I like the second Question.......
This is from the same Moving over rock page.....
Winter Anchoring Techniques
Creating winter anchors is different. How do you grab onto a pile of snow or a column of ice and get a bombproof hold? Get nuts into an iced-up crack? And do any of it with your numb fingers out of their gloves? Yet those icy summits beckon...
Gathering at Kirkwood, we will get hands-on with these problems. Place a deadman and a picket in snow. Pound pitons into those icy cracks. Look at the optimum placement of an ice screw, then tie two or three together into a strong anchor on vertical ice. And look at a few more tricks, but not before we pull out the tools and climb those lovely smears and columns of ice hidden off on the shady side of a granite dome, half a mile ski from the road. Evenings we'll retreat to a warm fireside and rehash what we've learned.