Norman_Clyde
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Posts posted by Norman_Clyde
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The Raisin lady came through for us. We left her there for future parties. I was beginning to take her down on the general "leave no trace" principle, when Jim pointed out that leaving a trace in this spot is just what is needed. To call her "litter" is disrespectful and downright insulting. She is the one who points the way!
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In the Pickets there was a small display both Saturday and Sunday nights. One wavy white streak undulating back and forth for an hour or so. I saw quite a few satellites as well.
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Count me in.
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I am told there is a historical piece of graffiti on a rock at the saddle. Apparently it's a signature of one of the Denny family, not Arthur himself but his son. Did you see anything?
Regarding the approach: there is a trail up Gold Creek to Joe Lake which is shorter, though it is pretty rudimentary in places. I went up this way a couple of summers ago, ran short of time and didn't make the saddle, didn't want to retrace my steps down Gold Creek so I took the PCT back instead: ran out of water and was half dead in the August heat by the time I got to the road. I had to beg the guy at the Chevron for a cup of water before dragging myself the 5 miles from the pass back to my car. Not recommended.
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I am 41 for 11 more days.
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Way cool. No pickets or flukes? Did you go bare on the steep snow traverse? I don't see any rope in the photo.
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Reviewing my Gazeteer, I am surprised to see that once you cross over Hemlock Pass at the head of Denny Creek, before reaching Melakwa Lake, you are in the Middle Fork Snoqualmie watershed. If this hiker lost his bearings in that area and simply walked downhill, he'd end up in the wrong valley.
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I read one book, part of which dealt with tiger attacks in India, which said that attacks declined dramatically when the people who had to walk through tiger territory began putting masks on the back of their heads. As ridiculous as this sounds, I bet it would be one of the most effective means of reducing attack risk from behind-- on the unaware, at least.
I myself sometimes like to run through the woods, though I sometimes wonder if this is overly foolish, since there is no way I can keep the same attentiveness to my surroundings while running.
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I plan to do this loop sometime in July, part of preparing for a Wonderland circuit. Don't have too many weekends but I'm free on the 13th. Anyone wanting to join, send a PM.
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I am loath to potentially reveal my ignorance as a person of the medical profession, but I have never heard of a pilon fracture. Also, I can't find it in two different orthopedics textbooks. Does it have another name?
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If you mean Cathedral Peak in Tuolumne, the descent is very obvious, either a 4th class chimney or single rope rappel on the west side of the summit block, to reach 3rd class slabs which descend to the west and northwest.
Oops, I somehow didn't notice that this is posted under North Cascades. Never mind.
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Cool. How much longer would you estimate this route will be in?
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As of yesterday, the NEB was dry. Snow on approach is slushy, but firm enough to ascend in running shoes. Standing glissade with poles was difficult but fun. I intended to go to the top of the basin, but stopped below the chimneys, due to concern about wet slides on the steeper portion.
On the way back I passed one guy on the trail, packing full mountaineering gear, who said he was headed up to Chair. I didn't ask what route, etc. Was this anybody I know by avatar, if not by face?
This is all the TR I will be able to manage until late June, unless I can fit in a hike in the Tetons on the family dinosaur trip next week.
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Why we die
in Spray
having just spent the day working in the ER at Harborview where i saw almost every nature of injury including an 18 year old girl who was killed in a car accident, and an 80 year old with a ruptured blood vessel in his brain, climbing does not seem all that more dangerous than any other part of living.I worked the night shift in the ER at Enumclaw, not too many miles from Liberty Ridge, both of the nights Peter Cooley and his partner were stranded on the mountain. I said a few prayers for them both, and anticipated being preoccupied with their fate and condition through the nights, but instead... as various individuals came into the ER in various states of crisis, I ended up reflecting on the fact that every day and night, all around us, people are suffering and dying. Sometimes their actions play a part, usually because they eat and drink and smoke too much, sometimes because they drive drunk or pick a fight or some such. Often enough they did nothing to bring it on. The last bad car wreck I dealt with, one driver fainted behind the wheel and crossed the line, causing a high speed head-on. No one was killed, but the most serious injury was in the other driver, who was minding her own business but happened to be in the way.
This does not make me conclude that Liberty Ridge is therefore safer than Highway 104. I do a lot of driving, which no doubt puts me at risk, but climbing is more dangerous hour for hour than driving. Lately I've been re-evaluating how much risk is too much in my own case, whether the riskiest ventures are the most rewarding, and concluding that I'll have about as much fun, but expose myself to less risk, if I'm selective about routes and conditions, maybe avoiding some altogether. But I couldn't just stop climbing, and expect my life to have the same meaning.
After one close call a few years ago, I spent the winter mulling things over, and decided that I will continue to assume a degree of risk in my pursuits. It just seemed wrong, and self-deceiving, to imagine that I could seek to eliminate all potential for bad happenings, and still live my life as it is meant to be lived.
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I hiked Sourdough yesterday. Got almost to the top, but turned around after my boots started repeatedly filling with snow. Less rain than expected. Caught a few views across the valley.
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According to James Kaler's "The Ever Changing Sky":
"Horizon dip [this is the actual term], measured in minutes of arc, is equal to 1.811 times the square root of the elevation in meters or, by coincidence, very nearly equal to the square root of elevation in feet."
Translating minutes of arc into seconds of actual time is very complicated, as it depends on the latitude of the observer and the current declination of the sun. One degree of movement, 60 minutes of arc, takes 4 minutes, but then you have to factor in the angle at which the sun is dipping below the horizon.
But altitude does make a difference. To quote the same book: "The effect of horizon dip can be quite significant and noticeable. Even for a 2-meter tall person at the shore, the dip is over 2' [2 minutes of arc] and the delay in a vertical sunset (zero degrees latitude) is 10 seconds. At an elevation of 800 meters, the dip increases to 51 [minutes of arc]."
In other words, if you happen to be on the equator, 1024 feet of elevation gives you 32 minutes of arc, or just over 2 extra minutes of visible sun (at each end of the day).
Dru, it's still only at the equator, but do I get runner-up?
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The Times article today suggests they were roped together without a belay, on steep mixed terrain. They may have forgotten to mention a belay, but it does not sound that way.
This event has shaken my spouse up more than myself, mainly because I fit the victim's demographic very closely. She even had me call our life insurance to see if we're covered for such a tragedy (which we are; our company only requires a rider for mountaineering outside the continental USA, interestingly enough).
Like many of you, I am wondering if there is some way I can respond productively to this event, one that may ease the pain of those left behind. I'm still doing my best to sort things out emotionally.
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The sound of a forest: respiration. Rural poverty, the drip of water, angry loggers, alcoholism, guns, stumps, the ghosts of Indians dead, the smell of wood smoke, rot and rain.
Raymond Carver never said it better.
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Back to the top for another round...
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If any of you have inclinations toward the alpine, keep me on your list. My schedule varies, but starting in June I'll have free weekdays.
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Terry McClain says that the mange is due to a parasitic infestation. Some sort of snail parasite has infested the grass in this region, the deer ingest it when eating the grass, they get the parasitic infection, they lose their hair. It is not actually a primary skin problem, but a systemic illness. That's all I know. The MRNP rangers, or most any ranger in the state, can probably tell you a lot more. Or send a pm to Terry.
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PP, you probably give me too much credit, because I did miss your steaksauce to Arab scholarship, and I kind of changed tone in mid-post anyway. My main point is that no civilization is immune to decline, including our own.
Re: which civilization came up with what: according to a biography I'm currently reading, Arabic numerals are actually Indian in origin, along with the concept of the zero and of place value (tens, hundreds, etc.).
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This is my idea:
Rainier via the quiet side. First day, up the W. Side road to St. Andrews Park or Tokaloo Spire. Second day, to high camp at upper S. Andrews Rock, or the base of Sunset Ridge, depending on destination. Third day, summit and a long day out. Ski descent preferred.
An ambitious team could consider a long first day to high camp, allowing an extra day should the weather not cooperate. Route options abound from this approach: Tahoma Glacier, Sunset Ridge, routes on the Mowich Face, Sunset Ampitheater Headwall Couloir.
I am free from early AM on May 22 until May 28. I can take any 3 day period within those 7 days. Most of this is weekdays, unfortunately for all of you working Monday thru Friday.
This trip is on the top of my list. If no one wants to join me, I'll have to settle for a few lesser Cascade and Olympic climbs instead.
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PP, before you fancy European culture superior to Middle Eastern culture, remind yourself that history gives examples of enlightened cultures which experienced subsequent decline into collective ignorance and intellectual squalor. You might have heard of the Dark Ages of Europe? While the masses wallowed in superstition, Islamic culture was busy with such minor achievements as mathematics and naming the stars. But don't worry, we Westerners are so damn smart-- face it, we're always right, we're NEVER wrong-- that we will never suffer any decline into ignorance. No way. I'm sure you will agree that Americans are MORE literate today than 50 years ago. And of course, no American believes anything unless it's logical and backed up by hard evidence. Must be the benign influence of television.
Mountain medicine
in Climber's Board
Posted
Brownie Schoene here in Seattle at Harborview. Howard Donner in Telluride.