Terminal_Gravity
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Posts posted by Terminal_Gravity
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Messner used to support him and thinks he did it but has retracted his support.
There are also discussions in "Kiss or Kill" and mentions in "Over the Edge"
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There is plenty of ice here. some easy to get to & some not. Some fat and solid; and some as bit more tenous. WI1+ to WI6 maybe. I've been ice climbing 1 or 2 times a week for the past month but I can't garuntee the weather. We occasionally get a few days of really warm winds that screw every thing up. Right now I would say it is a 7 on a scale of 1-10 for Wallwa Ice.
I have never posted a photo & don't really know how but I do have a few marginal one's I could post if somebody really cares.
At most I could climb 1 day this weekend, so if a couple people meet out here I could point you in the right direction and maybe could rope up on a climb or two. but you can't count on me for a partner all weekend long.
....and this is about all the time I have to write about it. If you PM me include your phone# or I may not respond...sorry I'm just pretty busy today.
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Sketch, are you really asking for digitals of Jareds feet???
Hey JJ don't post any photos of your feet or this thread will be kicked to spray.
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Simple....come out & climb some ( a lot) more ice with me.
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Thank you, all, for the recomendations. For what it's worth I plan on useing Silveretta 500's. Yes randonee...I can't tele.
Now I get to start shopping. I hate shopping.
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No trees ( for miles & miles ) Long is okay; but I will have to throw them on my pack for a few steep or rocky steps.
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Dammit, this was supposed to be in the gear critic. Can one of you moderators help me out?
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stupid germans with their passat diesels! Get a real american-blooded steed like an f-350. That's what that says backwards.
That fine piece of german engineering gets 46mpg in the city.
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What do you recomend for the no-compromise best ski's for climbing in deep powder. They should be very light and have fairly wide waists, I assume.
Just about anything will get me back down but I need something that is really good at going up, a long way, in deep snow, with a big pack, at altitude. Thanks in advance.
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nice, Rob. If you read it backwards it says PDX cops suck the hind tit.
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After almost two years of field trials, I would like to retract my earlier recomendation. The problems with the petzl still exist but there are two problems with the Princtontec LED that I think make it totally unsuitable for mountaineering.
The battery contacts are two flimsy. A drop of only 2 feet on the ground will cause the contacts to deform and the light will fail.
Also, the case plastic is inferior and embrittles at colder temps.
I've gone through two of these lights and will not buy another. When I buy another sub-compact LED headlight it will be a BD
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My favorite soft shell fabric is Patagonia. They do not contain lycra; which is water absorbant.
And to confirm Mary Lou's post. Wind stopper is a joke if your working hard it is barely breathable...good lounge wear though.
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Drove through the Gorge and saw a few smears but knew it hadn't been cold enough to form climbable ice there.
Wrong...I-84 MP121
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"Fuck 'em; they're all posers anyway"
I've never climbed it; but it's my favorite name of a bolivian climb
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Okay, since we're all talking about it.
The west side of the Matterhorn is indeed a face. In fact it is the largest rock face in Oregon. Unfortunately, even though there is plenty of granite out here, it is limestone. The face is roughly 1700' high after a fairly long 4th scramble to the base. It is similar to a 1/2 sized mirror image of El Cap...The overhanging side is on the left and it has a prominate nose in the middle.
The central part of the face has been climed only twice by two different routes. One on each side of the nose. Yes, it was in the late 70's and the "doods" name is Dave Jensen. He still lives in the area, is a brilliant photographer but does not climb anymore...blown knees. If you look at old Sierra climbing guides, his name shows up on FA lists.
I have on sight free soloed a route (5.4) far right of the main face, in part to get a close up of the nose. The nose has not been climbed. It is arguably the most desirable FA in Oregon.
The two routes Dave did involved loose rock and he rated them 5.8 A4 on the left and 5.9 A3 on the right. I expect that Dave rates them very conservatively...ie they are harder than the rating. Both routes involved a night on the wall...duh. Another concern is tourist hikers, trundling from the top. Dave said that on one route he almost was taken out by idiots trundlers above. Both of his routes are funnels at the top.
I think I have figured out a line up the nose, I expect it to involve long Hook sections and 5.10/11 face moves. If I see any of you out here putting up a bolt ladder, I will dump rocks on you from above ( really ). But if somebody wants to give it a try with honest style, I might be of some use.
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scratchandsniff said:
I've done the NF of both Sac and the Matterhorn (not the Swiss one!!). There's lots of great little climbs in the area. Pitch a tent in almost any valley. Sometimes in early spring you're kicking crampons into hard snow and pro'ing with nuts on hard granite right next to you. It doesn't get better than that. I would be real suprised if almost every steep face in almost every Eagle cap drainage wasn't climbed by at least the early 80's. I don't think I FA'ed anything and was over there climbing all kinds of stuff in the Mid-70s. Folks I climbed with had been doing lots of these routes a long time before that.
S & Sniff, I agree with you on the un-likly hood of there being very many FA's available on the obvious lines. But who care's anyway...I just climb.
One question; what do you mean by the North face of the Matterhorn? There really is no North side to the peak, it is just a ridge that continues on over to Sac.
Do you still climb here? Do I know you? - steve
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This is certainly an interesting topic. Especially when you factor High altittude brain degridation into it. Messner has made many statements on the topic of honesty in mountaineering. He supported Tomo Cesan's Lohtse claim and then recently retracted his support.
One thing I have to call bullshit on is the press (and some of the cc.com posters) claim that Messner's traverse of NP was pivotal in his career. He was so badass, that he would have been at the top of the high altitude game anyway
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I love the photo. Way to go Ivan & Jen.... Ivan, I think you should stay home & let Jen go out for some revelry.
& while we're showing off our kids, My 9 year old, Claire, got to a saddle at 15,035 feet on her own power last year ( when she was eight).
Congrates
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I fell on the same screw about 20 times on top rope bouldering around on a wildly overhanging serac just above powder snow once. The screw was fine. I also took about a 5 footer on an abakalov thread once, just to see if it would hold...it did.
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you wanna suck O's as well?
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Sobo; Yes, that is refered to as the NW ridge...again most people around here call it "Dragon's back" It is a fun climb any time of year. It is a little tricky finding the start of it though...sounds like you did everything right.
Wazzu: there is acctually less snow now than when you were here a week ago. As far as the N face. There is acctually 2 couliors and a head wall that splits them. You can see the right one and the head wall. The left is hidden from view behind Dragon's back in you photo. All have been climbed and a friend of mine has skied the couliors. All of the above not withstanding; the snow field right of the summit with the step about 1/3 of the way up is a plum I want to pick. The crux is at the ridge and hard to see in your photo. To me it is the best line on the mountain in terms of severity and as far as I know is un-climbed. If you want to give it a go with me let me know, But you'll have to retract the bastard comment.
Or do it yourself; I lay no claim.
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Jeez you guys,
Let's see, I haven't climbed in the Eagle Cap since this morning. Last week we had a chinook wind- most of the ice melted. The snow is still rock skiing below 6500 ft- but good above.
Yes, the North face has been climbed ( I soloed it 2 years ago, and that was not a first ascent...It's trivial (AI2)). The North Ridge ( called Dragon's Back by locals) has been climbed countless times, winter and summer. The left sky line in the photo is the yak route.
The right skiline of the photo is a much more fun climb than the North ridge.
Sorry, don't mean to be an ass. I will give anyone info or beta for any climb in the Wallowas anytime they ask me.
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mattp said:
As a concerned citizen, I feel compelled to add: DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME, FOLKS!!!!
(I don't know about you guys, but I'm going to see if I can avoid ever taking a fall with crampons on my feet and tools in both hands -- and I don't think I want to climb with RBW, either, because I don't want to be around when he tries it for time #3. The way I see it, RBW's tried twice to hurt himself - and the third time's the charm, right?)
Matt, I respect your opinins a great deal, but I'll have to be the contrarian this time around...I'll Climb with RBW any day of the week; I just prefer to lead.
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I don't carry them very often. But when I carry pins for potentially loose alpine rock this is the order of value ( weight over usebility)
Baby angles
Short LA's
KB's
Medium angles
Long La's
just my 2 cents
PDX Kegger
in Events Forum
Posted
Pete; Why you gotta go & do me like that.
I promise, I'll never screwup like I did at the smith rope-up again.
Save the plaid pantry for Fritos and snickers....If we drain the keg early; I'll grab another keg!