All the popular moderate stuff like shirley, jap gardens, etc, get all chalked up this time of year after a long dry spell like this. Go do Swim, technicians of the sacred, bobcat cringe, clay.
Guess all I'm saying is get away from the lower wall and the country, and you might get the advanture you're looking for. If you want to climb the lower wall at the end of the summer, you're going to have to deal with a lot of top rope tough guys hanging from their rope and tick tick tick. It's lame, but that's just a fact of life.