CodyICE

I called Northern Lights and they had heard a few wet reports, so pretty much everybody talked me out of going.

I was thinking about driving to Hyalite for the weekend and climbing in the G1 and Dribbles area. I went to montanaice.com and they don't have a lot of info about conditions in the canyon, or what the road might be like. How far is it from the dam to the parking lot? How far could a front wheel drive car drive this weekend. Should I just stay home and enjoy the rain? thanks for the info Cody

I drove to the trail head on 2/10. There was only a bit of snow at the end. Any car could drive through it.

The last pitch wasn't fully formed. It was 90 degress with no resting places and at least 30 meters high. The Ice was soft so placing gear would have been quite tough. Grades can be different in the early season.

12/13 Went to Lake Louise Falls. Climbed first two pitches of 3 - 3+. Top pitch was formed but possible 5+ - 6 wasn't into climbing something like that on first climb of the year, but we saw two girls climb it. Ice was a bit wet but it's cold enough now it should be fat. 12/14 Drove to Mount Rundle and climbed The Professor falls. Had to hike around first two pitches because it was a bit wet. The last pitch of 5+ was too wet to climb also. The temp was just above freezing, but it's a bit colder now it should be in good shape. We were able to catch a ride out of the park with a couple guys that had just finished the Terminator, a 150m 6+. 12/15 Went to the Weeping wall of Icefields Parkway. The wall was very wet with lots of Ice fall. Started to get stormy so we bailed after the first two pitches on the right side of the wall. The whole wall needs a week or two of coldness to form. 12/16 Got an early start on Polar Circus, just south of weeping wall. The bottom 7 pitches are in great shape. Ran out of day light at the bottom of the top pitches. They looked ausome. The pencil was a long way from being formed. 12/17 Hiked up to Murchisom Falls. Made the top at 3 and made three nice rapells to the bottom just at darkfall. The temp in the canyon was -8C. The Ice was in pretty good shape. There was a great belay cave right before a 25 meter pitch of WI5. The rest was all WI4 - WI4+. An extremely sweet climb. I'm going to Cody WY from the 26-6 when I get back I will post info on it. I took tons of pictures so I will post them when I get back also. -Cody

I played on diller glacier below middle sister. Ice wasn't bad but the approach takes hours.

Where is Pete's Illumination?

Has anyone ever climbed the ice flows to the right of the main ski run at Ski bowl on? Does it have a name? I climbed it on saturday and it wasn't two bad. The Ice was rotten until the top half. Once you got half way up the Ice was nice enough to set screws. If the weather stays cold up there it could get even better. It would be best to climb it early in the morning. It started to get wet in the afternoon. The approach was waist deep powder. Skis or snow shoes would be recomended. There is a map at http://www.skibowl.com/winpage.htm Cody

Is there really ICe next to PDX. If there is I'm down either day. Cody

I bought all my Ice gear from Barrabes.com The gear came to my door in four days. I saved a ton of money even with the shipping costs. If you spend over a certian ammount there is a tariff tax that is basicly nothing that you have to pay. The company that ships the stuff will send you the bill for it. I spent about 600$ and my tariff was $16.95 I recommend barrabes to everyone. Cody

My girlfriend and I climbed chairlift falls at alpental saturday, March 9. They have formed even more since the last report. The batteries in the camera were dead so I have no pictures. We also climbed up to Hubba Hubba. It was practically gone. The hike up kind of sucked. Cody

The weather says its cold in alpental. Anyone think the ice will be any one good around that area this weekend? Cody

I never knew returning gear was such a conroversial subject.

Alex, In your Guide book Draft it says the pass is closed until april or may. Is It open now? Cody

Has anyone seen or heard of any conditions in the Frazer Valley between Chilliwack and Hope. Thanks Cody