marc,
You'll have to pardon my armchair quaterbacking here, but I don't see any reference in your TR to PITONS. Maybe you had 'em, but if not I highly suggest that you never leave home without 2-3 KBs in the ol rucksack, even on traderoutes.Glad you escaped the clutches of the Silesia Fang with only your rack lost.