klotzy

I recognize this climb but can't place it? Could you tell me what it is? Thanks

They have been saying that about the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge and yet a bill has passed Senate that would allow drilling and even though the House has removed ANWR drilling from it's budget bill it could still be included in the final version once negotiations begin. ANWR Drilling

Check your PMs

Gordon Sorry but I have to be at work on Sunday by 4pm so I won't be able to make the climb on Baker. Mike

I have off every Tues, Weds, Thurs and split my time between Seattle (Fri-Mon) & Spokane (Tues-Thurs) would be willing to meet in Leavenworth or Vantage. Climbing partner moved away lead 5.8 Trad willing to follow most anything. PM me or email me at mjk(at)riseup.net Mike

I hadn't thought of Shuksan, that could be a perfect choice. I also considered Queen Sabe Glacier especially with the little scramble at the end but where are you considering this practice area. Is it on the route? You mentioned an hour away are you thinking over on the Boston Glacier? Thanks for your suggestions.

My only reason for ruling out Baker is that it just might be a bit to big for a first time trip. He is my step son and while we have climbed many times together he has never carried a pack for more than a day and I don't want to overload him with such a physical climb right out of the gate.

I am looking for suggestions on a place to take my 14 year old son who has experience climbing but has never been on a mountain. I am looking for someplace where I can teach him ice axe arrest, crevasse rescue, snow anchors, etc... The problem is that I would like to spend a few days working on that and then summit which is why I have ruled out Baker or Rainer. I have thought about Mt. Daniel, Sahale, or perhaps the Stuart Range but would very much like to here what you have to say. A small technical rock climb is great but would like to have the option to bail at any point. Suggestions of great base camps with various options would be much appreciated. Thanks again Mike

I will be taking a Ferry over from Italy to Dubrovnik and then plan on driving the coast up from there then over to Hungery. How were the roads along the coast? Did you have any trouble. Will be camping as much as possible. Thanks again for the links and all the great beta. Mike Klotz

Thanks for the advice. I picked up a map already and am aware of the possible land mine concerns. I have to ask how did you end up there during the Civil War? Must have been a crazy experience. Thanks again for the info. Mike

I will be travelling in Croatia for about a month this June has anyone been there? Can anyone give me any advice about guide books they have used? Any info regarding Croatia regardless of climbing would be appreciated but am very interested any info regarding climbing in Eastern Europe. Thanks for any help. Mike

Stuck in Spokane this week but next week and beyond is wide open.

I have off Tues, Weds & Thursdays and work nights Fri-Mon (in Seattle by 3pm). All my old partners are 9-5ers it would be great if a weekly thing could be set up. Have vehicle, rack, rope and deep need to climb willing to be a belay slave if I can't follow. Lead 5.8 trad, 5.10 sport. Also drive back and forth between Seattle and Spokane so Vantage or Leavenworth could work as well.

Joseph, Out of curiousity I checked this sting to see what people thought regarding my long winded opinion. I agree with you regarding the "access at all cost" statement and I can only say that is not my intention. I would not expect to allow such practices in order to keep the crag open. What I was most trying to get across is when pressed for a stance the AF simply listed a bunch of standards that they adhere to without making specific references to Dishman. What has been going on there is wrong and has never been acceptable practice for the majority of the climbing community. I was hoping that AF would make a clear statement saying as much in an effort to bring some leadership to hear. I do agree that selling your soul by allowing such practices, in exchange for access would be wrong. Thank you for your well thought out post. cheers, mike

As someone who has quietly read most of the posts regarding Dishman both here as well as www.InlandNWRock.com I offer a modest comment. In all honesty I have never climbed at Dishman though I am relocating to the area so I hope to one day, so my concern is simply as a climber. In regards to the clean-up on Sept 26th I offer this: -Energy, effort and results are commendable. -The discussion and negotiations leading up to the clean-up were poor (based on posts no first hand knowledge) -How the clean-up was announced and the tally listed was very aggressive bordering on taunting. Perhaps leading to the quick and hostile response. -The initial bolting practices (holds and bolts by cracks), chipping, graffiti, etc... as well as the subsequent rebolting were wrong but the latter was challenged. Andy & MattP I have always respected the work the AF has done and thank you for your vigilance. As to the WCC I have little knowledge but would be interested in learning more. Regardless anyone who offers up one's time is to be commended. I agree that people need to step aside; it seems that even the both of you have some personal involvement. That is why I encourage you to advise the AF to step in to help address the concerns of the landowners as well as mediate with the climbers involved on all sides. Perhaps with the leadership of the AF and the cooperation of the WCC, Area Climbers and perhaps the Spokane Mountaineers a Spokane Climber Advisory Board (SCAB) could be created? The cost of such a board could be funded by holding a fund raiser with excess proceeds going to make Land Owner approved improvements i.e. Gate or Barrier. Of course the creation of such a Board would require the cooperation of all parties involved as well as a temporary ban on all route development/improvement. This would include the obvious bolting, chipping impacts as well as the cleaning of trad lines (established or FA) or removal of any more bolts/holds etc... As for evaluating routes this would be a job for the Board. To the AF Enough could be said about AF to fill pages of posts so I can only thank you all for your work and shamefully confess that even though I am aware of the importance of your work I have never taken the time to become a member. I hope to rectify that someday. I understand the importance of trying to work with all involved and maintain some measure of impartiality but I suggest that a formal statement regarding Dishman specifically is important for all parties concerned. The benefits of a statement from AF directed at Dishman rather than simply listing a set of standards put forth by AF is that everyone involved would know exactly what your organization wanted the end result to be. I assume that you want the people who are involved with the bolting, chipping, etc... to repair or at the very least accept that such practices are inappropriate if for no other reason then the land owner says no. You also want to encourage future climbers involved with a similar conflict to seek dialogue before action. I understand this takes time and I do not presume to tell your organization that closing crags is easy- reopening takes time. Supporting a closing would be the last resort only if necessary to maintain a relationship with the land owner. I feel that regardless of where anyone stands we are all climbers and would prefer to climb rather than not climb. It is clear that the land owner does not want this to continue. I am not suggesting a closure just some oversight and arbitration. The results at Dishman could affect all climbers, especially those dealing with access issues. Again I do not need to be reminding AF that people do talk and other land owners must look unfavorably at what is going on at Dishman. To finish I hope the AF takes this into consideration to help resolve the conflicts. Most climbers, my self included do not have the practice or information to resolve this without the experience of an organization like the Access Fund. If you do decided to get more actively involved post a call for help from area climbers I hope that I can apply the commitment to assist. Sincerely Mike Klotz